Problem with Galaxy 2-44+ panel

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Hello,

I recently replaced an old galaxy panel with a new 2-44+ version along with a new keypad and a few new PIRs, all with the help of a friend who used to work for an alarm company.


I thought everything was setup properly, but I have a problem! The alarm sets ok, but when you attemp to unset it by entering the code nothing happens. After more than a minute it will accept the code, then prompts for a user reset before going back to normal. All I can find related to this problem is a comment ensuring that the door contact is set to final and the pir in the hall (where the keypad is) is set to exit, both of which I have checked.


Any help will be greatly appreciated! I should add that my friend with the experience is away and out of reach arm but I do know all the codes and am an electronic engineer!

Thanks!
 
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Sounds like it's set for the fob to unset the system ...this option may need turning off
Option 55 / 3
Galaxy guy will confirm as a tad rusty on the galaxy
 
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IMG_1607.PNG
 
Well that was quick! Thanks for the help, problem solved! I was worried it was going to be a hardware or earthing problem. I wonder how that option was turned on? Everything was working well last week!

Thanks!
 
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Ok, time for another question! What SMS centre numbers are people using on their Galaxy alarm panels? I'd like to get text messaging working!

Thanks!
 
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On further reading it seems sms can be unreliable, what's the best way to do it without paying an alarm company big money?

Thanks!
 
Hi, thanks for sorting out the OP's issue Mark. I've been a bit busy lately.

The DD243 setting to restrict to a tag unset when the system is full set is an option required by the standards for a grade 2 system. It's there to force the use of a prox tag. A crazy option really, as it can lead to false alarms where the occupier knows the code, but doesn't have their tag to hand. Anyway, that's standards for you.

OP, I don't like to plug, but you can buy the LCE IP module for the G2 Galaxy, or Honeywell's own E080 IP module. The LCE module allows remote control via Virtualkeypad plus event reporting on the G2, where the Honeywell module only supports event reporting.

The IP modules can be configured to send events to a cloud based receiving center like SelfMon (£1 a month) or other providers. The benefit of IP is that it's very low cost. Push notifications are free, SMS and voice calls are priced reasonably and the broadband line can be monitored for interruption on a regular basis. The downside is the initial cost of the IP module, but it does add some modern features to the G2 panel.
 
OP, I don't like to plug, but you can buy the LCE IP module for the G2 Galaxy, or Honeywell's own E080 IP module. The LCE module allows remote control via Virtualkeypad plus event reporting on the G2, where the Honeywell module only supports event reporting.

The IP modules can be configured to send events to a cloud based receiving center like SelfMon (£1 a month) or other providers. The benefit of IP is that it's very low cost. Push notifications are free, SMS and voice calls are priced reasonably and the broadband line can be monitored for interruption on a regular basis. The downside is the initial cost of the IP module, but it does add some modern features to the G2 panel.
I've been using the LCE IP module on my Galaxy G2 for a few years now, and it works great. I have full access to my alarm panel from anywhere with internet access, just as if I were standing at the keypad in my hallway. It cost £50 to buy the module (I think it's now £56), then one quid per month for the SelfMon monitoring service. I receive monthly account notifications and top up my account with a fiver or tenner by PayPal every now and then. I also received excellent support from Stuart at SM Alarms when I wasn't sure of some settings on my particular router when originally setting it up.
I have no affiliation with the company other than being a happy customer, and can highly recommend the service.
 
Thanks GalaxyGuy and Alan, that looks like an excellent option. I have a network point on the wall beside the panel so it could be an easy connection and looks like it gives some useful features.

Any problems or quirks I should be aware of?

Thanks!
 
Any problems or quirks I should be aware of?
No problems from mine. The module needs physically installed/fitted into the control panel, then there's some settings to be programmed, but that's it. IMHO it does everything ADT would charge me £25/month (or more) for. I suppose a quirk could be that it wouldn't work if your network was down or if someone cut (or unplugged) a cable or something - mine would notify me that there's a communication breakdown (and notify me again when the comm's were restored) but it wouldn't notify me of a triggered alarm while comm's were down.
The SelfMon service is also highly customisable - Emails are free, and you can have texts/voice calls to multiple numbers as you wish. The one quid covers the first 20 texts, then extras are 5p/text, voice calls cost a bit more etc.
 
Hello all,

I got the LCE module configured first time, really impressed with it! Haven't tried to setup the remote keypad yet but have the text and email working properly! Thanks for the suggestion!

I do however have two other questions. I have bought an internal sounder. I know I should connect it to RIO 0, using address 1004. I have already used as an input with a pir wired to it. So I need to remove the pir and wire it to another input then connect the strobe negative wire to 1004 and the positive wire to the +ve supply? I then need to reconfigure 1004 to act as a strobe. Am I correct?

Also, I would like to connect my house fire alarm to the panel, how should I do that?

Thanks!
 
I think you are mis-understanding the addressing and the RIO's - unless you have a PIR connected to an output ???. The onboard RIO's on the G2 series have 12 Inputs and and 12 outputs. The on-board zones outputs are as follows:

The inputs
1001 - RIO 0 Input
1002 - RIO 0 Input
1003 - RIO 0 Input
1004 - RIO 0 Input
1011 - RIO 1 Input
1012 - RIO 1 Input
1013 - RIO 1 Input
1014 - RIO 1 Input
1015 - RIO 1 Input
1016 - RIO 1 Input
1017 - RIO 1 Input
1018 - RIO 1 Input

The outputs
0001 - Trigger module output (white connector on PCB)
0002 - Trigger module output
0003 - Trigger module output
0004 - Trigger module output
0005 - Trigger module output
0006 - Trigger module output
0007 - Trigger module output
0008 - Trigger module output
1001 - This is marked as Trig on the PCB screw terminal (30mA current sinking)
1002 - Connected to an internal speaker and has a picture of a speaker on the PCB
1003 - This is the bell output and has a picture of a bell on the PCB
1004 - This is the strobe output and has a picture of a strobe on the PCB


As you can see from above, connections for inputs and outputs are different. If you are not connecting a strobe to output 1004 (little picture of strobe/sun symbol at that screw terminal), then you can connect your siren negative wire (black) to the 1004 screw terminal and connect the positive (red) to +12V. When the output activates, the transistor in the circuit is switched on and the 0V line will be pulled down to ground.

The Bell and Strobe outputs are 500mA sinking, so can drive most sirens. If your external bell box uses a transistorised SAB circuit, it means that it will not be high current, so you can probably connect it to ouput 1001 (trig) and change the default programming of that output from 'set' to strobe.

The 1004 output is strobe at default. This would mean that your internal sounder would continue to sound after the external bell had reset. This may not be a good idea if you have connected neighbours.

All of the outputs are programmable, so you can change 1004 from strobe to bell and it will cut out based on your bell timer cut-off programming.


Almost forgot about your fire panel question. The fire panel will likely have a relay output with clean/volt free contacts. Just wire 1k resistor across the contacts and a 1k in series with one side and connect to an unused zone on the panel. Change the zone type to Fire. If it doesn't have a relay, then you will need to add one to the fire alarm output and connect the contacts in the same way. Some fire panels are 24V, so you would need a 24V relay with its coil connected to the fire panels siren output.
 
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Also, when you start using the app with SelfMon, you can configure the app to receive push notifications. You can continue to receive burglary/fire/panic/tamper/line path events via SMS or Voice, but since push notification is not charged, you can get notifications for opening/closing at no cost. This keeps things at £1 a month, while providing multiple message paths for priority events.
 

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