Inspected the pump and it seems OK. No grit inside, just a light black film coating the impeller and pump internals. It passed the finger test too...I could stop it but only if I pushed down quite hard.
Hmmm...the symptoms have changed a bit. With pre-heat and CH off and the hot tap running, the rads are now getting hot...diverter valve problem? I'm pretty sure the rads remained cold when I tested this before changing the h/ex.
I have taken the head off the valve and it had been weeping for a while (the clip was badly corroded) but the valve head is actuating when expected and the pin inside the diverter valve seems to be moving up and down fairly freely.
I've tried pushing the pin in and letting it come out again a few times yesterday...at most, i got a 1s burst of warmish water out of the taps and it then went cool again. The pin seemed to move freely. If the pin is moving does that mean that the valve internals are also moving (i.e. they are mechanically joined) or could the pin be moving while the valve itself remains stuck? Will try pushing the pin again to make sure I'm getting the same thing now.
The boiler (Potterton Performa 28i) does have a black actuator on top of the valve. It connects to the pcb via a 3 pin plug. fyi, this is the boiler manual...
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