pipes vibrating and making a noise but boiler is off

[LOLLA]

....The lid of the tank was recently changed because it was cracked and was leaning on the ball. Any possible links between the two...

It could well be..

You mentioned before that this only happened after the lid was replaced and that the overflow was running before.
If the valve was never being allowed to close then the noise would not have occurred.

OK a few stock questions

1/ When did you last hear the noise?
2/ How often does it happen?
3/ Are there any re occurring times that this happens?
4/ Is there anything that you do before you notice the noise? eg put on washing machine/ dishwasher/ shower bath etc?
5/ Do you have decent tea and bacon?

1. know this may sound crazy noise heard last on 29th of January. Engineer visited and flushed the whole system with sentinel. Changed our bedroom valve as he said this was the cause of noise . The reason he gave was that the valve had fallen into the pipes and was making the noise.

2. before system flush,it used to happen everyday

3. as soon as the radiator is turned on. its sounds as if my neighbour is drilling.

4. as soon as the central heating comes on but we haven't heard it since our system was flushed until last night.

5. came on tonite which was really strange because we have had to turn off the boiler because it kept switching itself to reset and we were not sure why so we switched it off for safety. The point here is there is no central heating so why the noise.

6. no tea but you are welcome to a big mug of mamajuana, a local drink from Dominica. can put you to sleep in seconds...

 

[LOLLA]

OK .. before the boiler locks out and you need to reset it.. do you hear any banging noises?

not from the boiler. Noise is only from the three pipes going from the green tank in the airing cupboard to the loft.

When you reset the boiler, it goes straight back to reset over and over again so we got fed up and just turned it off at the mains... and bought ourselves an oil radiator instead.. saying that though ,the boiler has been locking itself out since the flushing of the system....

 

[Andy165]

Could be a g.g.g.g.ghost! Sorrry have had enough now , it,s goodnight , god bless, and may your god go with you Red red wine , goes to myhead...................ZZZZZZZZZZZ

 

[Corgigrouch]

Just one more question...Do you have a thermostatic valve on every radiator is there one radiator wit just "Normal" valves on?

 

[Aquaheat]

OK we could be getting somwhere.

The boiler fault could point to the fact that there is an airlock in the system, probably close to the boiler, that is causing the boiler to overheat and lock out after a few seconds. This would fit with the fact that the system has been drained and refilled.

Now...

The F+E ball valve gets very little "major" use. If the lid was pressing down on the valve then no resonance would have been heard. Now that the valve has been repaired you may have brought that fault to light.

This could also then link in with the theory of the airlock in the system. Even though the boiler is off air may have shifted in the system and vented itself causing water to enter from the tank and the valve being operated.

To test... if you have safe access to the loft, push the valve down and release the valve very slowly to mimic the natural way the valve closes. Do this a few times to see if you can generate the noise.

 

[Aquaheat]

Just one more question...Do you have a thermostatic valve on every radiator is there one radiator wit just "Normal" valves on?

You still here aswell!!?? lol

What do you think to the above theory?

 

[Corgigrouch]

That is prettymuch the theory that I had come to.. A couple of options on the airlock idea is that If they had TRVs on all radiators and they all closed down as it got warmer, then this too could cause the boiler to lock out on overheat, especially if the restricting valve on the water cylinder had been messed with and was closed to far down and there was no other bypass in the system, if the water level in the F&E tank is set too high the expansion of the water could cause it to overflow and as it contracts is then being topped up via the float valve which could well be resonating

I guess it is down to a guy on the ground now who can grab the pipes, feel the valves and check to see whats going on.

Well that's it now I'm off for some kip...TTFN

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Here's my take on it but this assumes a situation where there are TRV's on all rads OR situations occur where all rads are effectively turned off.

System got flushed and by-pass was closed and not re-opened. When TRV's all closed water was circulating through old diverter valve which was then changed.
Now the water is being forced through the new diverter when in heating only position it is resonating.

Solution:- Open the by-pass a turn or two in accordance with the instructions

3.3 Bypass
A bypass is unnecessary, unless thermostatic radiator valves
are fitted to all radiators.
If required, a 15mm bypass must be fitted at least 2m away from
the boiler and adjusted such that there is a temperature difference
no greater than 20ºC between flow and return.

I would add to that> If all rad/s without a TRV are closed then that would be equivalent to a situation where a by-pass is required.

 

[doitall]

Has anyone thought the new valve could be wired up wrong.

Could be the pump switches on in the off position and off in the on mode

CCs one step forward

 

[LOLLA]

Just one more question...Do you have a thermostatic valve on every radiator is there one radiator wit just "Normal" valves on?

i am not sure what thermostatic valves mean but the valves we have on our radiators are the ones where you can adjust it by turning from 1, 2, or 4 etc

 

[LOLLA]

OK we could be getting somwhere.

The boiler fault could point to the fact that there is an airlock in the system, probably close to the boiler, that is causing the boiler to overheat and lock out after a few seconds. This would fit with the fact that the system has been drained and refilled.

Now...

The F+E ball valve gets very little "major" use. If the lid was pressing down on the valve then no resonance would have been heard. Now that the valve has been repaired you may have brought that fault to light.

This could also then link in with the theory of the airlock in the system. Even though the boiler is off air may have shifted in the system and vented itself causing water to enter from the tank and the valve being operated.

To test... if you have safe access to the loft, push the valve down and release the valve very slowly to mimic the natural way the valve closes. Do this a few times to see if you can generate the noise.

...will do and let yo know what happens..

 

[D_Hailsham]

i am not sure what thermostatic valves mean but the valves we have on our radiators are the ones where you can adjust it by turning from 1, 2, or 4 etc

A thermostatic valve looks something like this:

 

[doitall]

...This noise started a few weeks ago after our 3 port valve was changed by an incompetent engineer from Glowarn. Our overflow was leaking heavily soon after but a new plumber found that it was because the F & E tank lid was faulty and was leaning on the ball valve causing it to overflow The lid was changed and the leak stopped. Funny enough the noise remains the same.

Can you hear the pump running when the boiler is turned off

 

[baxi 198]

Hi there
I had a problem with noisy pipes and found water dripping in to the header tank making the the ball valve bounce causing vibration in the pipes which were not secure I change the ball valve to a bottom feed silent type and the problem stopped.

 

[LOLLA]

...This noise started a few weeks ago after our 3 port valve was changed by an incompetent engineer from Glowarn. Our overflow was leaking heavily soon after but a new plumber found that it was because the F & E tank lid was faulty and was leaning on the ball valve causing it to overflow The lid was changed and the leak stopped. Funny enough the noise remains the same.

Can you hear the pump running when the boiler is turned off

no.