The plaster on a wall is cracked and almost loose. I need to re-plaster part of the wall and unscrew/remove the double socket. Is insulating the wires with insulating tape safe enough while waiting for the plaster to dry for a few days?
Re-plastering behind double socket
- Thread starter Ambergreen45
- Start date
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I assume that this would mean that power would be on, so insulating tape would not be ideal or that safe. I would termiante cables in to a connection block rated at 30A and enclose in choc block or by fitting the face plate on to the back box.
NO! Not only is "insulating tape" not suitable for protecting people against direct contact with the mains but unless the socket is a spur you will also likely need to ensure ring continuity.
If there is enough slack in the cables I would use terminal block in a chockbox to properly enclose the connections without leaving anything in contact with the plaster.
If there is enough slack in the cables I would use terminal block in a chockbox to properly enclose the connections without leaving anything in contact with the plaster.
I think I will use a choc box, but before I proceed, in case there isn't enough slack on the cables, could I unscrew the double plastic socket from the wall, put back the face plate and let the whole socket hang slightly? Will the weight of the double socket be ok on the cables?
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Personally I would be considering this, if possible?
1)Isolating the circuit, prove circuit is dead using approved electrical testing equipment.
2) Then remove socket front
3) Do the remedial work to plaster with power still isolated.
4) Reconnect socket front and screw back on to box, leaving socket slightly forward of plaster work, until it has set.
You can then re energise the socket circuit, whilst plaster is drying.
Ideally you don't want a gap that would allow for objects to find there way in, such as screwdrivers and fingers.
If you cannot do the remedial work with the power off, then follow steps 1 and 2 and connect up using block and choc.
1)Isolating the circuit, prove circuit is dead using approved electrical testing equipment.
2) Then remove socket front
3) Do the remedial work to plaster with power still isolated.
4) Reconnect socket front and screw back on to box, leaving socket slightly forward of plaster work, until it has set.
You can then re energise the socket circuit, whilst plaster is drying.
Ideally you don't want a gap that would allow for objects to find there way in, such as screwdrivers and fingers.
If you cannot do the remedial work with the power off, then follow steps 1 and 2 and connect up using block and choc.
Yoozy box.
Though never used one and don't suppose I ever will.
Though never used one and don't suppose I ever will.
Or an old cornflake box cut up and covered with clingfilm.
(Sorry, Alan.....)
(Sorry, Alan.....)
I find Wagos good for this purpose.
you push them over the exposed wire, then lock them into place with the little lever on them.. so no wire is exposed and circuit rating is maintained (in most circumstances... unless using 6mm or larger)
they provide a good secure connection... and if it is a ring or point where a spur starts the connector blocks have multiple holes for each indvidual wire.
you push them over the exposed wire, then lock them into place with the little lever on them.. so no wire is exposed and circuit rating is maintained (in most circumstances... unless using 6mm or larger)
they provide a good secure connection... and if it is a ring or point where a spur starts the connector blocks have multiple holes for each indvidual wire.
After having switched all switches off on the control unit, I looked at the white plastic double socket, which is part of a ring circuit. The skirting board has been taken off so I could see two thick black cables running underneath it (I have a solid concrete floor). Next to the socket I have two fused switch sockets, one for the garage at the bottom of the garden and the other which is a spur for a light above it (not the main light).
I now want to take that wall light out completely and have taken the 13A fuse out of the fused spur switch. I have put the mains back on, then hacked back some of the plaster by creating two channels on each side of the buried light cable to take the cable off the wall. I haven't unscrew the socket yet since there was too much rubble falling off (sockets were covered by a large piece of wood). Hopefully I'm doing it the right way...
I now want to remove the fused spur switch altogether. With the mains off again, I've unscrew the live red cables with a screwdriver tester and then tried to separate the twisted cables with a pair of pliers but they are thick and very stiff (also pliers keep slipping)! I don't want to damage anything by using too much force. Am I using the right tool to undo the stiff twisted cables from each other?
Thank you.
I now want to take that wall light out completely and have taken the 13A fuse out of the fused spur switch. I have put the mains back on, then hacked back some of the plaster by creating two channels on each side of the buried light cable to take the cable off the wall. I haven't unscrew the socket yet since there was too much rubble falling off (sockets were covered by a large piece of wood). Hopefully I'm doing it the right way...
I now want to remove the fused spur switch altogether. With the mains off again, I've unscrew the live red cables with a screwdriver tester and then tried to separate the twisted cables with a pair of pliers but they are thick and very stiff (also pliers keep slipping)! I don't want to damage anything by using too much force. Am I using the right tool to undo the stiff twisted cables from each other?
Thank you.
You are not using the right tool for testing a circuit for dead "neon screwdrivers" can be very dangerous and give you bogus readings. So use an approved voltage tester.
As far pliers are concern, it's the right tool to use. But if yours are slipping the quality may not be too good.
Just be be careful and take your time and cable damage will be avoided.
Now then black cable behind skirting board on solid floor!
Two issues
*standard of cable, some black cable's insulation made of VIR and could be failing.
*Where do the cables behind the skirting extend to? they should not be routed horizontally.
The two black cables come from the concrete floor and go vertically behind the sockets, but are hidden by the plaster ( I can see them where the skirting board use to be). One is kind of rugged, under 1 inch thick and I think it brings electricity to the garage (outdoor building) but there is a fused switch next to the socket for it. The other one is less thick but smoother and I could see it came from a metal conduit buried under the mortar screed (I has to do some work on the screed), but I think this one feeds the sockets. Unless one is redundant? I could not see where they really led to when I opened the sockets, I think I will need to take the plug away from the wall to have a look, even though they are buried in plaster.
Thanks for your help in that.
Thanks for your help in that.
Pics almost on their way! But first, I need to know how to check the power is dead in order to be able to proceed. I bought a multimeter (as per link below and also in black) but the instructions are way above my understanding. I've unplugged the face of the socket but want to make sure there is no power after having switched off the mains on the control unit. Is this the correct device and would someone kindly be able to tell me how to do it with this device? Do I connect the red test lead to the red cables and the black test lead to the black cables? If so, how do I use the controls on the multimeter? I'm a bit weary because I've just read (after I bought it) that a multimeter should never be used on mains. Is that correct? Thank you.
http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/electr...jhjYX3SDlEUFWaOdTpLU0xVcTayKYYOc w4t9gBa9qg==
http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/electr...jhjYX3SDlEUFWaOdTpLU0xVcTayKYYOc w4t9gBa9qg==
Should really be using one of these, much safer than a multimeter.
Unfortunately you are looking at paying around £44 but at least there is considerably less danger of getting it wrong with this.
That multimeter probably doesn't comply to GS38 standards and one wrong move such as wrong selection of setting could cause it to do you some serious damage.
I would also suggest you read up on basic electrical principles first for your own safety.
http://content.fluke.com/pdf/catalog/catalog-eng/index.html#/32/zoomed
Unfortunately you are looking at paying around £44 but at least there is considerably less danger of getting it wrong with this.
That multimeter probably doesn't comply to GS38 standards and one wrong move such as wrong selection of setting could cause it to do you some serious damage.
I would also suggest you read up on basic electrical principles first for your own safety.
http://content.fluke.com/pdf/catalog/catalog-eng/index.html#/32/zoomed
Not a model I have used, so generally, black probe connects to com port (should be colour coded) and red to voltage port (should be colour coded)
Meter should be set to AC voltage (should state AC and have AC sine-wave above V)
Common practise would be to use red probe on live and black probe on neutral and CPC. Always place/connect the first probe on to the non-live terminal when measuring for voltage, then second probe to the live terminal (so your are then not waving live voltage around on the second probe)
you should then get a measurement if live of around 230V (+ or -10%)
That's rubbish, but it must have approved leads and probes to GS38 as conny has pointed out.
But I do prefer the approved voltage testers.
It is also good and safe practise to prove the equipment is working, by testing either by proving unit or a know source.
Do any of the cables you mentioned previously have steel wired braids within the sheath, likely garage supply.
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