What size swa would i need to buy?
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On the assumption that you will have a 40 amp supply via main board then 6mm, but as mentioned a 10mm gives much better scope.
im also picking up the sockets and light fittings tomorrow,do these need to be metal clad? or will plastic backboxes etc be ok?
i will have 5 double sockets in the garage
2 light fittings, 2 x switches.
Top job would be conduit drops to metal boxes, horizontal wiring at height could be clipped on a batten.
The installation should be suitable for the environment, if its going to be a workshop then it needs to be up to the job.
Plastic conduit and fittings may be acceptable- only you know
do the cable need protection in form of metal conduit or can these be simply clipped to the walls? and through roof joists where required? .
See above
also picking up the consumer unit for garage including mcb's
what would be the best set up for the 5 x sockets, 2 x lights i will be using? if sockets are on a radial the length will be no more than 7 metres to the furthest socket(furthest from consumer unit). .
4mm TE socket radial or 2.5mm ring supports 32amp
1.0mm will support 6 amp lights
So at full tilt you might draw 38amp protected by a 40amp mcb at the main board.
also the consumer unit in the house which supply is coming from is sector, what size MCB should i buy ready for this end?.
See above
will i need anything else or will sparky simply terminate swa cable into both consumer units without the need to connect any t+e ?.
The swa HAS to be earthed on the armour, banjos or piranha nuts mostly via a metal earthed box adjacent to the board.
Could spec a metal clad for the garage, but not sure about small CU sizes in metal.
is 2.5mm cable sufficient for sockets and 1.5mm cable sufficent for lighting?.
See answers two back
many thanks for your help just need these few answers in order for me to supply the materials and run the cables ready for sparky to come in either end of week or monday to do connections and testing.
Earthing has NOT be discussed
RCD protection has NOT been discussed
Use of garage has not been discusses
Ancillary power requirements such as security lights, a jacuzzi and pond pump has not been discussed.
I don't dispute your claims, but what you are intending to get won't be cheaper, may well be wrong and doesn't consider the whole 'design' and 'installation' requirements.
Take the swa, how do you know the best route ? Will 6mm SWA feed through the old ug route, or will you go catenary (air) or new ug and down 30" ? The cost is on length which you don't know due to not knowing the route.
You know nothing of the rcd requirements, and haven't mentioned anything about the main board. Does it have the correct 25mm supply tails the 16mm MET, the earth bonding for the gas and water in 10mm.
If the main board isn't suitable it might be better to take the swa direct to the mains in feed and treat the garage as a seperate CU rather than a sub board.
The above was a bit of an attempt to justify why it's NOT a simple diy job.
Stick with the bits you know. Get some cable, do the garage carcass / 1st fix and hope that's good enough for the spark to accept.
I'd suggest switches and sockets (at a height that avoids car doors)
in plastic with plastic conduit drops from the ceiling line.
If required fix wood runners for horiz cable to clip to.