Plastering or plasterboard

[chrisbond]

Two questions really, but on the same topic.

1. I have taken by lounge/diner beck to brick getting rid of the nasty black dusty rubbish that was plastered over, now am I best to replaster or put up plasterboard? All walls are internal except the bay window, the other external wall is 90% patio door adn lintel.

2. I have artex ceilings from about 1980, is it worth taking them down and starting again or plastering over them? They look in good nick without any cracking apparent.

3. Oh and finally, on a slightly different subject I'm changing from a traditional fireplace to a hole-in0the wall which will need some bricking up from the ground to about 350mm - would a plasterer do this or do I just do it myself and let them hide the bad job I'll have done?

 

[Chukka63]

the walla are a matter of personal choise. i personally hate drywall.

the ceilings can be plastered flat.

you would have to ask the plasterer if he's willing/able to brick up the wall.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It's personal choice, but the opinion is that plastered walls are more durable and robust than that of plasterboard.
So plaster the walls.

Artex from the 1980s could contain asbestos, so further investigation may be need if you are considering removal. Call your local council.
If it doesn't there's a product called x-tex that can remove it, or sand/scrape it down, if high peaks and it can then be plastered.

You can brick up the base of the fireplace yourself, just make sure it's all sealed up and no gaps if it's a gas fire.
I'd suggest you find the fire you wish to install and read the manual for the recommended hole size, try and keep to the minimum hole size required. Nice tight fit.

 

[Richard C]

Obviously going to be a little more expensive but I agree with the others, a base coat & plaster skim is always going to be far superior to D&D/skim.

I always used to remove Artex (steamer) but I now only do it if in poor condition & prefer to plaster over it; if yours is sound, with no cracks, I’d leave it there. With stipple, I knock the peaks off with a flat bladed shovel PVA seal, leave 24 hours to dry (or at least overnight), lightly PVA again then skim. On deep patterns, it’s best to put up an initial coat of Bonding plaster & then skim over that. DO NOT under any circumstances sand it; if it does contain asbestos you will contaminate your house with low grade asbestos dust.

If you do decide to strip it, it’s considered low risk so you won’t need a license but you shouldn’t dispose of it in land fill.

Re the fireplace, it rather depends on the plasterer! No reason why you should not brick it up yourself though but keep the bricks flat & level with the rest of the wall; your not opening up the hole higher up are you?

What type of fire are you installing, just decorative or a proper burner? Gypsum plaster (base & finish) will not stand much more than 50 degrees C, it will crack & fall off, if it’s anything other than a decorative fire, you need to use heat resistant materials. Also be aware that installing a stove/liner etc. it subject to Building Regulations requiring a Building Notice submission unless you use a registered installer!

 

[chrisbond]

Thanks for the replies, nice to see some consistency! The ceilings are plasterboard so definitely just a skim over the top looks to be the favourite

As for the walls getting quotes for plaster and plasterboard and skim, the archway between the two rooms is plasterboard so that'll just be a skim anyway. And I assume plasterboard and curved bay windows won't work anyway!

 

[Alastairreid]

I assume plasterboard and curved bay windows won't work anyway!

course it would, if you knew how ...........easier and better to plaster though.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I assume plasterboard and curved bay windows won't work anyway!

GTEC Contour Boards
http://www.lafargeplasterboard.co.u...GTEC+Board/Standard+Boards/GTEC+Contour+Board

 

[1john]

may be a good idea to get your wiring checked before you cover the walls.