Removing immersion heater

[Worcesterman]

Well I must have removed and refitted quite a lot of immersion heaters during my time.

But I have never encountered any spanner which did not fit.

The cast iron spanners are far better than those pressed out of sheet steel.

Just my luck then. I’ve never removed one before. All ready to try to get it out and hoping I am not going to break the tank and none of the standard immersion spanners fit.

 

[Worcesterman]

Maybe hire a big Stillson, the handle length alone will give great leverage

That’s what I’ll have to try but seems like more risky in terms of damaging the tank.

 

[Elsa TLC]

Remove cable and buy a proper heavy immersion spanner.

It will fit. Tap anticlockwise with a hammer.

Be sure cylinder is empty

 

[Johntheo5]

Did you remove the wireS from the thermostat??, even if you did, as suggested elsewhere, test or gtt the stat tested, if you can't use a multimeter it may have failed, you can just pull this out of its pocket. Does it click if you turn the setting up & down?, if it does, press in the reset button (hi limit), reattach the wireS and see does the immersion now work. You should also test the element resistance, ~ 17/18 ohms.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Be sure cylinder is empty

You can run the water out of the loft header tank, by opening a hot water tap, to drain it, but how can the op drain the cylinder?

I would have thought, a cylinder is more rigid, when full of water anyway? The above drain process, will get the level down to just spilling a pint or two, when the immersion is released.

 

[Agile]

Remove cable and buy a proper heavy immersion spanner.

It will fit. Tap anticlockwise with a hammer.

Be sure cylinder is empty

I have always first loosened the immersion elements with the cylinder full of water as that makes them more rigid and the weight prevents the cylinder rotating!

But I usually start with a hammer blow on the end of my cast iron spanner.

 

[pete01]

I have always first loosened the immersion elements with the cylinder full of water as that makes them more rigid and the weight prevents the cylinder rotating!

But I usually start with a hammer blow on the end of my cast iron spanner.

Yes always crack first, then drain.

 

[Elsa TLC]

I have always first loosened the immersion elements with the cylinder full of water as that makes them more rigid and the weight prevents the cylinder rotating!

But I usually start with a hammer blow on the end of my cast iron spanner.

You do make a good point. And i should have been more clear.
Its how well equipped Worcestman is.
Me and you will have a water Vac available and a knowledge on how to deal with the safe draining of the cylinder. And how to deal if the immersion doesn't seal again.

Also make a vacuumed by plugging the feed and vent.

bottom entry are more difficult to deal with, as the are awkward

You can run the water out of the loft header tank, by opening a hot water tap, to drain it, but how can the op drain the cylinder?

I would have thought, a cylinder is more rigid, when full of water anyway? The above drain process, will get the level down to just spilling a pint or two, when the immersion is released.

There may be a draincock!
I have a Milwaukee pump that I can insert a hose on top outlet of cylinder, the pump then syphons the cylinder until it's empty.
It doesn't it 10, 20, 30 Xs the speed of gravity

 

[HERTS P&D]

The Milwaukee pump empties cylinders in 18 minutes.

Andy

 

[Elsa TLC]

The Milwaukee pump empties cylinders in 18 minutes.

Andy

You've timed it???

 

[HERTS P&D]

Yes, I wanted to see how much time I was saving..



Andy

 

[Elsa TLC]

Yes, I wanted to see how much time I was saving..



Andy

That's the problem with us plumbers. We invest money in tools that make the job quicker and the job cheaper, for the customer.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

There may be a draincock!
I have a Milwaukee pump that I can insert a hose on top outlet of cylinder, the pump then syphons the cylinder until it's empty.
It doesn't it 10, 20, 30 Xs the speed of gravity

Yes, but at the risk of attempting to undo a top connection, on an old cylinder, which might be similarly seized, like the immersion element. Once the element is out, it's easy to syphon drain the cylinder.

 

[Elsa TLC]

Yes, but at the risk of attempting to undo a top connection, on an old cylinder, which might be similarly seized, like the immersion element. Once the element is out, it's easy to syphon drain the cylinder.

You'd always drain the CWST first.

Then crack the ¾ nut on cylinder with ya Milwaukee 18volt wet vac to hand.

If I were in fanny mode I may plug off the cold feed and vent.

Generally goes well. I'd just advise anyone to be careful and be prepared.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

You'd always drain the CWST first.

Of course, that is what I suggested.