practising soldering, technique for 90° solder ring fittings could be better?

[Berk]

Hi DIYnot forum,

I'm trying to perfect my technique for soldering Yorkshire solder rings and I was hoping some of the experienced experts might be willing to cast a critical eye over my first efforts.

I think I've been preparing these properly: cutting with a pipe slice, reaming the end, cleaning the copper with a gadget (Toolstation 49495) and polishing it with Rothenberger 180 grit strips. LA-CO flux applied (with a brush or latex gloves) evenly to the pipe and lightly inside the fitting. Using a GoSystem swirl flame torch with Map Pro gas.

Q1) 90° elbow: blobs of solder pooling at the bottom of the ring?

I've tried half a dozen of these now and except for the very first attempt I'm getting a disconcerting amount of solder running to the bottom of the vertical ring. Is this pretty typical with these fittings or should it be avoidable every time by improving technique?

I've attached a couple of photos: a couple my efforts look very similar to the first and second photo i.e. thin ring of solder showing except for the blob that was underneath. 3rd is a worse and I don't think I'd be happy fitting something like that. 4th photo is from my first attempt, I think the ring of solder that has flowed out looks quite wide all the way round, but is it acceptable? That 4th one looked like the 2nd photo until I had to reheat a spot that hadn't flowed on the opposite side, which leads me to ask...

Q2) If the solder doesn't fully flow at the first attempt?

On my first test piece I didn't notice a spot on the opposite side hadn't fully flowed, so I took the flame away for more than 30s, but probably less than 2 minutes. It doesn't really matter in this instance since it is just a test piece, but for future reference is taking the flame away for this long and then reheating the solder a terrible idea? I'm just thinking about fixing something in situ where one side is hidden - if it doesn't flow fully on the first heat would you recommend cutting out the offending joint and trying again?

Thanks!

 

[Burnerman]

If I may make a suggestion - Mapp gas is pretty hot and can catch a beginner out.....maybe a propane torch would be more suitable? Copper fittings mustn't be overheated.
I like to have a tiny brush ready dipped in the flux ready for a quick wipe if need be, and also have some solder standing by too just in case there's a problem.
If you have to reheat, don't let the fitting oxidise (quick application of flux will prevent this.)
You've done pretty well with those attempts and they'll work fine.
John

 

[Madrab]

Yup +1, you've overheated a few of the fittings there a little, go a little cooler, Pic 2 is what your are looking for.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Too much heat.

Keep the flame moving. Stop when the first sign of solder appears then a tiny winsy lick of flux off your brush to set.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Yesterday's project.

 

[Jay32Heating]

Not a bad effort on all... I find that having a wet cloth on me and wiping away the dripping excess flux during the heating up helps as the main thing to remember is the solder will stick to the flux so when the flux runs or builds up during the blow torch heat... wipe it away with a damp cloth then apply the solder and that should give you a near perfect joint. hope this helps

 

[Berk]

Thanks for all the feedback

I need to pick up some more fittings to play with, then I'll give this another try with the flame dialled down a bit.

...maybe a propane torch would be more suitable?

I did consider this when I looked for advice on what to use but some recommendations said the hotter gas and doing it fast is preferred, so I decided it would be worth learning how to do it this way. I don't like to waste anything, but I made a decision that sacrificing some fittings, a length of pipe and some gas could be a worthwhile investment.

I'm happy that I haven't totally ballsed this up on my first run, but If I still can't get the hang of by the time the bottle of Mapp runs out I may try propane instead.

 

[45yearsagasman]

No need to apply flux to inside of fitting.

 

[Dan Robinson]

recommendations said the hotter gas and doing it fast is preferred

Or is when you've got the hang of it, but by then you'd be better off with end feed fittings anyway.

 

[PullerGas]

View attachment 109319

View attachment 109320

Yesterday's project.

A bending machine is never to be seen.
When it's a CC or an installer that's green!!

 

[Dan Robinson]

A bending machine is never to be seen.
When it's a CC or an installer that's green!!

Annoyingly I've lost the guides for my benders and haven't got round to buying any more.

Looking for a different bender set too... My Rothies are 16 years old.

 

[PullerGas]

Annoyingly I've lost the guides for my benders and haven't got round to buying any more.

Looking for a different bender set too... My Rothies are 16 years old.

With the money you're making Dan you could afford any of these;
http://www.benditnow.co.uk/plumbing-machines

 

[Dan Robinson]

Was thinking of those Bahco ones actually. Do they do a 22mm set? My bending skills are pish poor though, I won't deny it.

 

[stardanny]

Op, you doing just fine, I've done thousands of fittings and never had any problem. It all about gravity, a bit of blob will always appear at bottom of fitting, it will be fine.

I have a MAPP Gas but it has adjustable knob that reduce heat, making it useful for different size of fittings.

Dan, shame on you, not using a bender lol!

Daniel.

 

[PullerGas]

Was thinking of those Bahco ones actually. Do they do a 22mm set? My bending skills are pish poor though, I won't deny it.

I've got the 15mm one Dan & it's good for in-situ bending etc. Not cheap though!!
Not too sure if they do a 22mm one.....dunno.

I'd of thought with the price of crimpo fittings, pipe bending would be a must!!