Instead of just whinging why not actually correct the image?
Do you think they all got drawn and uploaded to the wiki by magic, or maybe someone actually spent a lot of time trying to create a helpful resource for people
Quick Question Re: Kitchen Reno
- Thread starter veedee
- Start date
Instead of just whinging why not actually correct the image?
Do you think they all got drawn and uploaded to the wiki by magic, or maybe someone actually spent a lot of time trying to create a helpful resource for people
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The Wiki on this site can't be edited, as the register/login links do not work, and haven't worked for years.
That's why most people gave up on it long ago and never use or refer to it.
That's why most people gave up on it long ago and never use or refer to it.
I’ve just logged in without a problem
Lots of answers but you need to provide more info. What does the FCU currently supply and it's wattage? What wattages are mentioned on the washing machine and the fridge. There is usually a plate / label on the back somewhere.
It would also be nice to know if the power input to the FCU is a ring - 2 cables or a spur - 1 cable.
Also rather hard to say if the cooker circuit could be used. Depends on the cooker and the wiring.
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Either of those could be a radial circuit.
The fcu appears to supply a double socket (above worktop) and an single socket (appliance perhaps?) below counter
Currently no appliances are plugged in. All i have are empty kitchen units as it all being renovated
The spec on the washing machine (to be purchased) says that it consumes 1.04kw per cycle
The fridge (also to be purchased later) will consume 169 kWh per year. Power to this will come from a spur from my cooker switch
Thanks for the comment
Really need the kw of the washing machine not the kw hour. What sort of consumer unit do you have. A photo including any labelling might help but wont really unless the circuits are labelled.
Sometimes places are wired with a 2.5mm radial for the kitchen and a single spur for the cooker. The size of the cable to the cooker can depend on when the wiring was done.
The fact that there is an FCU fitted suggests it is already a spur and fitted because it has 2 sockets on it. But spurred of what? You might be better off spurring off something else and assuming you do want above worktop sockets so may already have one. There isn't enough info to give you advice. You need to do what an electrician would do. Circuits in the CU, what they are connected to and where they go. This is the reason electricians are supposed to be the only people who can do work like this.
Cookers can need their own feed from the CU. Many items in a kitchen can take a fair amount of power and be used at the same time. A separate 2.5mm radial rated at 20amps for all of the kitchen bits and pieces can be dubious and would usually also have at least a separate 4mm radial for the cooker rated at 32amps. Sometime a larger cable. 4mm was traditionally used. Given what can be in a kitchen a 32amp ring or radial makes most sense along with a separate feed for an electric cooker if one is to be used. My toaster is 2.2kw for instance and then there is an electric kettle, microwave, fridge freezer, washing machine and a coffee gizmo. Many people these days have a coffee machine of some sort. We have a gas stove but it has an electric grill / 2nd oven.
Sometimes places are wired with a 2.5mm radial for the kitchen and a single spur for the cooker. The size of the cable to the cooker can depend on when the wiring was done.
The fact that there is an FCU fitted suggests it is already a spur and fitted because it has 2 sockets on it. But spurred of what? You might be better off spurring off something else and assuming you do want above worktop sockets so may already have one. There isn't enough info to give you advice. You need to do what an electrician would do. Circuits in the CU, what they are connected to and where they go. This is the reason electricians are supposed to be the only people who can do work like this.
Cookers can need their own feed from the CU. Many items in a kitchen can take a fair amount of power and be used at the same time. A separate 2.5mm radial rated at 20amps for all of the kitchen bits and pieces can be dubious and would usually also have at least a separate 4mm radial for the cooker rated at 32amps. Sometime a larger cable. 4mm was traditionally used. Given what can be in a kitchen a 32amp ring or radial makes most sense along with a separate feed for an electric cooker if one is to be used. My toaster is 2.2kw for instance and then there is an electric kettle, microwave, fridge freezer, washing machine and a coffee gizmo. Many people these days have a coffee machine of some sort. We have a gas stove but it has an electric grill / 2nd oven.
Not the case.
6mm² was required with a BS3036 30A fuse because of its derating factor and is still traditionally used (because it was traditionally used) even though 4mm² is now satisfactory with 32A MCBs.
I agree. I rarely see 4mm T&E used anywhere in a domestic setting.
@ajohn thanks for the help
1. According to the spec sheet, the washing machine has an Electrical connection rating of 1850w. Does this help?
2. I have a modern metal consumer unit. Separate cooker circuit, 6mm cable, 2.5mm cpc on a 32amp breaker
3. Additionally, i have a Separate ring circuit 32amp
another poster mentioned that the fcu would be on the ring main as it has one cable coming from above into the fcu and then another wire going into the double socket adjacent. then a spur (undercounter single socket) is below
the double socket adjacent is also on the ring as opposed to being a spur as it contains two separate 2.5mm twin and earth
1. According to the spec sheet, the washing machine has an Electrical connection rating of 1850w. Does this help?
2. I have a modern metal consumer unit. Separate cooker circuit, 6mm cable, 2.5mm cpc on a 32amp breaker
3. Additionally, i have a Separate ring circuit 32amp
another poster mentioned that the fcu would be on the ring main as it has one cable coming from above into the fcu and then another wire going into the double socket adjacent. then a spur (undercounter single socket) is below
the double socket adjacent is also on the ring as opposed to being a spur as it contains two separate 2.5mm twin and earth
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