Out of interest, why did you not chase out for the cold feed to the shower? IMHO the rest looks ace, but that pipe.....diyisfree said:If you want to see a BIG transformation look at this one i did a few weeks ago 200 year old cottage that had been un-occupied for 18 months
reboarding out from bare bricks in bathroom best way
- Thread starter ceramix
- Start date
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Wabbitpoo.
I totally agree. The guy had a combi boiler installed about 3 weeks before i started the bathroom. When i went originally to look and quote i said we would put a thermostatic shower valve up and shower from the combi. (all hidden in the wall)
The guy said yes fine. I did all the pipework tiled the walls then he decided he would rather have an electric shower.
Because it was a stud wall, the cable was fed from the opposite side (bedroom) and unfortunately i had NO option but to run the cold feed in Chrome pipe...
If i were a real bodger, i would have used copper
I totally agree. The guy had a combi boiler installed about 3 weeks before i started the bathroom. When i went originally to look and quote i said we would put a thermostatic shower valve up and shower from the combi. (all hidden in the wall)
The guy said yes fine. I did all the pipework tiled the walls then he decided he would rather have an electric shower.
Because it was a stud wall, the cable was fed from the opposite side (bedroom) and unfortunately i had NO option but to run the cold feed in Chrome pipe...
If i were a real bodger, i would have used copper
What you are saying about the pipe reminds me a bit of the obstacle I have. There is a pipe running parallel to the wall (on the outside!) so it means I can't tile the whole room because I'd have a pipe ruining the look of my work and if I cover with skirting, it will look strange in a room that is completely tiled. By the way, I'm not hinting anything bad there diyisfun. I never even noticed the pipe in the picture and even if I had have done, I wouldn't have thought anything of it. The pipe I was talking about is so rusty and old. It's in the way because the council had to lower the floor to make the room height more suitable for a toilet, leaving the pipe to remain on view .
Great work again on that kitchen. You never fail to amaze me.
.Great work again on that kitchen. You never fail to amaze me
.Tozzy,
Dont worry pal... Send a piccie and im sure someone on here could advise how to try to hide it..
I would never bodge a job but unfortunatly when a customer changes his mind half way through a tilled wall, there is little you can do...
Dont worry pal... Send a piccie and im sure someone on here could advise how to try to hide it..
I would never bodge a job but unfortunatly when a customer changes his mind half way through a tilled wall, there is little you can do...
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And if he changes his mind, I don't see any reason why you should rectify if the final outcome differs from the original plan
.Infact, I thought of an idea just then... I think boxing it in prior to tiling and then use it as a little sill to put plants on or something. It's all I can think of
. Should work and may look nice if it's made a feature of in that way .There you go, Problem solved already....
Send a piccie anyway lets all have a ponder for you...
I love pictures its a fetish of mine
Send a piccie anyway lets all have a ponder for you...
I love pictures its a fetish of mine
diyisfree said:Use Bonding, Browning or Hardwall. Apply a scratch coat 5mm or so then lay on another coat building to a thickness of about 12mm.
Rule with your featheredge, horizontally then vertically, fill any hollow's leaving a finished thickness around 8 to 10mm and there you have it...
You can skim with multi but if you are tiling, tile direct to the bonding..
Plasterboard wall's
Three easy steps in 3 pictures
Very nice work. However, it would be equally nice if plasterboard were used throughout. (imo)
Wet is better than dry
MAY have looked as nice but wouldn't have that quality feel to the touch.
Good work diy, nice to see someone else who still appreciates wet to dry!!!
MAY have looked as nice but wouldn't have that quality feel to the touch.
Good work diy, nice to see someone else who still appreciates wet to dry!!!
Keyplayer,
I do occasionally use it and i mean occasionally BUT only if there is NO alternative. If i walked into your bathroom and it was down to bare bricks I wouldn't say "OK Mr, this needs drylining"
I would say, OK Mr, I need to re-plaster all your walls first with Bonding, Browning or whatever suited that particular job.
I know people swear how good dryling is but i hate the stuff. i hate it when you tap a wall and it sounds like a cardboard box, i hate it when you want to hang a heavy rad on it, i hate the fact that a plasterer is now referred to as someone who can skim a flat board.
blah, twoddle, and humpty back foot pig,,,, Phew there got it out of my system
To sum up, I am a traditionalist. Ok, SOME new methods within the building and construction industry are better but to me, there's nothing better than falling against a properly plastered wall when you are pwissssed and thinking " hell fire that's an hard bwoody wall" instead of falling straight through it and hurting yourself
I do occasionally use it and i mean occasionally BUT only if there is NO alternative. If i walked into your bathroom and it was down to bare bricks I wouldn't say "OK Mr, this needs drylining"
I would say, OK Mr, I need to re-plaster all your walls first with Bonding, Browning or whatever suited that particular job.
I know people swear how good dryling is but i hate the stuff. i hate it when you tap a wall and it sounds like a cardboard box, i hate it when you want to hang a heavy rad on it, i hate the fact that a plasterer is now referred to as someone who can skim a flat board.
blah, twoddle, and humpty back foot pig,,,, Phew there got it out of my system
To sum up, I am a traditionalist. Ok, SOME new methods within the building and construction industry are better but to me, there's nothing better than falling against a properly plastered wall when you are pwissssed and thinking " hell fire that's an hard bwoody wall" instead of falling straight through it and hurting yourself
diyisfree said:
Lime plaster must be your favourite then?
The advantages of plasterboarding would appear to be,(courtesy of another current thread?), very fast drying times and cost. The disadvantages:-
An inability to hang heavy radiators. (although this isn't really a disadvantage because you can)
A distasteful timbre when tapped with a finger. (this has to be subjective though, so again doesn't really count)
Can't think of any others.
I have plastered using Lime & Sand if thats what you are referring to. I agree you can support heavy items on a drylined wall so long as you have ensured studwork is situated where the fixing will be.
Not always that easy when you walk into someones home and they want a cast iron repro rad hanging on a 12mm thick piece of weetabix.
The advantages of plasterboard are, most in-experienced people can do it (thats good then i agree) once skimmed it usually dries in a day or two (also good)
Thats it, Its a quick fix method for in-experienced people. I can see you are a lover of it, fine thats your opinion but i'm not and i will never have it in my home. I mean if i could start a pole on here who likes it and who doesn't i'm sure the dislikers would win.
It sounds hollow, its a bad insulator of sound, pictures fall off the walls, rats live in there rent free, maybe even the borrowers (ok last bit is a wind up)
Keyplayer, you like it i don't. We could go on about this all week and we are probably both stubborn in our ways, but this doesn't help the OP who asked a question.
Drylining is ok if thats the way you want to go for a quick, easy remedial repair. all i will say is, If it was me i would opt for a plastered finish.
Keyplayer, You buy the beer and we will continue this in the pub mate
Not always that easy when you walk into someones home and they want a cast iron repro rad hanging on a 12mm thick piece of weetabix.
The advantages of plasterboard are, most in-experienced people can do it (thats good then i agree) once skimmed it usually dries in a day or two (also good)
Thats it, Its a quick fix method for in-experienced people. I can see you are a lover of it, fine thats your opinion but i'm not and i will never have it in my home. I mean if i could start a pole on here who likes it and who doesn't i'm sure the dislikers would win.
It sounds hollow, its a bad insulator of sound, pictures fall off the walls, rats live in there rent free, maybe even the borrowers
(ok last bit is a wind up)Keyplayer, you like it i don't. We could go on about this all week and we are probably both stubborn in our ways, but this doesn't help the OP who asked a question.
Drylining is ok if thats the way you want to go for a quick, easy remedial repair. all i will say is, If it was me i would opt for a plastered finish.
Keyplayer, You buy the beer and we will continue this in the pub mate
Transparent tiles aren't commonly used in these sorts of houses so I don't think it matters much
.Hey!
diyisfree is not the only one .lol I thought that was 'timber' spelt wrong
.rats live in there rent free, maybe even the borrowers
Not always that easy when you walk into someones home and they want a cast iron repro rad hanging on a 12mm thick piece of weetabix.
hehe your words crack me up every time
.Keyplayer, You buy the beer and we will continue this in the pub mate
Well if DIY is free, I think you can afford to buy them for all of us "diyisbwoodyexpensive'
. Well it certainly is in England anyway. I spent about £50 so far just to replace a door frame (ok it's double skinned but still) and coat it with primer and paint. Money seems to go nowhere in England. An expensive hobby eh?! Hey diyisnotfree
I got the pictures of the pipe I was telling you about:
What do you reckon, do you think my idea could work?
By the way, sorry about the mess, looks like a building site at the moment lol. I have just finished laying the concrete slab and tanking the wall, prior to plastering (not with bwoody drywall !) and tiling.Tozzy,
I'll buy you a beer mate anytime. Little hard to see what the pipe was or will be used for ?
Not sure if its a piece of 22mm copper hot feed or maybe even the overflow from the toilet ?
Give me more detail.. i love pictures give me more
I'll buy you a beer mate anytime. Little hard to see what the pipe was or will be used for ?
Not sure if its a piece of 22mm copper hot feed or maybe even the overflow from the toilet ?
Give me more detail.. i love pictures
give me moreSorry I didn't reply earlier . Been mad hot busy and trying to reach deadlines . Ah well . I don't really have the time to get more pictures. Besides, all my gear is in the way. Those 25kg bags are really heavy and I've already done my back in once lol. Anyway, I've hazarded a guess:
I can't think what else it could be and I really don't think it can be moved. I put cold supply because there used to be a sink there years ago.
. Been mad hot busy and trying to reach deadlines . Ah well . I don't really have the time to get more pictures. Besides, all my gear is in the way. Those 25kg bags are really heavy and I've already done my back in once lol. Anyway, I've hazarded a guess:
I can't think what else it could be and I really don't think it can be moved
. I put cold supply because there used to be a sink there years ago.Tozzy,
So what your saying is the cold supply wont be used ? if that is the case chase it back to its point of origin and cut it off and put a stop end on it. Then remove the pipe.
I either bury central heating pipe,s in the floor or behind the plaster..
Here look like this, the pipes for the rad used to run on the surface of the plaster in plastic conduit
Once again, 3 easy steps
So what your saying is the cold supply wont be used ? if that is the case chase it back to its point of origin and cut it off and put a stop end on it. Then remove the pipe.
I either bury central heating pipe,s in the floor or behind the plaster..
Here look like this, the pipes for the rad used to run on the surface of the plaster in plastic conduit
Once again, 3 easy steps
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