Potterton Suprima tripping out
- Thread starter RobD
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Has anyone any idea where to buy a re-conditioned pcb for a Suprima 40 boiler?, if so does anyone know the part number of the pcb for the 40 model or if it's the same for all the Suprima range?
The pcb on my boiler has scorch marks on the board so i guess one or mor of the components have blown.
I don't want to spend over £100 on a new one to find out something else has gone in the boiler as well.
Thanks
The pcb on my boiler has scorch marks on the board so i guess one or mor of the components have blown.
I don't want to spend over £100 on a new one to find out something else has gone in the boiler as well.
Thanks
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Gavin/Kiwi76
Yes, the spark electrode is connected to the old board, as is the earth lead. Realised I had a problem after fitting new board with all the leads provided, but no spark lead which is what you need to fire the boiler. On the replacement board I purchased, the board itself is hidden inside a plastic box (anyone know if you can get side this without destroying it?)
There is a spare spade terminal showing which I had to assume was the connection for the spark lead, as the otherwise helpful fitting instructions that came with the board didnt make this bit very clear. Anyway boiler works now. If you get a board without this lead and the earth lead, save the earth as well as this is supposed to be connected to the casing along with the others although I cant see why you cant just connect it to the main earth lead which is easier
Ian
Yes, the spark electrode is connected to the old board, as is the earth lead. Realised I had a problem after fitting new board with all the leads provided, but no spark lead which is what you need to fire the boiler. On the replacement board I purchased, the board itself is hidden inside a plastic box (anyone know if you can get side this without destroying it?)
There is a spare spade terminal showing which I had to assume was the connection for the spark lead, as the otherwise helpful fitting instructions that came with the board didnt make this bit very clear. Anyway boiler works now. If you get a board without this lead and the earth lead, save the earth as well as this is supposed to be connected to the casing along with the others although I cant see why you cant just connect it to the main earth lead which is easier
Ian
I have just read through this thread after stumbling across it, whilst searching the web for this problem. I have a Suprima 30 and am getting rather frustrated with waking up in the morning to find the boiler has tripped overnight - and no hot water!
Please could anyone advise what the best route is to rectify this problem and where to get the parts in the UK (Midlands). I have the same problem as discussed here, boiler trips out, red flashing light, press the reset button and the boiler is okay for another day or two, if I am lucky!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I do not want to get robbed with an intermitent fault.
Many thanks,
Ed.
Please could anyone advise what the best route is to rectify this problem and where to get the parts in the UK (Midlands). I have the same problem as discussed here, boiler trips out, red flashing light, press the reset button and the boiler is okay for another day or two, if I am lucky!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I do not want to get robbed with an intermitent fault.
Many thanks,
Ed.
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Like Ed - I have stumbled on this site after 2 frustrating years of various engineers unable to sort out my Suprima 30 boiler constantly tripping out. Up to this weekend I have always managed to reset it - but now it fires up only to die a few minutes later. I have read all the reports about it being a faulty pcb - one engineer did point out the faulty soldering and cleaned it up- but 2 months later here we go again - I think I have reached the point where something needs to be replaced - not being a DIY expert - but a vunerable consumer - I'm looking for advice - The going rate for a new board circa £150 - but how much should I expect to pay for someone fitting it? Also with it not actually resetting - could there be something else stopping the pilot from staying alight?
Any recommendations for a good enginer in the Lanarkshire area?
Any recommendations for a good enginer in the Lanarkshire area?
The pilot light can't stay alight, it's electronic ignition.
You will most likely have pcb 407750, this was replaced 2 years ago with pcb 5102160. Now ChrisR has only a few available at a bargain price, so get one now!. A few months ago another replacement came out. This pcb 5111603, it has wires included and is encased I believe in a plastic box, but the price is I believe aroung the £185 mark.
The problems with my original were related to the terminal posts and cracked soldering on the pcb and that might be why the wires are already attatched on the latest type, having said that 5102160 solved my problem and it took less than 20 mins to fit it.
You will most likely have pcb 407750, this was replaced 2 years ago with pcb 5102160. Now ChrisR has only a few available at a bargain price, so get one now!. A few months ago another replacement came out. This pcb 5111603, it has wires included and is encased I believe in a plastic box, but the price is I believe aroung the £185 mark.
The problems with my original were related to the terminal posts and cracked soldering on the pcb and that might be why the wires are already attatched on the latest type, having said that 5102160 solved my problem and it took less than 20 mins to fit it.
Thanks for the reply.
Do you have ChrisR's contact details and price for this part?
Also you mention that the instal takes only 20 minutes - what is involved? Is it a simple unplug the old one and plug in the new one, or is any soldering required?
Many thanks,
Ed.
Do you have ChrisR's contact details and price for this part?
Also you mention that the instal takes only 20 minutes - what is involved? Is it a simple unplug the old one and plug in the new one, or is any soldering required?
Many thanks,
Ed.
Removing the pcb involves removing about 3 pull off connectors such as wires to gas valve, wires to air pressure switch, there was I believe an earth wire and a ignition wire (a bit on the tight side if I recall correctly). You can leave the ignition wire connected and disconnect the other end, then remove it later.
With wire disconnected pcb held in place with a couple of screws, so replacement is straightforward.( No soldering)
There was a slight difference regarding the re-set button, I think its position had been moved slightly and a modified label was provided.
You can find details of Chris R by clicking anywhere his name is highlighted, The price is £60, mention me and get another £5 off.
With wire disconnected pcb held in place with a couple of screws, so replacement is straightforward.( No soldering)
There was a slight difference regarding the re-set button, I think its position had been moved slightly and a modified label was provided.
You can find details of Chris R by clicking anywhere his name is highlighted, The price is £60, mention me and get another £5 off.
Like many others I have stumbled on this forum trying to find the answer to my Potterton Suprima 40 tripping out.
The question I have however is that when it trips out I get a steady red light, unlike the flasing red light everyone else describes, other than that I have the same symtoms, the boiler cuts out after about and hour refuses to reset, after staying off for an hour or so it comes back on again.
So is a steady red light a sign of the same PCB type fault that seems to be common on the Suprima range?
It has been doing this all day . The boiler is just over 5 years old.
The question I have however is that when it trips out I get a steady red light, unlike the flasing red light everyone else describes, other than that I have the same symtoms, the boiler cuts out after about and hour refuses to reset, after staying off for an hour or so it comes back on again.
So is a steady red light a sign of the same PCB type fault that seems to be common on the Suprima range?
It has been doing this all day
. The boiler is just over 5 years old.DIYnot Local
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