Redfyre centramatic problem

[tony_p]

Hi Oilhead, does the wick just lie in the bottom of the pot or is it fixed with the self tapping screw and small metal plate which were fixed to the pot by the ignitor and draped below the ignitor?
Also, there are some old ignitors at the side of the boiler and they all have the braided wire slightly bent in the middle. Is this to ensure its raised off the wick?
When raising the pot back into position, there is a label that says until it just touches. I guess its a feel thing; too loose = smells; too tight = the bottom of the pot will distort
I picked some wick up today and have a new ignitor - but can't do anything until weekend because I'm working away.
Your help is very much appreciated

 

[Terrywookfit]

Make sure the mating faces are clean and seat.
Fit the pot loosely and rotate left and right whilst tightening to ensure it is seated properly , Then give it a nip more
A badly seated pot will soot badly.

As regards wicks. I can not recall a Centramatic round pot or the later oblong one or a Danesmore or Agamatic burner with one.
If the coil heats properly ( Glowing bright red) the braided tongue will have no problem igniting a few drops of Kero.
Unless you have low voltage or the TXFR is fooked.!!!

Try it with a small amount in a spoon.

 

[tony_p]

Out of interest, what is the voltage across the ignitor?

 

[oilhead]

As I said earlier, the wick is held by the clamp, and lies just under the glowcoil braid, if the braid touches the wick, then bend it up. Clearance of 3-4 mm is ample, as long as it touches nothing .
I can't remember offhand what the voltage is, but pretty sure it is DC. Follow the leads back to the transformer and you should find a label on there.

 

[tony_p]

Thanks oilhead - I guess I could set it all up with the pot out of the boiler.
I'll put a meter across the leads and measure the voltage. Its just because I have a few old ignitors which look in good condition and they are difficult to get - I think I have the last from my local store! I can then test them and discard the ones that don't work

 

[oilhead]

If you have a 'new' ignitor, then measure the resistance to compare with your old stock.

 

[Terrywookfit]

Ignitors were cheap 45 years ago, they were frequently changed to give trouble free service for 12 months / next service...Other components rarely failed. Carbon build up and lack of maintenance was main cause of breakdown.

I still have a Teddington Flue stat if ever you need one. (Which I very much doubt),

 

[tony_p]

Thank you thank you thank you - can't say it enough.
The boiler works.
Oilhead and Terrywookfit, I feel so humble - you have really helped me understand how the thing works.
Actually found that the lead/connection between the transformer and the ignitor was a bad connection (had volts at the transformer but not at the ignitor) so replaced that and ignitor heated up instantly.
Did all the other things mentioned and it worked. Great

 

[tony_p]

Need more guidance.
The boiler fires up okay but there is quite a heavy smell of oil.
I haven't swept/cleaned the flue and am wondering whether that could be the problem (how do you clean it)
Or is it something else.

 

[oilhead]

The casing around the boiler can be removed, but do it carefully, it's fragile. The problem is more likely to be the fan going slowly. A good dosing of WD40 may make a difference.

 

[tony_p]

Never thought of that - I'll give the fan a hoover and a squirt.
The oil smell has diminished but now the thing starts, runs and heats for about 10 or more minutes then goes to lockout. Switch it off and on and it does the same - runs/heats for 10 mins then locks out.
I'm wondering if something is stopping the oil flow.
Am off tomorrow so will have a look but any ideas?

 

[oilhead]

Suspect the Flue Stat not resetting.

 

[Terrywookfit]

Suspect the Flue Stat not resetting.

If the Teddington flue stat sticks in the hot position the DAS does not recycle.

It stops the motor when it detects heat.

 

[Terrywookfit]

It could be one of the solenoids coils going o/c.

 

[tony_p]

How do I check/test the flue stat and where is it?
Terrywookfit - you mentioned you had a spare. Maybe I could buy it off you just in case?
I'm guessing it would not be "good" if its a faulty solenoid - probably can't get those anymore.
Interestingly, I when there yesterday, it was on lockout when I arrived so switched off then on and it ran without going to lockout in the 2 hours I was there.
The boiler hasn't really been used for 10 years because the house remained empty after my father passed away. So its just now that my daughter has moved in that we are trying to get everything working. Maybe a few cycles will help - its certainly gets the water/rads hot!