nickso";p="1826532 said:i could continue to say you have no idea what you are on about but you know that already.
Oh dear, you are a bad loser aren`t you.
nickso";p="1826532 said:i could continue to say you have no idea what you are on about but you know that already.
Oh dear, you are a bad loser aren`t you.
Hi Geof!
Hi Tony, just thought I'd pop in and do some poking with a pointy stick
Spraggo, nowbody has bsuggested that a DIYer cannot remove the white cover.
However that does not expose any of the fan. To see that the outer combustion chamber which provides the room seal needs to be removed which is a no-no for a DIyer.
Not that I've ever seen the insides of any boiler other than my own, of course, doesn't it sit on top of the HE and is exposed when you remove the outer cover?
Tony
The big sealed bit is called the combustion chamber cover, though the CC itself is really the smaller one inside with the flames inside! Semantics!
The big bit is the one DIY chappies shouldn't take off.
I wonder if the replacement circuit board was one for a puma P or a Puma E ? IF there's a number of components not fitted to the lower left part of the board, you have the wrong one.
The P board just has an absent capacitor, fairly centrally, about 10mm diameter.
spraggo";p="1826570 said:i could continue to say you have no idea what you are on about but you know that already.
Oh dear, you are a bad loser aren`t you.
not at all, i haven't lost anything.
Hi Chris
Not necessarily so, on the later pcbs the E has an extra bit og circuitry an dlacks the 100uF (?) cap in the middle of the board, for the PP it is the opposite, ... However, on the older pcbs the only difference is link LK1 which is there on the pp boards and absent for the E boards. It is there to drive the fan at low speed. I've seen a number of pcbs with incorrect labelling, the only way you can be really sure is by looking for LK1
Only your marbles nickso.
Only your marbles nickso.
least i had some to start with.
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