Problem with Sunhouse storage heater

[hellobadger69]

ok, update.

I did as you suggested and unwired my heater from the wall and stuck a plug on it. Hey presto, it worked! So, the heater is fine. Is it possible that the economy 7 switch/timer is actually in the wall switch or would it be hidden away in the fuse box or something? I've attached a pic of the wall switch (in this pic the heater is unwired and attached to a plug).

I will attach a standard wall plug socket and see if it works with a lamp tonight after midnight. I'm just slightly concerned that the wires might be live during the day (see my above question about the economy 7 switch being in the wall switch or not).

Thanks again, I'm making progress now!

 

[riveralt]

You should also check that the switch hasn't gone. I must admit I thought that was going to be an FCU.

If you have a multi-meter set it to continuity settings with the switch on test between the L (supply) and L (load) - you should get a reading. Also test between N (supply) and N(load) where you should get a reading.

These switches do sometimes stick so it worth turning it on and off several times in quick succession.

 

[hellobadger69]

thanks riveralt

I've just tested the plug and I do get continuity accross both L to L and N to N. Any other ideas?

 

[riveralt]

thanks riveralt

I've just tested the plug and I do get continuity accross both L to L and N to N. Any other ideas?

I take it you mean the switch.
Okay so we know that the heater works.
We know that the switch that controls the heater power works.
Next thing is to check that the economy seven timer and the cable that provides power. This can be done by testing but I think it best to try it the way you suggested by replacing the switch for a socket and plug a light in. This will test the cable and the economy seven switch.

Alternatively, normally (sometimes??), for economy seven setups, there is an overide switch, which allows it to operate continually (expensively) I take it you don't have that facility.
A photograph of your econ 7 meter and consumer unit would be helpful.

 

[hellobadger69]

You're right, I did mean the switch.

ok, I've uploaded some pics: Pic 1 is the fuse box which is in our flat. The other two pics are from the communal basement (we live in a flat) - each flat has the two boxes (pic 3), one of which is unlabelled and the other labelled "off-peak". Each flat also has a meter (pic 2). All the switches on all of these boxes are set to “on”.

I should also mention that our other storage heaters (in a different room but also in our flat) are working fine.

Sorry for the bad pics, hope you get the idea.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Is it possible that the economy 7 switch/timer is actually in the wall switch or would it be hidden away in the fuse box or something?

It will be in the meter compartment.

Either you will have two meters and two of everything else or

you will have one modern meter which just switches the supply over at cheap times.
This kind of meter will have a button which, when pressed, shows several different readings.

 

[riveralt]

Do you have any instructions for the meter - and if so do they show how to use the override button or boost button?

If you cannot do this then it will back to changing the switch to a socket plugging in a table lamp or something and waiting until the heating switches on.

Out of interest how many heaters do you have working - I assume four and the mcbs on the lower consumer unit are for each heater. If your other heaters are working then the problem is between the MCB at the consumer unit and the switch close to the problematic heater.

If the lamp test does not work and there are no obvious junction boxes - then we are left with no option but to turn the power off and look inside the consumer unit and check that the cables are securely terminated and do a continuity test - do you feel you are competent to do this?

If the cables are properly connected and there are no obvious junction boxes and you get a continuity reading then I would say we are back to the switch - it may well have been stuck and the subsequent movement or activation has freed it hence your continuity reading. A 20Amp dual pole switch is a couple of quid. It might be worth swopping before contacting a spark.

 

[hellobadger69]

Sadly no instructions for the meter. I'm going to do the table lamp test then get a new switch if that doesn't solve the problem (as in, if the lamp works).
We actually only have three storage heaters although I think one has been removed and replaced (so, your right, there were 4 originally). I'm not thrilled at the idea of looking inside the consumer unit and might call a sparky if it comes to that (unless people here think it's ok for an amateur to give it a go?)

Thanks for all your ongoing help.

 

[riveralt]

I'm not thrilled at the idea of looking inside the consumer unit and might call a sparky if it comes to that (unless people here think it's ok for an amateur to give it a go?)
Thanks for all your ongoing help.

I wouldn't advise it unless you have some means of isolating the power to the consumer unit totally - like a dual pole isolator. If not then even if you turn the Consumer Unit main Switch to off you may still have live cables close to where you are working.

 

[shedbang]

ok, update.

I'm just slightly concerned that the wires might be live during the day

I must admit to being a bit worried by this statement. Before you're messing around with the socket / FCU (Fused Connection Unit - which is what your heater is wired into) you really should be isolating the circuit, regardless of the time of day.

Proving that it is truly dead may be difficult because of the timer, but at the very least, in the absence of more targeted information, I would be switching off every switch I could find (your main CU and those 2 in the basement) before touching it...

 

[radioredcat]

Check there is not another switch for that heater somewhere as this happened to me at my uncles house one of his heaters wasn't working and it turned out there was a switch at the original position before the heater was moved.

Andy

 

[Wontdothatagain]

Could you post another picture of the meter with the reading card removed so we can see all the cable coming out of the meter.

 

[hellobadger69]

Hello,

I've posted another pic as requested. I've moved the card out of the way so you can see a bit more - I can't open the meter up at all because it is all wired closed (presumably this is to stop people trying to fiddle their meter readings ).

I didn't get a chance to fit the plug socket for the 'lamp test' over the weekend but have done it this evening - fingers crossed for tomorrow morning (very early).

Andy

 

[333rocky333]

Looks like you have an Mk 4 pole contacter in the off peak consumer unit to the right of the 4 mcb's

It is possible thats where the fault is preventing power to one heater,

Im assuming them other 3 heaters work ok, if so then your timer and meter are not at fault

 

[hellobadger69]

The saga continues:

My off-peak electricity hours are 00:30 to 07:30 so I got up this morning around 7am to test if I was getting power from the faulty heater electricity source using my camera charger as the testing item (I fitted a standard plug socket yesterday evening). I flicked the switch on and the camera charging light came on! Power!.....then almost immediately it went off again I left it for a few minutes and tried again - exactly the same thing; power when I flick the switch on for a fraction of a second then it dies. I tested this again after 7:30 and got nothing at all, no hint of power (which at least makes some sort of sense).

Interesting eh?! Anyone got any smart ideas?

333rocky333 - thanks for the input. You're right, my other storage heaters do work. I think we are getting somewhere now in isolating exactly where the problem is...