- Joined
- 28 Nov 2020
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Thank Bob, I would if I knew what I was looking for! How do I tell if the Rayburn I have had a vaporising boiler or not please?
Rayburn 368k Boiler Lockout
- Thread starter Irisblue78
- Start date
Sponsored Links
The 368k boiler is a fan assisted vaporising burner. If it starts from 'cold' and cuts out after 10 mins, then the solenoid valve is prime suspect. There are 2 solenoids on the boiler which are located on the left handside just forward of the float control (OCV). The boiler valve is on the larger of the 2 pipes. Look on here for any names/numbers and you may, if lucky, be able to get just a coil. The last 2 I've encountered have required a complete valve change. The other potential for a lockout problem is failure of the thermocouple, and judging by the white tape wrapped around it as it enters the burner, this is a real possibility. If this breaks down when hot, then it will close the solenoid valve and give you lockout.
Can I jump in on post as have got the same problem, Rayburn 368k not firing up to heat rads, oven works fine, Irisblue Did it solve your problem getting a coil? We have replaced solenoid and thermocouple and still no good not an option to spend out on another form of heating, (bl**dy covid) no one around here will look at it, it is immaculate to look at Why do they always go wrong when the weather is so cold any help would be much appreciated
Sponsored Links
No noise now, the fan did cut in before then when it ran out of oil ( I presume) it would cut out. The fan doesn’t even start now. We also haven’t had WiFi for days, hopefully sorted that now, never rains as the saying goes, what is your opinion on Sandyford ? Someone has tried talking us into getting a recon one of those?
You need to get busy with a multimeter. Remove the side controls cover. Looking at it, do you have a large PCB, or a collection of relays?
If relays, unplug each one and replace just to eliminate any poor connections. If a PCB, then carry on thus. Switch on and check for power to the fan terminals, if you have none, then check the thermostat for power feed and supply. If you have power and the fan does not run, raise the air cover at the top and try moving the fan with a flick of a screwdriver. If the fan starts you need to check the pressure switch is operating from NC to NO. If it does that, then the next phase of operation is to check the transformer feed. You can usually check the glowplug for localised heating round the body. After about 2 mins, you should hear the pilot valve open the fuel should then flow to the pilot pipe and get ignited by the glowplug.
If you have run out of oil, you may need to prime the pilot feed. Undo the connection into the burner and use a piece of tube over the open end and when the pilot valve operates suck fuel through. If you cannot suck, then the pilot solenoid may be goosed.
If the pilot lights (you can check this by removing the thermocouple and looking through the hole. If it lights, replace the Thermocouple and after a short time you should hear the main valve open.
At each stage, check the appropriate terminals for power.
if the pressure switch does not work, you may have a choked up boiler. When was it last serviced?
I would never recommend a reconditioned cooker with boiler. The burner may be OK, but you don't know how good the boiler body is. I've seen recons fail within 2 years.
If relays, unplug each one and replace just to eliminate any poor connections. If a PCB, then carry on thus. Switch on and check for power to the fan terminals, if you have none, then check the thermostat for power feed and supply. If you have power and the fan does not run, raise the air cover at the top and try moving the fan with a flick of a screwdriver. If the fan starts you need to check the pressure switch is operating from NC to NO. If it does that, then the next phase of operation is to check the transformer feed. You can usually check the glowplug for localised heating round the body. After about 2 mins, you should hear the pilot valve open the fuel should then flow to the pilot pipe and get ignited by the glowplug.
If you have run out of oil, you may need to prime the pilot feed. Undo the connection into the burner and use a piece of tube over the open end and when the pilot valve operates suck fuel through. If you cannot suck, then the pilot solenoid may be goosed.
If the pilot lights (you can check this by removing the thermocouple and looking through the hole. If it lights, replace the Thermocouple and after a short time you should hear the main valve open.
At each stage, check the appropriate terminals for power.
if the pressure switch does not work, you may have a choked up boiler. When was it last serviced?
I would never recommend a reconditioned cooker with boiler. The burner may be OK, but you don't know how good the boiler body is. I've seen recons fail within 2 years.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
