Question regarding sliding bevel

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I have ordered a sliding bevel ,but never used one before ..I have had a look on the net about using one for fitting skirting boards etc that are not a true 90 degree's angle.Can i use the bevel by placing it on the corner that i want to find the angle then transfer it straight to say a skirting board ?or do i need to use a protractor as well ..I will be using a handsaw as i only have a mitre box .Also do i cut the skirting board at a slight angle with the saw ?


Like i say never used one before ,if i don't ask then i don't find the answer.

Cheers :)
 
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Yes use a sliding bevel but you'll need to halve the angle that it gives you so for that you'll need a protractor, the only thing that may trip you up is the mitre box, don't know which type you have but the fixed ones will only do 45 degrees equalling 90, no good if you have a 100 degree corner
 
A sliding bevel is ideal if you want to copy an angle onto a piece if wood, especially if you have to copy the same angle onto many pieces of wood. A typical example of this is cutting the ends of the spindles for a stair rail.

What it won't do on its own is give you the correct angle of cut for a mitre. :( :( :( For that you also need a protractor because the only way to get a perfect mitre around a corner is to bisect the angle. That's why you cut 45° mitres to go round a 90° corner. (Try drawing it and you'll see what's going on.)

So use the sliding bevel to transfer the angle of your corner onto the protractor, calculate the mitre angle then use the protractor to set the bevel to the cutting angle. Yes, you will have to angle the saw to make the cut and it won't be easy but, if you can somehow clamp the bevel onto the wood, you might be able to use it as a visual guide for the saw blade. :idea: :idea: :idea:
 
Very rare to fid a true 90 degree external angle on any wall in my experiance.

Cut the skirting at 45 deg with the mitre block and handsaw and make any adjusments to the angle as necessary with a hand plane.

Practice makes perfect- or 'near enough' as I like to say.

Steve
 
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you can do the same with a bit off card or paper place it in the corner on the floor or overlap the external corner by 4" mark where the corner is[if you use 4" skirting]then with an offcut lay the skirting into the corner or over the corner if external to the edge off the paper draw a line on the paper on the wood outer edge on both angles making sure they cross
then internals draw a line where they cross to the corner or from the mark denoting the corner to where the lines cross
you can then lift the angle or place the paper on the saw and adjust the blade to the angle by eye but not for the inexperienced doing it by eye :D

if the angle is less than 90 fold the paper over or cut off a wedge making sure the point in the corner is intact
 
Thanks for the info ...I now have the idea how to use a bevel and protractor .. Am i right in saying place the sliding bevel in the angle i want to measure ..lock the bevel then check with protractor what angle degree it is then half this and reset the bevel on protractor :?: now all i need is to be able to cut that correct angle with a saw once i have transferred the angle from bevel to skirting board :?: This will be my main snagging point trying to cut it correctly.I do already have this circular saw http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...y-1-Basic-Multi-Purpose-Circular-Saw-10837613

But i guess this is better for bigger jobs as it is harder to control such tedious cutting. .would the argos one i linked above do any cuts when used with sliding bevel :?:
 
Thanks for the info ...I now have the idea how to use a bevel and protractor .. Am i right in saying place the sliding bevel in the angle i want to measure ..lock the bevel then check with protractor what angle degree it is then half this and reset the bevel on protractor :?: now all i need is to be able to cut that correct angle with a saw once i have transferred the angle from bevel to skirting board :?: This will be my main snagging point trying to cut it correctly.I do already have this circular saw http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...y-1-Basic-Multi-Purpose-Circular-Saw-10837613

But i guess this is better for bigger jobs as it is harder to control such tedious cutting. .

you are only half way there if there is any lean on the walls this will also affect the angle
if a wall leans in you will have an accurate angle on the miter but a wedged gap from bottom to top or visa versa
 
sorry i just edited my post above as you replied..Will that argos one make the cut if i use a sliding bevel to find the correct angle degree ?? The wall is well out when i put a square on it ..i have had no troubles doing the internals as i scribed them .
 
Thanks for the info ...I now have the idea how to use a bevel and protractor .. Am i right in saying place the sliding bevel in the angle i want to measure ..lock the bevel then check with protractor what angle degree it is then half this and reset the bevel on protractor :?: now all i need is to be able to cut that correct angle with a saw once i have transferred the angle from bevel to skirting board :?: This will be my main snagging point trying to cut it correctly.I do already have this circular saw http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...y-1-Basic-Multi-Purpose-Circular-Saw-10837613

But i guess this is better for bigger jobs as it is harder to control such tedious cutting. .

you are only half way there if there is any lean on the walls this will also affect the angle
if a wall leans in you will have an accurate angle on the miter but a wedged gap from bottom to top or visa versa
When i first tried the cut using mitre box and 45 degree angle the top part of the mitre fitted together ok but there was a wide gap at bottom that would look silly filled as i am keeping it pine.The bottom looked like a tent with i a big gap if you get my drift lol,Can this angle be cut right if i use a bevel and a sliding mitre that will do all the degree's ..would like a yes or no as i don't want to spend if it won't be right. Thanks for your time.
 
if the skirting leans out say 6mm at the bottom on the wall if you pack it out with a 5mm packer along the fence to lean the bottom out
you need the support from the area you are supporting it from up to within a few mm after the the cut
now the reason for 5mm is the packer will have some height so support part way up the back the actual thickness will depend on the points off contact

remember if the skirting is higher than the fence the amount you pack it out may be less as the top as its sitting behind the fence
 
if the skirting leans out say 6mm at the bottom on the wall if you pack it out with a 5mm packer along the fence to lean the bottom out
you need the support from the area you are supporting it from up to within a few mm after the the cut
now the reason for 5mm is the packer will have some height so support part way up the back the actual thickness will depend on the points off contact

remember if the skirting is higher than the fence the amount you pack it out may be less as the top as its sitting behind the fence
Sorry but i am a little lost with this explanation :oops: I have just fitted new door frame ,hung a pine door and architrave and done all the internal skirting boards using the scribing method but i am stumped regarding the external looking as good as rest of my work..I did the externals down stairs at 45 degree mitre cuts and they were pretty much spot on .I am really just a novice at this just doing my home up and sometimes it seems like another language :) I just want my end result to look good .Everything upto this looks good (well to me lol).Just need to get this problem solved..I like to learn new things and am very willing to learn to do it right.
 

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