Re-drilling holes for curtain brackets

1. You're saying I need fill the existing hole then drill a hole much deeper and buy some longer screws that go through the plasterboard layer into the wall and penetrate at least 25mm?
No, drill the hole in the wall and put the plasplug in the wall.

You can fill the plasterboard afterwards if it shows.
 
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3. Also, will Plasplugs / GripIt Plasterboard plugs support screws that need to go much deeper into the wall itself?

Plasplugs are for walls.

Plasterboard plugs are not suitable.

The wall is supporting your curtain rail.

The plugs go into the wall.

The screws go into the plugs
 
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I mostly get these brown ones.

They are strong enough for hanging curtains, cabinets or mirrors.

A bit overkill for a cuphook but I don't bother with little ones.

Your screw lengths need to be

The thickness of the fitting
Plus the thickness of the plasterboard
Plus the air space
Plus 35mm penetration of the plasplug in the wall.

Probably around 70mm
 
Just a few screws and red plugs and some polymer grab like CT1 with some thin wood.
Then emulsion the wood with the wall colour.
70mm x 4mm Ish wood long range to overhang the window by 150mm.
Screw rail to wood.
 
Fitting with three close holes are not ideal for plasterboard , I use just top hole to fix and a short screw into the remaining , screwed in slowly , these just prevent twisting but main fixing needs to be capable of holding the bracket alone.
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone. Very helpful.

@JohnD On the screw lengths these are the plugs that came with the bracket. They're the same length as the screws.

Understand I need to get 7cm screws. But do I need longer plasplugs? Or can I use these ones and just screw into them so the last 3.5cm of the screw goes into the plasplug buried 7cm in the wall?

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Yes.

But when I say the plug is buried in the wall, I mean the wall. I do not include the airgap or the plasterboard.

You can insert the plugs into the wall by putting a screw a turn or two into the plug and using the screw to push it into the drilled hole. When it is fully lodged, undo the screw.
 
Makes sense. I think I have the right model in mind. Just need to find some thinner 7cm screws than the others I have to fit the fitting.

Thank you so much for your help on this, @JohnD !
 
The brown plugs have the screw and drill sizes embossed on the flap, with sample holes to fit.
 
@Wayners: Great tip on the wood... Also presumably doing this will be easier as I can use larger screws and plugs to really secure it to whatever is behind the plasterboard and cavity?

Also I'm guessing I should use 4 screws for the wood (one in each corner)?

Also already have plugs and long screws for this!
 
3 screws is enough to hold wood. Smaller window 2 is enough. One each end and one in the middle on most windows.
They only serve to hold wood until polymer grab like stixall or CT1 sets.
 
my approach
assuming a few spare days and a lintel over the window would be fast setting sticks like +++ or quality no nails pump into the void until i am happy at least a golf ball size up to a tennis ball area full set and hardened behind for plugs to fix into remembering more than 12mm shpere will only harden on the surface layer and take perhaps a day per 12mm extra depth to set
 

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