The necked track doe not protect the capacitor. If that explodes then aluminium foil and other debris will be all over the place in side the casing and over the PCB. The risk of this foil bridging from 230 volt side to 5 volt side is very high.
Are you postulating a 'vanishingly improbable' combination of faults, or what? If the primary problem were the exploding of C1, then no 'fuses' (whether real fuses, destructing resistors or necked tracks) would operate until after the damage had been done. On the other hand, if the primary problem causing R1 to destruct were something other than the explosion of C1, then, as I said, it would surely be incredibly improbable that C1 would simultaneously explode, wouldn't it?

Kind Regards, John
 
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So you don't understand what you are doing and have destroyed what was probably a perfectly safe power supply as a result!
If, over the years and decades, I had not 'destructively examined' many things which were probably perfectly functional (in order to hopefully rectify a 'lack of understanding'), I would undoubtedly have far less knowledge than I now do!

Kind Regards, John
 
It would be difficult ( expensive ) to have fusing that would disconnect as soon as the capacitor started to dis-integrate. It is however relatively easy to include fusie that will dis-connect on the fault current that aluminium foil would be likely to create after the capacitor had exploded.

The bottom line is the manufactures of these devices are interested only in getting the function ( 5 volt supply ) at the lowest possible manufacturing cost and failure modes are given nothing more than lip service,.
 
It would be difficult ( expensive ) to have fusing that would disconnect as soon as the capacitor started to dis-integrate.
Indeed. I would actually think 'next-to-impossible'.
It is however relatively easy to include fusie that will dis-connect on the fault current that aluminium foil would be likely to create after the capacitor had exploded.
Maybe, but the aluminium foil itself would probably go a long way to representing such a 'fuse'.

One of the ironies is that there is no safe (and practical) way of protecting against something (e.g. Al foil) resulting in a connection between LV and LV sides, since that would require violation of the required isolation!
The bottom line is the manufactures of these devices are interested only in getting the function ( 5 volt supply ) at the lowest possible manufacturing cost and failure modes are given nothing more than lip service,.
... which, in turn, is obviously a consequence of consumers desire/demand for the lowest possible retail cost. Many of the manufacturers probably do give consideration to the common failure modes (hence that 'necked' PCB track), but to cater for all conceivable modes of failure would undoubtedly result in unrealistically high costs/prices. As for 'commoness', I imagine that explosion of the capacitor is, in itself, very rare, and that in probably "99%" (certainly a very high proportion) of the few cases in which it does happen, there would be no significant 'secondary consequences' (due to 'flying foil' etc.).

Kind Regards, John
 
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If, over the years and decades, I had not 'destructively examined' many things which were probably perfectly functional (in order to hopefully rectify a 'lack of understanding'), I would undoubtedly have far less knowledge than I now do!

Well said. I had no intention of misleading or scaring others. Plus it may have been safe, but the solder joints were poor anyway just as the supply overall was cheaply made.
 
I do remember the argument many years ago when I bought a new TV. Good well known make well before China flooded the market. I got a shock from the aerial and complained to manufacturers. I was told it was permissible to leak a set figure to earth. I personally considered having a voltage at the aerial which could cause an involuntary action on the top of a ladder was undesirable it would not be the electric shock which kills but the shock when you reached the ground.
The big problem as time went on was that we ended up with multiple such units connected together - TV, VCR, satellite receiver, Freeview receiver, DVD player etc. - and the combined leakage currents are not inconsiderable.

Indeed - but, as I said, at least one (quite possibly both) of the diodes shown as ordinary diodes (D2 & D3) in your circuit diagram are probably zener diodes (which would be consistent with the polarity of both of them as shown in the circuit diagram).
Zener diodes in those locations make sense to provide the necessary reference voltages for the regulating action of the supply.

The bottom line is the manufactures of these devices are interested only in getting the function ( 5 volt supply ) at the lowest possible manufacturing cost and failure modes are given nothing more than lip service,.
Well said. I had no intention of misleading or scaring others. Plus it may have been safe, but the solder joints were poor anyway just as the supply overall was cheaply made.
Even though a 500V DC test may have revealed no sign of impending breakdown, it still looks like a very cheaply made transformer if that blue tape was the only thing separating the primary and secondary windings. But that's exactly what all this stuff is - Cheaply made, both in price and quality.

I'm generally not in favor of restrictions and believe in free trade across borders, but if we're going to have any sort of controls and import restrictions, the garbage coming out of China these days is clearly something which should be addressed (and that's just the stuff which doesn't pretend to be anything but what it is - the issue of counterfeits is a whole other story).
 
Even expensive transformers often only have the windings separated by mylar tape.
You can bet it's better quality and more care taken with construction than with that in the transformer in some $6 USB charger though.
Of course. Those who want to pay for a more expensive product bearing reputable branding are free so to do, and will usually (but not always) get a product which, at least in some senses, is 'better'. However, there seems to be a large market for "as cheap as possible" products and those who make that choice will 'get what they pay for'.

Kind Regards, John
 
Split bobbin is the way to go.....

Lightweight-Horizontal-Split-Bobbin-PCB-Power-Transformer.jpg


Mains in one half, ELV in the other half. And this one is made in China so they can do it.

There has to be an adequate gap / insulation between the windings and the metal of the core. No over filling the bobbin.

And a twin bobbin transformer is even better as regards safety in failure mode. Also if the metal core is earthed then there is almost zero capacitive coupling between mains and ELV output

normal_transformer.jpg
 
I lost my battery charger for camera and needed a replacement. Pentax charger £70 and alternative £5 I like I am sure many others went for the cheap option. At £5 v £10 may be I would buy genuine but for £70 I could buy a camera never mind a battery charger.

Year ago the same happened with vehicle alternators the spurious parts were far cheaper than genuine, then one of the major manufacturers said this is daft we are losing custom so they over night dropped their prices to in fact lass than the spurious versions every one started using genuine parts and the reputation of Butec alternators went up as with genuine parts there were less failures.

Once one finds a genuine part which is non compliant one asks what is the point. Standard UK plug has dimensions which prevent fingers touching live pins or putting them in the socket incorrectly. When the genuine manufacturers of phone chargers make them smaller than the standards permit then one has to ask what is the point in buying the genuine item? The genuine often still made in China and still dubious quality but twice the price or more.

So I will continue to buy spurious parts but take some precautions, I always plug chargers into an extension lead so fused to 13A not 32A.
 
I lost my battery charger for camera and needed a replacement. Pentax charger £70 and alternative £5 I like I am sure many others went for the cheap option. At £5 v £10 may be I would buy genuine but for £70 I could buy a camera never mind a battery charger.
That's often a major part of the problem. The branded product from a reputable manufacturer will undoubtedly be 'better', but not "14 times better". If these manufacturers were less greedy in terms of profit margins, the incentive to buy "cheap (and possibly dangerous) tat" would undoubtedly decrease appreciably. Just like you, I would probably pay £10 (or maybe even £15-£20) rather than £5, but not £70.

Kind Regards, John
 

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