It will be nice when it’s finished
if you are worried double up on thickness
or at least the outside leg which incidently could be 2x1if you wish lining up with the foot a near as possible to give most support
Isn't this that lol?Can you get a really good fixing into the wall, I.e direct into brickwork?
If so, heavy duty battens and a thick shelf material should sort it.....I don’t suppose a vertical peg leg would be possible?
John
Something like this, but installed upside down. Suspending the shelf.
Machine screw and washer/nut on the bottom section.
all i am saying in his mind that's ok he hasn't learnt it's not a good idea yet---- well he has nowCome on big-all, a chunk of wood sat on the appliance underneath, nobody would seriously think that was OK, I don't believe it.
Jesus wept. Please tell me that's not actually your test of where to drill into a wall that contains electrical accessories?Electrics usually run down so what's the issue?
Thxs for diagrams above on safe zones. Used a detector and couldnt find any voltage above the electrical sockets etc on worktop. But just in case no screws were put directly above any socket or other electric thing. One of the walls is an internal and there's a electric socket the other side. 1970's flat, I guess brickJesus wept. Please tell me that's not actually your test of where to drill into a wall that contains electrical accessories?
Everything you can see related to electrics on a wall, be it a socket, switch, fused outlet, blanking panel, wall light etc etc creates a + shaped "danger zone" centred on it and running the full width/height of that wall face until it reaches a corner. There is also by default a "danger zone" emanating 6 inches away from every corner (including at the ceiling corner) in either direction, on walls
I've called them danger zones despite the official name being electrical safe zones because the official name is related to keeping the wires safe, not you. Drilling into any of these zones without first having checked whether they contain wires represents a danger to your life and a danger to the house user's life (because you could easily just nick a cable and put a screw into just the live core, making the screw live to the touch). It's not enough to just turn the electrics off for this same reason (of creating live screws/brackets etc)
Buy a detector and learn how to use it please
---
Separately to the Darwin Award entry application, I think it would have looked better if you'd obtained a length of kitchen worktop, cut it so it was a triangle and mounted across the corner to sufficient depth that the microwave would sit at an angle, and also drilled a hole large enough to admit a uk plug, right at the back behind the microwave so that the wire could be fed through the hole at the back of the shelf and down into a socket rather than being trailed over the front edge:
View attachment 338305
Triangle shelf, microwave in yellow, wire in blue
A short section of white trunking going mostly down to the worktop would also have helped neaten the job up. Worktop material would be strong enough to support the load without additional support but care should be taken to waterproof the underside if placing a kettle under it as steam would gradually bow/delaminate, and eventually ruin, the shelf
Good stuff on the detector, though I have to say a bit of a shocking colour choice from Bosch there given that 10% of males exhibit some form of colour "blindness"/difficulty discerning red / green.
These, are made for the job, and fold back to the wall when not in use...
Amazon.co.uk : microwave brackets
www.amazon.co.uk
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