Question regarding sliding bevel

[big-all]

you are adjusting the miters on the angles
i am suggesting rather than adjust the bevel [lean ]on the saw further complicating the cut you just replicate this on the fence by packing

 

[zapper42]

you are adjusting the miters on the angles
i am suggesting rather than adjust the bevel [lean ]on the saw further complicating the cut you just replicate this on the fence by packing

Sorry to sound dumb but still cannot understand your method could i not just get the sliding bevel ,measure the angle ,use a protractor to find what degree the angle is ,then half it and ajust the bevel to that figure then mark it on the skirting board .Then use a sliding mitre saw set it to whatever degree i bisected ,say example 67 degrees ..Ajust the sliding mitre saw to 67 degrees and then cut it..Would this work ,yes or no .. surly i should be able to get the cut right.

Just seems i am going round in circles ,

 

[big-all]

you are adjusting the miters on the angles
i am suggesting rather than adjust the bevel [lean ]on the saw further complicating the cut you just replicate this on the fence by packing

Sorry to sound dumb but still cannot understand your method could i not just get the sliding bevel ,measure the angle ,use a protractor to find what degree the angle is ,then half it and ajust the bevel to that figure then mark it on the skirting board .Then use a sliding mitre saw set it to whatever degree i bisected ,say example 67 degrees ..Ajust the sliding mitre saw to 67 degrees and then cut it..Would this work ,yes or no .. surly i should be able to get the cut right.

Just seems i am going round in circles ,

the problem you have you are altering the bevel and the angle if you are well versed then great otherwise you also need to adjust the bevel angle on the cut

 

[zapper42]

This is so frustrating that nobody can give me an easy layman's approach at getting this external cut as close as possible My research said to use a sliding bevel and protractor and find the angle then half it ,set bevel to new angle and transfer this to the skirt and then cut it at the angle transferred ..So there is no machine then that will cut this angle once set at whatever degree it should be I find this hard to believe Does a sliding mitre saw electric one let you cut at any degree ..can some please answer yes or know as i have asked and linked a mitre saw and still no one has said if it will work

I am now stuck and wasting time as i cannot finish the job i started just for the sake of a bloody cut.Yes i could use filler but it will stand out like a sore thumb.

 

[big-all]

yes an electric miter saw is the correct tool and using a bevel will correct any problems with the miter but not if the wall is out off plum vertically as it then requires correction on 2 directions at once
so to keep it simple just carry on as you wish and use filler where required

 

[Space cat]

The bottom looked like a tent with i a big gap --

Getting the mitre angles right is only half the job. As big-all says here:

-- if the wall is out off plum vertically as it then requires correction on 2 directions at once --

you have to think in three dimensions.

You need to find the angle between each wall and the floor. You could use the sliding bevel for this but it would be just as easy, and potentially more accurate, to hold a length of skirting against the wall, overhanging the corner, and mark the angle onto the back of it. You'll have to do this for each side of the corner on two pieces of board.

You now have the angles of cut for each length but remember that you've marked up the backs of the boards. You might also find that your lines aren't straight. In this case you'll have to decide on best-fit straight lines for your cuts. DO NOT try to cut a curve; it won't work!

You'll find it a whole lot easier - not to mention neater - to cut from the front because that way the saw blade doesn't obscure your cutting line. So now it's time to find the mitre angle. Once you've got it worked out, use the sliding bevel to continue the cutting line across the bottom of each board to the front. Finally, use the bevel again on each board to copy the angle of the cutting line from the back to the front.

Good luck; I think you'll need it.

 

[Norcon]

Just use this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f6ZSJDAWZI

No luck needed just loads of cash.

 

[zapper42]

Well filler it is then

 

[maltaron]

If it looks good at the top and has a gap at the bottom it is the wall out of plumb, not the skirting. Plasterer's often leave a splay at the bottom of walls and it is normal to knock off the plaster under the skirting line to allow the skirting to fit plumb.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

...it is normal to knock off the plaster under the skirting line to allow the skirting to fit plumb.

Yep. First task when skirting out a room - take a club hammer and bolster to the splay.

Zapper,

I reckon it is all but essential to try to get your skirting board vertical even if that leaves a gap between the wall and the top of the skirting. If it isn't vertical you'll always struggle trying to get the joint to close. BTW a big gap between skirting and wall often indicates that you haven't hacked enough of the splay away

 

[ladylola]

I've chopped off plaster more than once but have also where the plaster has been a bit delicate resorted to having to take some off the back of the skirting, -and then there's those situations that require scribing and so forth just to slow you down even more.