Potterton profile 40 mated to a sealed system

???? a what ?....the sytem has a tank overheat/over pressure valve....a 'not to scold yr self' mixing valve, the tank expansion vessel also has an over pressure safety valve. The filling loop for the boiler/expansion vessel also has a safety valve. and the heating control pack has one mid port valve....do I have to remove this and fit two separate single port valves ? or am I totally lost ?
 
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Err... the boiler was left as I found it with no modifications other than fitting the filling loop and expansion vessel. I simply took the feed and return from the old tank which was too small (big family with lots of teenage girls) and fitted them to a replacement larger tank. Other than the boiler insides, the rest of the valves, rads, pipes, tanks, etc etc was fitted as new and flushed etc....I was going to call out an engineer for the boiler service once we decided if the old boiler (11 yrs ish old) would be up to the job and also not need replacing.
 
There's a famous picture of half a French school. The half which isn't there any more had an unvented hot water storage system in it. It went wrong, and now there are lots of little bits of French school....

They are violently dangerous things. The building control department has to be informed BEFORE they are put in. Any installer has to have done the course and got the certificate to do it. Only Approved systems can be installed. Yours ISN'T and the installer clearly HADN'T!

Just as well it isn't getting hot then, innit?
 
A Profile has got pretty darned big waterways so it's unlikely that its so blocked that circulation is tooo bad. Check the daft things like the pump valves are open properly. Get a corgi to go in there and check out the thermostats, and cast an eye over the rest of it.. It wouldn't be the first boiler to have a thermostat dangling over the flames..
 
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NOW you tell me....hope it don't go bang....I've got 20 15ltr sucuba cylinders filled with oxygen and filled to 350bar sat near it !....rekon the water will put the fire out ?

Seriously...I think the installer has all the papers...I just took the small tank out and put a larger one in....I build 350bar plus explosive gas systems so I think I have the ability to tighten 4 compression fittings...unless of course you know a real problem I could cause doing that...in which case...plese say !...it is getting hot, and working fine but for the boiler tripping out...no noises, creaks, squeaks or leaks....just the boiler..the guy who fitted the rest of the system says simply ' I'll sell you a new one'.....ok I'll buy it, if I HAVE to...but if it wassomething simple like turning a control...under guidence....I would like to save myself £500.
 
Oooh your job sounds like much more fun than ours!
Stick with the Profile. Not wildly efficient but if it ain't broke... Though 13kW is pretty small. The heatng coil on a Megaflo is around 25kW!

Seriously if you just have a "Y" valve then you should have a "I" (?) 2 port one as well as a safety matter for the cylinder. What cylinder did you put in?? If its bigger than the old it will need a bigger pressure vessel. And it should have taken more than 4 compression fittings.....

We are talking of a mains pressure hot water cylinder? :confused:
 
You have to have a valve which is fail safe - ie if the boiler sticks on you have to be sure it can't just keep heating the HW. A sealed boiler could keep going to 150 degrees C, without boiling, at 3 bar. So the uvhwss could get there too.
When it bursts, or the prv opens, ALL the entire volume of water boils - expanding in volume by x1600.

Bit noisy.


3port valves usually fail open to heating the HW.
 
Thanks for the help guys....guess I should've done the 'cures' one at a time but it's sunday night....anyway, have turned the pump speed up and dropped the temp on the tanks built in thermostat and bingo...(well so far at least) the tank now cuts out the boiler without the reset tripping.
It was a 'Smartline E210' tank and comes with all the valves, vessels and everything in the box.....even the bits of pipe are labled 'A', 'B', 'C' etc.

There are two fittings on the top (in=cold, out=hot) and the feed and return heating loop fittings on the side......obviously there is quite a lot of safety & drain tundish vales and pipework as well, but the tank fitted was the same make and model, just the 130 ltr instead of the 210 ltr. The central heating expansion etc was for a 12 rad system....and apart from the one rad in the bathroom, they haven't yet been used (isolated) awaiting the decorating.

There is only one mid port valve though....I will speak to the engineer about the other one to be fitted for safety....could you explain a little so I could pass on the info to him...miserable git he is !

I changed the tank myself cos he said he wouldn't do it....needless to say, now I've done it myself he's not the most helpful of gents.

Thanks for the info on the boiler...it heats fine....from dead cold to tripping out in about 1.5/1.25 hrs....when the button stays up !


And one thing with my job....when it does go bang....there are no witnesses !!!!

Once again guys, thanks for your help......
 
SO it takes the boiler all that time to heat your water. I 'd say it's too small, it surely won't cope with all those rads even without the HW?

The need for valves etc etc should all be in the instructions - look at the wiring diagrams. I explained the requirement a bit above. The Normative Document is Building Reg G3.
 
All the instructions were very comprehensive, indeed showing explainations and diagrams for the 1991 G3 regs....but no mention of needing the valve you mentioned.....but it sounds more than correct and reasonable to me, and I will get one put in (wired in parallel with the existing valve ?....or can a wiring diagram be sourced ? ). One problem was that the heating control pack came with tank thermostat, but the tank already has a built in one...the control guys said 'just fit ours' and the tank guys said 'get the wiring from the control guys - don't use theirs or you will invalidate the tank warrenty'....nightmare....plumber made me get in an electrician for those three wires.

The time it takes to heat is from dead cold.....my number two daughter has just finished a shower and the boiler has replaced the used hot water before she was dried...so if it carries on that way and needs not be replaced (this year) I'm happy....in fact we only have 5 small radiators....I got the 12 system forward planing for next years rads upstairs project.

Thanks for your help....it's my first visit to this site...excellent....I know that I shouldn't have upset the plumber, but when I told him there wasn't enough hot water for the family, his only answer was to fit a bigger boiler....I'd just spent an unexpected fortune....I will replace the boiler when I have the money, next year...this year I've been spent out, and I can't really have it done mid winter...


All the best.
 
Might be due to diverter/ mid position valve sticking to allow uncontrolled heat input into the cylinder.

If a diverter is fitted, two port valve still has to be fitted in HW zone. That is what I was told when I did my UV ticket
 

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