removing a radiator - how do i shut the valve

[chrishutt]

You have the right idea, lorraine, but it would be simpler to take the head off one of the other Danfoss TRVs and fit it on the valve body (as someone suggested above), assuming that you have other TRVs of the same design.

The heads are removed in 2 ways, depending on age (post a pic?). Some are held on with a clamp tightened with a screw, others with a small grub screw operated by an allen key. If you can loosen the clamp and pull/twist the head off, then push it on to the valve body, clamp and close the valve.

I think at this rate you'll be too advanced for basic plumbing by September.

 

[lorraine]

hello again,

all the other valves in my house look like this

they say danfoss on them, so I think they are of the right sort. I had a quick little feel and I could feel what felt like a protrusion on the skirting board side of the valve, i just couldnt' tell what it was?

thanks again.

lorraine

 

[doitall]

yes Lorraine thats the one, to remove it you turn the knurled bit

this is the older style

 

[lorraine]

hi thanks for the superfast replies,

this might sound like a stupid question but which way do i turn it? from that picture say i was standing on the left looking towards the valve and then the radiator, would it be clockwise or anticlockwise?

I just remember the guy at the demo going, the radiator nuts are left handed threads!

and the radiator valve i take the "TRV" off, will that leak? or is it self sealing?

sorry for all the what may seem stupid questions.

lorraine

 

[chrishutt]

OK, they're of quite recent design. First open the valve fully (setting 5), then you have to hold the head in one hand and twist the black splined part with the other hand. You will feel it move in one direction (can't remember which) - twist it as fas as it will go and the head should release from the body.

Then you have to put it on the other valve body. If you look inside the head, you will see 2 small metal lugs which disappear when you twist the head as described above. It's these lugs that hold the head on.

If you twist the head fully, it should click into the "open" position so that the lugs are held in. It will then be easier to fit the head. Once on, the lugs will automatically engage. Then just close the head (to 0 or * settings).

 

[doitall]

Grab a hold of the nut with your right hand and turn it towards you and pull the head off.

Pssssssssssst the nut will only go one way and it springs back

having read that the mod will be out to sensor it

MOD

dream on

 

[chrishutt]

Lorraine, would we tell you to take the head off if it was then going to leak over your lovely carpet?

 

[lorraine]

YAY I DID IT!!! crikey you wouldn't believe how happy i am. I first had a got at my bathroom one, and that was stiff so then went for the living room one and that popped off.

the one in my bahtroom felt like it had a button almost which had to be pushed in.

now i look at it, it looks like the valve with the plastic broken bit.

is it possible just to go buy the white bit that plugs on the end?

thanks to everyone who helped me, I think its so rewarding and it made my day. I even went out and bought a new spanner to take my radiators off. its the start of my plumbing toolkit.. hehe its made by some company called snap on? are they any good? anyway i'm so happy!

lorraine

 

[doitall]

what you do now is pull the green thing (cap) off and put the head from the lounge rad on that rad then turn it as far as it will go.

 

[chrishutt]

Congratulations on successfully completing your first task. Now you now why plumbers are so happy all the time.

I really think you have the makings of a plumber - it's mainly about attitude! Go for it.

And if you ever get stuck, you know we'll all fall over ourselves to help you out on this forum (well, up to a point).

 

[wilhelm]

and that was stiff so then went for the living room one and that popped off.

Now you now why plumbers are so happy all the time.

 

[ChrisR]

some company called snap on? are they any good?

One of the world's best, though more for mechanics than plumbers. The tools hanging up behind the plumbers' merchants counter are usually fine.

 

[lorraine]

hi everyone

upon further reading, I have just realised why everyone has been having a chuckle due to the innuendos (spelling)!

I have succesfully managed to remove the radiator by attaching a different TRV head piece from another radiator. Thanks for all the help with that. I took it off and loads of black water came out. Is that good?

My latest problem, is the lockshield valve. Its leaking at the union I think its called! Not leaking very much, so I have stuffed a cloth into it but its not ideal, So I am going to reinstall the radiator tonight unless you can buy caps to go over them?

also whilst looking in the lockshied valve I noticed what appeared to be a rubber washer but upon further inspection it looked like silicone? is this normal. I thought ptfe tape was the way to go? anyway it was damaged so I would have had to replace anyway.

when i refit the radiator would I have to replace the silicone (if so what is it?) or do I just use ptfe tape?

sorry for all the questions again. I hope not to have to bother you guys in future as I have sent off my money to enrol on the plumbing course!

thanks again

Lorraine.

 

[kevplumb]

1/2"" blanking plug

 

[chrishutt]

Hi lorraine, so you have a leak on the union connection of the lockshield valve. That's the big nut (there's no escape from sexual innuendo when talking about plumbing) between the l/s valve and the radiator. You need to put some form of sealant on the mating surfaces (the two conical surfaces that are forced together when the nut is tightened).

Which sealant you use doesn't matter all that much - PTFE tape, silicon, etc. - plumbers have their own favorites - "jet blue" often gets a mention ,although I don't know it. This could start a long debate on the subject! When you tighten the union nut, it's best to hold the valve steady with another spanner (10" water pump pliers are very useful) to stop it twisting.

As for the black water from the rad, this is not good, but it is normal. the black stuff is the result of corrosion of steel radiators. Ideally you would add a chemical "inhibitor" when refilling the system to stop further corrosion. If the sludging (the black stuff) is really bad, you might want to "flush" the system first, but this is a bit advanced for you just now.

Good luck.