plastering a cellar/basement

[Tom.]

Fair enough Legs, I'm just a proponent of old fashioned building techniques, they've worked well for the last 500 years or so. When you see people injecting DPC into stone walls, you have to question everything you see.

I understand your comments about lime mortar in a cellar, but I've seen many cellars that don't have any render whatsoever, with quite dry walls. Wouldn't your assertion that lime mortared walls be constantly damp be wrong if adequate ventilation were used?

Understand that I'm not picking a fight, but I am interested in the discussion, I'm here to learn like everyone else

 

[legs-akimbo]

I dont mean to sound high handed Tom I am just trying to stress a point that the use of lime has to be considered on the merits of the job in hand and is not by any means allways beneficial in every circumstance.
I too appreciate as much as anyone traditional building practices but there is a propensity on this forum for advocating lime mortars for any and every eventuality by people with no experience or understanding of their properties, other than it was used traditionally!!
I would consider that any cellar conversion would have to be considered on the merits of which methods were to be employed and a lime mortar in relatively dry conditions may be an option, but an expensive mistake to make if you were to get it wrong.
To my way of thinking to err on the safe side, if its below ground then tanking is the most efficient method and has worked for me countless times with absolutely no adverse effects,In theese circumstances I will not touch a job if the customer will not give me free reign to work to practices that are proven,
You may find this intresting Tom www.traditionallime.com

 

[-dj-]

yes, legs does it again, with the correct reply,
i don't tend to comment too much on this site because of contradiction.
there is a right way, and a wrong way, but i can't be a***d trying to explain just to be put down by an amature who knows nothing...
LISTEN TO "LEGS AKIMBO". he knows his job....


dj.

 

[nstreet]

I saw a programme once where they used this product. http://www.newton-membranes.co.uk/System500.htm You turn the cellar ito a fish tank but in reverse. May be worth investigating.

 

[johnhiggins]

so which method do i use

john

 

[legs-akimbo]

Cheers d.j. me old mucker, hey did you get the dry wall gun sorted ..which did you go for in the end? happy new year m8
This is the type of product which nstreet suggests would suit any basement though it looks an expensive one. Try sika product range ,they probably have a web site or get a good experienced plasterer to quote you for tanking, (the method I prefer)

 

[-dj-]

havn't got one yet legs, but the money is burning a hole, i'm swaying towards the first one on this link.

http://www.trustedtradesmen.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=529&PN=1

i'm still cut between the two, but, i think my choice won't snag.
surely anything is better than feed with one hand, screw with the other!!!


dj.

 

[legs-akimbo]

d.j did you read my reply to your question in the plastering forum onA.T.T,?

 

[-dj-]

d.j did you read my reply to your question in the plastering forum onA.T.T,?

yes i did, but i can't reply since my acc was suspended.
i currently use my bosch psb 24v, with a magnetic holder but i find loading with the left and screwing with the right a major pain on ceilings.
hence i really would like a self loader, but i'm stuck between the two, and there ain't many plasterers on these forums as you know.

 

[johnhiggins]

so listen chaps dont mean to be a nuisance but what am i doing in my cellar.
plastering or battening and plating

its just an average cellar/basement nothing spectacular.the kids are going to use it when friends are round etc


john

 

[legs-akimbo]

sorry John, we got a little way layed there
Get yourself a good recomended plastererer who is familiar with tanking solutions and check out a merchants who will carry a Sika products catalouge range or their web site and you will find something to suit.
I will try and lift a detailed spec for rendered tanking from another forum if I can. One of the cheapest products I have found that is very good value and would maybe suit your needs can be found in any merchants only I can not recall the name but I will get it for you. Whatever you decide DO NOT batten out your basement with mechanical fixings directly through timbers into the walls this is a recipe for disaster.
If you have the space you could introduce a stud frame that is not in contact with the walls after sealing them effectively and insulate board and skim (insulated backing on plasterboards).
Just as important will be to have a damp proof membrane to the floor .....1000 gauge polythene to even a new concrete or screed finished floor, assuming you have the headroom. If you do and the existing sub floor is concrete you may want to introduce a layer of floor insulation say 60mm Jabberlite which will require a 75mm finished screed as this is classed as an unbonded surface ( as opposed to directly onto concrete being bonded) This info is just basic off the top of my head and probably doesent cover all and everything but will give some indication as to what you need.

 

[legs-akimbo]

d.j there is a world of difference between a cordless drill and a dry wall gun it would drive me up the wall using a cordless on ceilings but with the dry waller I fly through them, b.t.w. do you find you get tiny splinters in the two fingers from the screws when you hold and screw using both hands bloody painfull and so small you cant get them out.?

 

[johnhiggins]

thanks legs.
i do not have the height for the floor option

thanks for replying

john

 

[martinemj]

(plasterer for 17yrs)
ok,i used to use the thoroseal slurry product which was at first very good in this situation
but in the last couple of years i have been using a product made by delta membranes
it is a sheet of thermoplastic which is fixed to the walls with special plugs,the moisture cannotpass through ,depending on which type you use you either plaster on it direct or build a stud wall allowing for a gap of say 4-5" you can use on walls and floors without join if you like.

in the gap between material and new stud wall you can have a drainage channel which runs to a sump with a pump that works periodically depending on the amount of moisture

this material has been used in tunnels all around the world for years.

no i dont work for them but have been converted..

ps.... dont plaster or dryline a damp basement as it will come through both
quickly

 

[chappers]

cellars are generally cold damp places. Sealing that damp out won't do you any favours, which is why I suggest using traditional materials only. Think of it this way - when you've had a shower, would you dry yourself with a polythene bag, or a towel?

/rant

What twaddle so you want to convert your cellar to a living space.You just put up with the fact that all the walls are damp do you.
The towel analogy is not anywhere near correct as the last thing you want is for your walls to soak up water(we all know what happens to plaster when its wet).
The polythene analogy should be that if in a shower you would want a polyethene towel as this will prevent you getting wet in the first place.
Basically there are two ways to deal with the ingress of water into a basement
a)construct a waterproof skin (there are almost as many systems for doing this as there are leaves on a tree)to keep the water ot.
b) let the water in through the walls and construct false walls in front the water is then guided down a series of gullie to a sump from where it is pumped out