Hello
I'm renovating a 1950's brick built potting shed, which has a wooden door frame and door. I've been addressing the poor condition framework and have made a new tongue & groove ledge & braced door, which I can modify slightly in width and height.
I have removed the original two verticals and one top horizontal Stops because the new door is thicker than the original door, so I plan to mount the door and then attach the original stops further back, or buy wood to use for new Stops, depending on answers to my queries.
It's great that I'm at the point where, with the right recommendations, I can get the door and frame bang on.
USEFUL SPECS:
The new door has 16mm thick T&G Redwood planks.
The original softwood stops are 16mm thick.
The softwood door frame is 812mm wide
1.
What would be the ideal width in mm of the new door for a frame that is 812mm wide? (I can trim the door as necessary.)
2.
Ideally, how much clearance in mm should the door have from the frame on the vertical hinge side (right), the vertical lock side (left) and the along the top?
3.
The original Stops are 16mm thick. Is this measurement fine to use them again, or should I buy new ones that are less or more thick and if so what ideal mm? (This will tell me how much the door should overlap the Stops)
4.
Should the door be mounted perfectly flush with the frame when closed, or slightly inset?
5.
When I have hung the door and I go to attach the original or new Stops, should I position them right up against the inside of the door or leave a gap and if so how much in mm?
6.
I will be using wood preservative on the new door and then painting it with undercoat and eggshell topcoat. I will be painting all the frame parts with Sandtex Flexi paint. As this adds a mm or so, should this need to be accounted for with the measurements above? Obviously paint on the outside of the door and the frame will be even, but what about paint on the inside of the door and on the Stops, which would technically affect the flushness of the door unless that has been considered in the measurements. Am I overthinking this?
PHOTO: shows the Stops in place but consider these removed.
It's the first time I've done this so I really appreciate anyone's time and thought on this. Then I can crack on with confidence.
G
I'm renovating a 1950's brick built potting shed, which has a wooden door frame and door. I've been addressing the poor condition framework and have made a new tongue & groove ledge & braced door, which I can modify slightly in width and height.
I have removed the original two verticals and one top horizontal Stops because the new door is thicker than the original door, so I plan to mount the door and then attach the original stops further back, or buy wood to use for new Stops, depending on answers to my queries.
It's great that I'm at the point where, with the right recommendations, I can get the door and frame bang on.
USEFUL SPECS:
The new door has 16mm thick T&G Redwood planks.
The original softwood stops are 16mm thick.
The softwood door frame is 812mm wide
1.
What would be the ideal width in mm of the new door for a frame that is 812mm wide? (I can trim the door as necessary.)
2.
Ideally, how much clearance in mm should the door have from the frame on the vertical hinge side (right), the vertical lock side (left) and the along the top?
3.
The original Stops are 16mm thick. Is this measurement fine to use them again, or should I buy new ones that are less or more thick and if so what ideal mm? (This will tell me how much the door should overlap the Stops)
4.
Should the door be mounted perfectly flush with the frame when closed, or slightly inset?
5.
When I have hung the door and I go to attach the original or new Stops, should I position them right up against the inside of the door or leave a gap and if so how much in mm?
6.
I will be using wood preservative on the new door and then painting it with undercoat and eggshell topcoat. I will be painting all the frame parts with Sandtex Flexi paint. As this adds a mm or so, should this need to be accounted for with the measurements above? Obviously paint on the outside of the door and the frame will be even, but what about paint on the inside of the door and on the Stops, which would technically affect the flushness of the door unless that has been considered in the measurements. Am I overthinking this?
PHOTO: shows the Stops in place but consider these removed.
It's the first time I've done this so I really appreciate anyone's time and thought on this. Then I can crack on with confidence.
G
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