Primer blistering

Having a nightmare time of it.

I’ve left the walls alone for now as I’m painting the ceiling too and wanted that finished up first. I put my first coat of colour on yesterday which went on fine, though this morning had a few spots where it was peeling. Scraped back, Peelstop, filled. This evening I’ve done my second coat and quite a few areas have lifted immediately.

Really no idea what I’m doing wrong here. How can these areas have been fine when I put the primer and first coat on, but now be lifting? This doesn’t happen around the edges when I use a brush at all. Could it be the rollers?!

I’ll scrape, Peelstop and fill these again. I’ve done my second coat now so I’ll have to get a mini roller and blend these areas best I can.

Any advice at all very welcome and appreciated
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1972.jpeg
    IMG_1972.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1973.jpeg
    IMG_1973.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 12
Sponsored Links
What paints are you using?
I'm thinking cheap contract emulsion was used as a primer probably over thinned with water. Then a top coat of some DIY paint which never took well to the contract emulsion.
Maybe even worse something like easycare which never takes well to contact emulsion.
Probably got away with it although the next person to come along with something damp like emulsion and apply over is going to get bubbles.
 
Thanks for replying @Wayners

I believe the previous owners has it skimmed, there’s peeling paint elsewhere so not sure if there was a mist coat of any kind.

The primer I use was B&Q GoodHome walls & ceilings primer & undercoat. I hold my hands up it was a mistake buying this and it seems they’ve actually discontinued it. I put 2 coats of that on. The paint I’m using for the colour is Lick. Not cheap at all and seems decent though rather thick.

The bubbles so far have been my primer and topcoat but not the original paint…not sure if that lines up with your theory?
 
Sponsored Links
Yeah that’s the one. It does say “It can be used on bare plaster or plasterboard, old water-based paint, and old solvent-based paint” so I guessed I was safe on that front
 
My fault sorry.
I didn't read that correctly.
Year it looks like a standard acrilic primer then.
What is said on lick data sheet regarding primer?
 

Nothing that insightful. It says previous painted surfaces just need rubbing down, bare surfaces should be primed. We had a load of bonding and filler put in as we had a huge gap from an old picture rail. That will have needed priming so I just did the whole room for good measure
 
Ok.
I'm thinking where you went wrong was using the good home primer.
A painter would use something they trusted and knew would stick well so I'd of used bullseye 123.
That's only because it's a sure thing and I made mistakes in the past and had problems.
 
I’m inclined to agree, they seem to have stopped selling it which might be pretty telling. Lesson learned. This is the only room we need to do large amount of filling or plastering in, everything else is in decent nick. We are going from dark to light in most rooms though, is bullseye 123 a good option for that? Thanks again @Wayners
 
Sometimes your better off just using the decent paint as a primer.
These durable emulsions have quality resins which stick really well. Splash some of a tiles floor or on ceramic sink ect you can have a problem removing.
Always good to wash surfaces with sugar soap or other surface cleaner suitable to be painted over. It really helps.

Consider a phone call to lick technical and ask about what primers they recommend if any..
 
Thanks for sharing your experience @Wayners , I’ll give them a call. I did use sugar soap but I got a ready mixed spray one which I won’t be doing again.

In the meantime, what’s the best move here? Scrape back the bubbles, Peelstop, fill, sand then paint over? The areas I’ve done that so far have a noticeably different texture to the rest of the ceiling, much smoother. The walls are also covered in the GoodHome primer so I suspect I’m going to have the same problem there. Would another coat of a different primer help? I’m guessing the horse has bolted
 
What happens if you stick duck tape on paint and pull off?
I've used rolls or carpet protector to pull off emulsion.
Also a wallpaper scraper but dull the blade a bit.
Get it all back to good.

If you don't fancy getting it off then coverstain will seal and create a water barrier.
Tart up damaged areas and paint.

Other option is continue as you are patching up
 
I don't think I've got it in me to start trying to pull the paint off, it's doing a good enough job of that itself!

Strangely all of these bumps seem to have disappeared overnight while it has dried. I assume they won't actually be adhered to the surface underneath so they will eventually peel, but I can't even see them anymore so I may have to tackle them as and when they come up
 
Getting nowhere with this and approaching my wits end. A bit of masking tape was enough to peel a load of my topcoat and primer back to the base coat. Seems particularly bad in areas I’ve filled. I guess my mistake was not priming those areas despite toupret claiming there’s no need.

I’m thinking I should try some bullseye 123 now? So scrape back, sand, peelstop, fill, sand, bullseye and then top coat? I’m not sure what the finish is going to come out like anymore with all these patched areas
 
I think you have applied a primer and it hasn't dried , you have painted over the top of it and the top coat has bubbled.....retarded drying .....is what it looks like

Once this has happened adding more paint or primer just makes it worse
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top