Push Button Cistern Cable Stuck, Can’t Access Flush Valve - Help!

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Remove whole flush valve with cable assembly. Valve is a bayonet fit.

The cable end to valve is a clip in fit, but the clips can break fairly easily *I have the T shirt..

https://www.siamp.co.uk/optima-50/ may help with all that?

Flush cone should be easy to sort and may just need a remove, clean and some silicone grease to refit and push back in place?
 
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Thanks again, all - I’ll order new valves and try to get them out via the opening, rather than have to remove both the cabinets/units. It’s really only access that’s the issue.

I’ll have a look at fitting a new flush cone.
 
Put a smear of LS-X around the flush cone, it was only slightly, possibly, damp when adjusted.

Bought a new Thomas Dudley flush valve, but the cable was too short, so, upon further investigation, this was the button issue - not sure if it was supposed to have a terminal on the end of the wire:
 

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Put a smear of LS-X around the flush cone, it was only slightly, possibly, damp when adjusted.

Bought a new Thomas Dudley flush valve, but the cable was too short, so, upon further investigation, this was the button issue - not sure if it was supposed to have a terminal on the end of the wire:

Crimp a bootlace ferrule on to it?
 
This is testing my patience - not wanting to fix what isn’t broken, I’ve replaced the diaphragm washer on the Siamp fill valve (cleaned the existing one, but it was still sometimes slow to fill). Didn’t touch or change anything else, but now the cistern will sometimes continue to fill until it goes down the flush overflow, even though the float/tray has popped up and there doesn’t appear to be anything flowing via the diaphragm washer. Everything looks fine, the washer is seated correctly, changing the float/rod height doesn’t make any difference. Can water enter the cistern aside from via where the diaphragm washer assembly is?
 

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