Ratchet Crimpers

Im surprised that nobody has mentioned that the way the jaws work on the ratchet crimpers means its possible to exert a higher force on the jaws when criming than a non ratchet crimper. It pivots in 2 places.
Yes, there is a mechanical advantage due to that - but, as you say, that is due the the double pivot (such that a given amount of movement of jaws requires a larger movement of handles, hence jaw force is greater than handle force) - nothing to do with the ratchet mechanism. The mechanical advantage due to the double pivot, hence amount of (hand) force needed to effect a crimp, would be exactly the same if you removed the ratchet mechanism from the tool. My question was about the purpose of the ratchet mechanism.

Having a ratchet does enable one to effect the crimp 'in stages' if one finds that easier, but the total amount of handle/hand movement against resistance (strictly the total of integrated force x movement), over the several squeezes, will be exactly the same as if one had done it in a single squeeze. From what one is saying, the main advantage of these tools is meant to be that they release the latching ('ratchet') mechanism when (and only when), the pre-set level of force has been achieved - expect that mine (and other similar ones I've used) dont do that!!

Kind Regards, John
 
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just a theory lol, but... these crimpers can be calibrated, i thought thats why it has a screw you can undo, and a plate that twists around to increase or decrease the point when the ratchet releases?

so, could it be you gradually crimp on the ratchet to the point it releases, rather than squeezing with full force which would take the jaws past the point they would normally release according to the adjustment.

because something i have experienced before with the very small bootlace ferrules is, if you just squeeze on the handles past the point where the ratchet would normally release.. it overcrimps the joint and the ferrule can break off.

so now, I pull a little bit at a time and step it using the ratchet then when it has reached the required amount of crimp it normally releases itself to leave a good crimp... not under crimped or over crimped.

if its leaving it under crimped ratched probably needs adjustment.
 
just a theory lol, but... these crimpers can be calibrated, i thought thats why it has a screw you can undo, and a plate that twists around to increase or decrease the point when the ratchet releases? so, could it be you gradually crimp on the ratchet to the point it releases, rather than squeezing with full force which would take the jaws past the point they would normally release according to the adjustment.
Thanks. Interesting theory, but I think mine are probably just duff :mad: Even if I squeeze very 'gradually', it clicks over the teeth of the ratchet as I go, but never releases (no matter how hard I eventually squeeze), even if I adjust it to it's most feeble setting - I have to release the latch by taking a tool to the manual release lever (between the handles).

I have a feeling that I may well be much more impressed with these things once I have a pair that actually do what is says on their tin :)

Kind Regards, John
 
maybe, they do tend to wear and the TLC ones despite being of a good enough quality are still at the cheaper end of what is available so they only have a finite life on them.. i suspect they wear on the pivots.

I had to change a pair last year, because they started to get free play and I found every time I crimped the crimp was getting slacker.. and I had to keep resetting it by twisting the plate.
 
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I'll admit I'm scanning replies. But... Closer to the pivotal axle (as in pliers) gives more force than those further from the pivotal axle.

The "ratchet" has absolutely nothing to do with the force applied. When the crimp is crimped, it's crimped. Simples!!

One more notch and the handles release. A perfect crimp every time! As long as you tug on the burger to make sure!!
 
Yes"ratchet" has absolutely nothing to do with the force applied. When the crimp is crimped, it's crimped. Simples!!
Quite. The ratchet enables one to crimp'in stages' if one wishes, but has nothing to do with force applied. The release mechanism (nothing necessarily to do with a ratchet, and could be implemented even in the absence of a ratchet), if it works, can act as force-controlling feature, a bit like a torque wrench/screwdriver, releasing the latch when the set force has been reached (but not actually stopping you applying greater force, if you really want to!).
One more notch and the handles release. ...
Maybe yours do :)

Kind Regards, John
 
maybe, they do tend to wear and the TLC ones despite being of a good enough quality are still at the cheaper end of what is available so they only have a finite life on them.. i suspect they wear on the pivots.
Not merely at the 'at cheaper end' - actually at the rock bottom of the price range for ratchet crimpers! However, mine can't be blamed on 'wear' - they've always been as I described, from the day I bought them. I (perhaps stupidly) presumed that the absence of a functioning force-related release mechanism (like I'd experienced with much more expensive ones) was simply 'what was intended' in such a cheap product - but it seems that I was wrong.

Kind Regards, John
 
Reading all this, I can't help wondering if some people are thinking of a different type of ratchet tool altogether.

Most are talking about the basic crimping tool for small insulated crimps - as it wold be correct to say that the force required would be almost identical were the ratchet mechanism removed, it's only there to stop you releasing on a partly made joint.

But I think there are tools (for bigger crimps) where the ratchet action actually closes the jaws in steps. There's a lot more mechanical advantage - but you can't close the jaws with one movement of the handles. So you squeeze-release-squeeze-release-... each time closing the jaws a bit more and then backing out the handles to get another bite on the ratchet.

Also, the difference between the cheap flat pliers and the 'proper' tools isn't just the width of the jaws, nor the mechanical advantage. The cheap pliers don't actually make the crimp properly as they have no side support. When making the proper crimp, the crimp is supported on it's sides so that as you crimp, it can't just flatten. The cheap tool just flattens the crimp and you get minimal contact pressure as the wire spreads sideways as well.
 
Reading all this, I can't help wondering if some people are thinking of a different type of ratchet tool altogether. Most are talking about the basic crimping tool for small insulated crimps - as it wold be correct to say that the force required would be almost identical were the ratchet mechanism removed, it's only there to stop you releasing on a partly made joint.
I've admitted that my OP might not have been totally clear, but I did mention 'budget' tools (per the portrait repeatedly posted by BAS) in the first sentence, and that vis what the remainder of my post also referred to. I also think (but cannot be certain) that everyone else who has contributed has probably been talking about the same things. As you say, the ratchet does not affect the relationship between the force applied by the operator and the force exterted on the crimp Ithe 'mechanical advantage', MA). In fact, no simple ratchet can do that.
But I think there are tools (for bigger crimps) where the ratchet action actually closes the jaws in steps. There's a lot more mechanical advantage - but you can't close the jaws with one movement of the handles. So you squeeze-release-squeeze-release-... each time closing the jaws a bit more and then backing out the handles to get another bite on the ratchet.
Indeed, and I've refered to those more serious bits of kit. As you say, the point is that the greater mechanical advantage (well, it's what we used to call 'velocity ratio', the reciprocal of MA, that really matters here) is such that the jaws do not close completely with one complete squeeze - so one has to have more than one squeeze, which means one ideally has to have a ratchet (to avoid release of pressure between squeezes. The amount of effort required to use these is less, due to the MA resulting from length of handles and pivot arrangement - the presence of a ratchet is a consequence of, not a cause of, that high MA.

The budget ratchet crimps are a cross between the two - the jaws can be closed completely just with one squeeze, so they don't 'need' a ratchet for the same reason as the high-MA/VR tools - but they do have one.

The feature everyone is going on about is the 'release latch', which operates when the amount of force reaches a pre-set level, which obviously makes for consisitent crimping. Such a mechanism does not actually require a ratchet (could just be done with a pressure operated 'clutch' or cam, as in a torque screwdriver), but having a release mechanism on a ratchet is one way of doing it. As I've said, the problem is that this feature does not work on mine (or other similar ones I've used) - which is why I didn't think it was meant to happen with these cheapo ones!
Also, the difference between the cheap flat pliers and the 'proper' tools isn't just the width of the jaws, nor the mechanical advantage. The cheap pliers don't actually make the crimp properly as they have no side support. When making the proper crimp, the crimp is supported on it's sides so that as you crimp, it can't just flatten. The cheap tool just flattens the crimp and you get minimal contact pressure as the wire spreads sideways as well.
I thinnk that you must be looking at something slightly different. With the TLC-like ones, the only difference really is the width of the die - although 5-10 times 'wider' than the flat pliers type), the die is flat across its width (i.e. the gap between die faces is the same all the way across). It obvioulsy 'affects' a greter length of the crimp, but it does not 'support' some bits of it and 'crimp' other bits - it crimps equally across its whole width.

Kind Regards, John
 
..never releases no matter how hard I eventually squeeze - I have to release the latch by taking a tool to the manual release lever
Broken. Thats what that is.
I think you're probably right - and I've just been very unlucky in having been exposed only to 'broken' examples of these things.

Even if I say so myself, I think I can probably be excused for my misunderstanding (which gave rise to my being accused of "talking nonsense"!), given that bad luck. These budget ratchet crimpers are so cheap that, when all the examples I'd handled (at least 3) failed to exhibit the force-limiting/'release' feature (which I'm used to in more expense ones), I simply assumed that this was not a feature of these cheapo tools - hence my question as to what the ratchet mechanism in them was actually meant to achieve.

Hopefully, if I soon find myself with a non-broken example, I should at last understand the truth about them! Watch this space!

Kind Regards, John
 
OK. Judging by all your replies, it sounds as if, quite amazingly, I've only ever expertienced duff 'budget ratchet crimpers' - although I agree that very expensive (and certainly larger) ones do function as you're all describing. I should perhaps have been clearer in my comments and questions only related to the 'budget' ones (which are what is always being advocated here), not to 'serious' bits of kit.
I've ordered another pair of 'TLC's best', and will report back!
OK - 'reporting back' time. The new tool has arrived (branded 'Mercury'on the packaging, but nowhere on the tool), and confirms what you all knew, and have been saying - it does have a functioning force-related release mechanism, as well as the ratchet.

I remain amazed at my bad luck (or is it just a very badly QCd product?). This is the second I've bought from TLC, I have another seemingly identical one from somewhere else (Screwfix?) and I've used (or tried to use) at least one seemingly identical one belonging to someone else. The first three all failed to show the 'release' functionality - so I think I can be forgiven for having concluded that, unlike more expensive crimpers, these cheapo ones weren't meant to have that functionality (just a, not very useful, ratchet).

As regards 'cheapo' even this latest pair is not perfect. The screw which locks the force adjustment plate had a largely stripped thread! I guess one gets what one pays for!

As I suppose I expected, like most torque wrenches and screwdrivers, these things do not necessarily prevent 'over-crimping', because one can carry on squeezing after the 'release point' has been reached.

As supplied, the force adjustment is set to its 'weakest' level, and needs frightening little hand force to reach its release point - at that setting it does not reliably produce acceptable crimps (in most cases, pulling results in movement between conductor and crimp). Resetting it to 'maximum force' results in the requirement for a reasonably (but not excessively) higher 'squeeze' and, on the basis of a few tries, seems to reliable produce crimps which superficially appear OK. So I wonder what setting people normally use with these things? Is there some more scientific way of setting an optimal crimping force?

Kind Regards, John
 
IME ratchet crimpers are set up to release when the crimp is compressed to the desired dimensions - nothing to do with the amount of force required, except that it will require more force to squeeze a crimp down to a smaller size.

'Proper' crimping pliers have accurately machined dies to compress crimps to the known correct dimensions. That's another part that the cheap 'n' cheerful pliers lack, along with a ratchet mechanism.

We used to use ratchet crimpers that were supplied with 'Go' and 'No Go' gauges to confirm the pliers closed up the crimps to the correct size.
 
IME ratchet crimpers are set up to release when the crimp is compressed to the desired dimensions - nothing to do with the amount of force required, except that it will require more force to squeeze a crimp down to a smaller size.
Yes, I can imagine that might be the case (easier to implement). However, as you go on to say ...
'Proper' crimping pliers have accurately machined dies to compress crimps to the known correct dimensions.
That seems the obvious way to do it. If the dies are designed to completely 'close' when the desired degree of crimping (dimensions) has been achieved, there is no possible risk of 'over-crimping' and no need for any other 'crimp-limiting' mechanisms.
That's another part that the cheap 'n' cheerful pliers lack, along with a ratchet mechanism.
Quite. As I've said, one gets what one pays for, so I wouldn't expect much of these cheopo tools. If one guess that both wholesalers/distributors and retailer have probably added something around a 100% mark-up, and bearing in mind that they will have been shipped half way around the world, I doubt whether the manufacturer of these TLC ones gets much more than about £2-£3 per pair - what can one expect for that? :)
We used to use ratchet crimpers that were supplied with 'Go' and 'No Go' gauges to confirm the pliers closed up the crimps to the correct size.
That sounds very sensible and was the sort of thing I was asking about. It would be easy enough to fabricate such guages if I knew what the 'desired' degree of crimping was (for standard insulated crimps) - anyone know?

Kind Regards, John
 

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