So you want a lock without a key?
Any large handle could be fitted independently of A lock .
Any large handle could be fitted independently of A lock .
Recommendation for a Garage Door Lock?
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Independant of the lock maybe, but not independant of the latch. If the handle's completely independant of any lock or latch it's completely non functional isn't it? How would it be operated? It would need a separate key and two hands I'd imagine.
Ideally I need to have a handle, which can turn a latch, which can release the door so that it can be pulled open. If I wanted to lock the door I could install a separate deadbolt, but that needn't be at hand height, it could be anywhere in the door. None of this would be an issue if I had room to position a sash lock comfortably, but it's not so simple in the case of this door.
The uPVC french doors on my garden room do what I want superbly, and so would that Briton outside access device if it wasn't so bulky. I'm just discovering that there isn't anything similar for timber doors.
If the handle's completely independant of any lock or latch it's completely non functional isn't it?
No simple ball catch , it makes it easier to open than a handle you need to turn especially if you are infirm .A door knob like the one you listed is difficult to turn if you have a weak wrist or it’s wet .
Stumble while holding a conventional door handle or knob and it’s difficult to hold on while a D handle provides a good support ( which is why they are used around homes for elderly or infirm)
No simple ball catch , it makes it easier to open than a handle you need to turn especially if you are infirm .A door knob like the one you listed is difficult to turn if you have a weak wrist or it’s wet .
Stumble while holding a conventional door handle or knob and it’s difficult to hold on while a D handle provides a good support ( which is why they are used around homes for elderly or infirm)
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This is my fallback position: https://www.safe.co.uk/products/willenhall-m3-5-lever-sashlock-50mm.html
I’ve found a 50mm mortice lock small enough to fit in the 70mm stile, (hopefully). But this would have to go where that rebated grip is currently positioned, which I’m not sure about technically, because I presume I’d have to remove that and a glue a piece of wood over the front which could end up being a weak repair holding in a lock. On the other hand presumably a good faceplate would cover it up?
I’ve found a 50mm mortice lock small enough to fit in the 70mm stile, (hopefully). But this would have to go where that rebated grip is currently positioned, which I’m not sure about technically, because I presume I’d have to remove that and a glue a piece of wood over the front which could end up being a weak repair holding in a lock. On the other hand presumably a good faceplate would cover it up?
ideal hand height. Above it would be even better, but the mortise and tenon joint is there and I don't want to cut that. Overall this entire section occupies the best position for any handle. It also matches the handle heights of the adjacent 3 doors (kitchen, garden room, side gate).
waist height?
Currently elbow height, which works for me. But you have a point, there's probably scope for situating it even lower down. I would have liked it to be closer in height to the other doors around the patio for visual consistency, but if that's too tricky then at least I can fit something that works.
Anything that doesn't require a key to open on the inside of that door is only one piece of broken glass away from a break in.
On my side door I have a digital/mechanical lock. All that is needed is to set up the code and remember it. Press the correct series of buttons, in any order and it is unlocked. press one wrong digit and it stays locked. If anyone needs to get in, in my absence then I can just tell them the code and if necessary - the code can be easily changed afterwards.
It can latch via door opening out, or in. Once the correct code is entered, it remains unlocked, until the door is opened and reclosed.
Even when locked, there is a handle on the inside to instantly release it. One of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402825220238
They suggest they are not designed for outdoor use, but many suggest they are fine outside and mine has been too.
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You can type the code in the wrong order and the door will unlock.
Andy
Andy
this seems to be going on and on and on.
It seems to me that there is a need for a latch that can be hand operated to open the door when it is not locked, or after it has been unlocked which is the same thing, and that it must have a handle that is easy to pull, and not separate from the action of unlatching, so it can be operated one-hand.
i see no reason why it should not have a common tubular mortice latch, or a roller latch, fitted at any convenient height that does not interfere with the M&T constructions, and can be reached by hand.
And as a "handle" meeting the requirement,
some are sold as simple ring pulls with no spindle, but the ones sold with a Suffolk latch do have a spindle socket. Some of the sets include two rings, a spindle, and a latch that you could cut off and throw away.
bolt-through fixing would be advisable.
it can supplement any kind of key or combination lock that has no latching action.
It seems to me that there is a need for a latch that can be hand operated to open the door when it is not locked, or after it has been unlocked which is the same thing, and that it must have a handle that is easy to pull, and not separate from the action of unlatching, so it can be operated one-hand.
i see no reason why it should not have a common tubular mortice latch, or a roller latch, fitted at any convenient height that does not interfere with the M&T constructions, and can be reached by hand.
And as a "handle" meeting the requirement,
some are sold as simple ring pulls with no spindle, but the ones sold with a Suffolk latch do have a spindle socket. Some of the sets include two rings, a spindle, and a latch that you could cut off and throw away.
bolt-through fixing would be advisable.
it can supplement any kind of key or combination lock that has no latching action.
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What about a Euro cylinder?
You can get them keyed or thumbturn on one side.
They won't lock on closure, you need a key.
Personally, when we had a door that opened out on a building at work, with a central doorhandle/lock, we added simple shed style mortise locks to and bottom to help prevent jemmying.
You can also add a T profile to seal the gaps
You can get them keyed or thumbturn on one side.
They won't lock on closure, you need a key.
Personally, when we had a door that opened out on a building at work, with a central doorhandle/lock, we added simple shed style mortise locks to and bottom to help prevent jemmying.
You can also add a T profile to seal the gaps
Which is what I said I quote my earlier post.....
1234 to unlock, works just as well to unlock as 3421. Mistakenly add for instance a 5 in there, like this 12534 and it remains locked - and needs to be cleared with the C button.
It also meets the requirement for one-handed unlock and opening, plus the op isn't too concerned about it being high security. It would be unlikely a burgler would get in via guessing the correct number combination, but they potentially could smash the lock off.
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