Great ideas from rc and Steve , l have also in the past dot and dabbed plasterboard on bay window pillars. I get the measurement of the pillar and allow a few inches then get the height and cut it to size.Then run your stanley down the centre on the back of the board then put it in position and push it in to the angle .Once you have done that you can put your board adhesive on the back of the board and put it in to place. You could do the cheeks of the pillar the same way and when it has all "gone off" cut off the overlap of the angles. Before you skim it you can put a "stop" bead on the corners and skim to it. I would also get a joiner to either put a new cill board on so he can run it into the angle of the pillars or cut off the "nosing "of the original one and put a new one on and run it in.
just as a note to AW2011S if you do have to remove the said bead and do any of the suggested methods then i expect you will have to make adjustments to the other beads around the window or they wont line up
just as a note to AW2011S if you do have to remove the said bead and do any of the suggested methods then i expect you will have to make adjustments to the other beads around the window or they wont line up
just as a note to AW2011S if you do have to remove the said bead and do any of the suggested methods then i expect you will have to make adjustments to the other beads around the window or they wont line up
This is probably why the plasterer is thinking it will be a can of worm lol! Thanks for the advice re cill Roy. Does the cill need doing before the plastering? Not sure if the cills sit "into" the reveals.
Yes, if the cill is put on first then that governs the central point of the pillars so the plasterer can determine where the centre of the pillar is and work from that.. If the pillars are getting dot and dabbed then the dpc up the window pillars should be siliconed underneath where the board meets the frame and then cut off before plastering so no damp can track back onto the finished face...
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