Yeah it's vented
Plinth heater woes
- Thread starter Tomo72
- Start date
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Its quite possible the blockage is close to the heater.
You might be able to poke the blockage out with one of the drain cleaners, there are two types, one a softer coiled one and the other more rigid type made from a metal strip of about 6 mm x 1 mm. The latter is better.
Without either type a piece of spiral curtain wire as used for net curtains can be tried.
But if trying a poke be prepared to close it off should the flow recommence!
Tony
You might be able to poke the blockage out with one of the drain cleaners, there are two types, one a softer coiled one and the other more rigid type made from a metal strip of about 6 mm x 1 mm. The latter is better.
Without either type a piece of spiral curtain wire as used for net curtains can be tried.
But if trying a poke be prepared to close it off should the flow recommence!
Tony
Well it's the flexi, totally blocked with large rust fragments/rusty water. The only way I'll even stand a chance of unblocking it is to totally drain down the CH and remove the flexi connector. I'll have to give that a go some time. I just hope none of the copper pipe is also blocked
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There are always flexis on Kickspace heaters, you could never get the plinth back otherwise. And it is always the hoses that block.
The manufacturer usually wants the isolation valves between the rigid pipework and the flexi.
Nb: the isol valves should be full bore 15mm, not the restrictive type.
The manufacturer usually wants the isolation valves between the rigid pipework and the flexi.
Nb: the isol valves should be full bore 15mm, not the restrictive type.
I told you in my previous quote what you need to do. If you do manage to unblock them they will block up again. Rapidly.
As Simon says, there is normally an isolating valve on the system side of the flexis.
You found one flexi blocked.
But why did you not check/test the return flexi?
Tony
It's the return flexi that's blocked, the feed is fine
The only option you have will be to bung the F&E tank in the loft and then remove the blocked flexi and replace.
Ideally you would use a full bore ISO, as Simon says, and then use a large bore flexi pipe to reduce the risk of it blocking again. If you use a flexi with a built in ISO, chances are it will be small bore increasing the risk of it blocking again.
Ideally you would use a full bore ISO, as Simon says, and then use a large bore flexi pipe to reduce the risk of it blocking again. If you use a flexi with a built in ISO, chances are it will be small bore increasing the risk of it blocking again.
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Temperatures to which the flexi can withstand being key..
Flexis used for LTHW/heating services are more expensive.
As Simon says, there is normally an isolating valve on the system side of the flexi.
But why did you not try to unblock the the return flexi?
Tony
I've tried to unblock it in situ but failed. Next step (probably over the weekend when I have more time) is to plug the F&E and remove the flexi and attempt to unblock it without damaging the rubber inner. I was just looking for a replacement in case I can't unblock it or do damage it
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