Radiators have a loud vibrate and stay on past timer

[tininho]

right-oh....

Firstly, how has the boiler behaved since you switched the heating off???

Are you sure the actuator is on correctly??

To check operation, turn off the boiler at on/off switch and leave off untill cold..... Switch it back on and run the hot tap, when boiler fires up feel the flow pipe, ( this will be 22mm and at the extreme left hand side.... the one with the pressure guage).... If the pipe starts to get hot, then the div/valve is still passing (a small amount of heat is ok but not too much)....

A few more things to try, but let me know about this first....

Martin

 

[k0r54]

Hi,

Ok. Sorry to keep bombarding but I have found some interesting things and have a few more questions. As you know I have successfully changed the brass valve.

Since doing that the problem still occurs.

I have discovered a few bits. I noticed the radiators did start to cool down and actually were almost off then the pre heat for the boiler came on. Low and behold the radiators started to heat up. When I then run the hot tap it again also heats up radiators and the tap water cools to a luke warm temperature.

Although I am fairly certain this does point at the divertor. How can I make sure the actuator is on correctly? The ratainer clip has gone through ok although was tough to get through.

The boiler appears to be working correctly. Fires up with the timer and every 1hr 30 min pre heat comes on etc etc.

In regards to the pipe just before switching it off it was pretty hot. It took about 40 min to cool I then switched the boiler back on and it got pretty hot fairly quick. I could hold for about 40 seconds before it was a little uncomfortable if that is a guide, this was with the hot water tap running.

Thanks
k0r54

 

[tininho]

Hi,

It seems fairly certain it's a fault with the diverter valve..... If the clip pushed right through and the actuator is stable (not shoogling about) it's on correctly, which then points to another couple of things....

1: the actuator is not pushing/retracting the pin in the cartridge

2: The printed circuit board is not energizing the actuator and therefor not allowing it to divert

3: there could be a fault with the divertor manifold it's self

We really hope it's neither 2 or 3. Option 2 is a pretty costly part to replace though it's easy to do.... option 3 is both awkward and pricey (part and labour wise)....

The next thing I would try is removing the cartridge (brass) again, and giving the inside of the maniflod a good clean with a rag to make sure there is no debris preventing the cartridge from sealing properly....

Beyond this, it's difficult to say without seeing the job.... I'd try giving the inside of the valve a clean, and if still experiencing problems bite the bullet and get someone out.... I do know that ideal's own service department will carry out a one off repair at a fixed price, though i'm unsure of cost....

Let me know how you get on....

Martin

 

[tininho]

Hi,

I should also point out, a printed circuit board in something which must be carried out by a gas safe registered engineer....

With regards to the manifold, I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself, purely because it can be a nightmare to get back together, and in turn to repair any resulting leaks.... Honestly, look at this boiler incorrectly and it will start leaking..... Very common for leaks because of all the push-fit connections....

Martin

 

[k0r54]

Hi Martin,

Thanks I will look at getting that actuater and after that get an engineer out if it still doesn't work. Fingers crossed a new actuator will work ...

Thanks for all your help and I will let you know how I get on.

 

[k0r54]

Hi,

Just out of interest is it possible to remove the actuator, power up the boiler and look to see if the motor is working. This would obviously rule out the PCB.

Also should I manually be able to change the valve with my thumb or something? Would like to rule as much out as possible.

Thanks
k0r54

 

[k0r54]

Hi,

Ok All resolved

Thanks so so much for your help martin - couldn't have done it without you. I bought a new actuator and fitted it and it still did not work. I then took out the plastic unit that the valve sat in and flushed it all out. Low and behold out comes some rusted metal from the old valve.

Put it all back together an all is working. I then switched it all off and put the old actuator on and it still works fine so hopefully will get my £80 back for the actuator.

Also in regards to the vibration noise from the valves. That has not happened for a while but i THINK it is because I have lowered the preasure. It would raise before to around 2 bar but now to only 1 and in turn i think that has stopped the noise.

Again thanks for all your help.

 

[k0r54]

Hi,

sorry just one more question. We accidently left the hot water tap dripping last night both up and down and we woke up and the heating had not turned on. When I looked at the boiler it was reading d for domestic hot water. When I then turned the tap off the radiators started to get warm with the boiler obviously turning to c. Is this correct behaviour? That the heating switches off when the hot water is running?

Thanks
k0r54

 

[k0r54]

Hi,

Ok. the vibrating sound is still ongoing.

I have tested and I can see an arrow on the TRV that points towards the rad. However this pipe heats up second.

This is the same for all the TRV's. Are they all wrong? can I just simply drain the system. (Assume from a bottom rad somewhere) and then change them all around?

Thanks
k0r54