Potterton Suprima 60 Red Light on Timer

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12 May 2012
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Location
Shropshire
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United Kingdom
Ok, let me start from the beginning..

The hot water heats up between 6-7am.

Moved into a house about 6 months ago, and yesterday morning heard a large banging news twice near the pump and pipes knocking.

Went downstars and saw a red light on the Supreme 60, Hit reset and thought nothing of it.

The same happened this morning. So I tried putting the heating on, and there was no problem. The house heated up fine.

Then I tried the water again, and it the it wouldn't turn on. Only an amber light would come on. Please note there is no problem when turning heating on and off at will.

I then noticed the Honeywell Theromostat. I turned this all the way to the left and the water then turned on OK. For about 20 mins, then the amber light returned.

Can anyone tell me if the problems are related (boiler and thermostat), and to what number the thermostat should be set at (which number should be at the top). There is no dial telling me which number its selected. Please see the pictures.

Many thanks for any help and answers. Really neeed it.

 
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The frost stat (right picture) should be set so the arrow on 5 is pointing straight up, ie. where 17/18 is at the moment.

The pipe stat (left pic) should be set to 20. in the pic it is pointing to about 40.

The frost stat turns the boiler ON if the air temperature drops below 5C and the pipe stat turns the boiler OFF when the water temperature gets above 20C.
 
thank you for the reply. I have now changed it.

Do you think the problem is related at all to the Red light on the boiler and loud knockin near the tank and buzz from the red pump?

It seems to only happen when it is timer early morning.
 
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The second one, Please see pictures I've just taken (sorry they are dark, no light in that part of the house)..

This is based right next to the pump where the majority of noise is coming
from..

 
With the frost stat set so high the temperature does not have to drop very much to bring the boiler on, there is probably no bypass fitted so the water has no where to go so the boiler overheats, the problem with the hot water is probably a duff microswitch in the hot water 2 port valve.
 
The frost stat has been changed to what D_Hailsham mentioned above and no problems so far.

Regarding the 2 port valve, it will be easier to just replace that?

Thanks again for all the help. Much appreciated.
 
just replace the head, the honeywell one has two screws and the other blue one (not sure what make it is ) probably unclips so you dont need to drain the system for either valve .
 
Just tested it all again, this time I found a leak at this valve (see picture)..

Do you think this is a knock on effect of the problem of the 2 port valve? or the cause of the problem?

I guess It just needs tightening?

 
Which ever one is heating the hot water cylinder, thats the only one you need to change.
 
That would be the honeywell one. The blue one does not go towards the water tank.

New development, when putting the water on to test, it also is putting the central heating on. Would it be the same problem?
 
Each time I check the water now, the radiators also get warm, Upstairs very warm.

This does not happen the other way around - as in when I put the heating on the water gets hot.

Does this mean the other valve (blue one) is the cause of the problem, and needs replacing?
 

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