Renault master brake discs.

[camerart]

Hi,

Just got a quote for replacing rear discs and pads, plus oil and filter on my Renault master over £400.

Regarding the discs and pads, I think I might do it myself, just waiting for a quote for parts. I've done it before, but I had a mechanic talking me through it. Can anyone tell me anything that I might have problems with, or need to buy before starting to strip it down, please?

Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

Depending on the model....
Some have a disc / drum combination on the back, but if yours has just discs alone, try and find out which way you need to turn the pistons with the retracting tool....something tells me its anticlockwise on these.
John

 

[camerart]

Depending on the model....
Some have a disc / drum combination on the back, but if yours has just discs alone, try and find out which way you need to turn the pistons with the retracting tool....something tells me its anticlockwise on these.
John

Hi,
Just discs. When I did it before, I don't think I used a tool, as mentioned in another thread here. I think I could work it out once I get my eyes closer You don't mention the discs, are there no surprised there?

Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

Sometimes you can get by without the retractor tool, sometimes its nigh on impossible....however, if you've done the job before it'll all come back.
No issues with the job, just make sure the hub face is completely clean from rust and apply a thin smear of grease before popping the new disc back on.
John

 

[camerart]

Sometimes you can get by without the retractor tool, sometimes its nigh on impossible....however, if you've done the job before it'll all come back.
No issues with the job, just make sure the hub face is completely clean from rust and apply a thin smear of grease before popping the new disc back on.
John

Hi John,

Just received a quote for parts: £316.44 Brake pads and discs and oil and filters. As the quote for fitting is about £400, it doesn't seem that bad. (All Renault) so I've booked it in. What happened to those £40 for parts days?

Thanks Camerart.

 

[Peter.N.]

Have a look on here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...discs.TRS0&_nkw=renault+master+discs&_sacat=0

 

[Burnerman]

Probably a bit late in the day now, but I'm tending to specify NDL Blueprint stuff these days......discs say £20 each, Pads £30, oil filter £6 and so on.
Main dealer parts are true robbery!
John

 

[camerart]

Looks like I was a bit too hasty, I've booked it in now.

The problem appears to be that I don't use the van enough to keep the disks clear of rust, and this in turn wears the pads.

C.

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, its the old story - especially where there are discs on the back. My 61 plate Audi (32k) has crumbly rear discs now.
John

 

[camerart]

Yep, its the old story - especially where there are discs on the back. My 61 plate Audi (32k) has crumbly rear discs now.
John

Looking at the discs, there seems to be about 60% of them clear and working. Last MOT there was an advisory, saying the rear brakes are poor. (The tester didn't mention the discs were rusty, and I assume he should have looked at them!) I've been puzzling how to fit a wiper or drip, that puts some coating on them to seal out moisture. Obviously oil would be out but as long as it doesn't lower the braking enough to fail the MOT, or be dangerous, it would average out better in the long run. Just a thought.

C.

 

[Burnerman]

The answer is out of our scope, really......the discs could be made out of stainless steel or other alloys which would corrode less. In to this has to be engineered the production costs and things like friction coefficients - so I guess we'll just have to put up with it.
With the introduction of asbestos free pads, the discs get a harder time than before, and consequently the pads wear less.
Certainly the top end manufacturers use discs with a higher chromium content which last better, but obviously are a lot more expensive to renew. I have had some success with drilled and grooved discs though - they do last better rust wise.
John

 

[camerart]

The answer is out of our scope, really......the discs could be made out of stainless steel or other alloys which would corrode less. In to this has to be engineered the production costs and things like friction coefficients - so I guess we'll just have to put up with it.
With the introduction of asbestos free pads, the discs get a harder time than before, and consequently the pads wear less.
Certainly the top end manufacturers use discs with a higher chromium content which last better, but obviously are a lot more expensive to renew. I have had some success with drilled and grooved discs though - they do last better rust wise.
John

One reason for being biased towards Renault genuine parts is for this reason. Earlier in the year I changed the battery, as starting was becoming a problem I changed the battery, which was still the original, so over ten years old. I have never come across such a long life battery before. And it turns out it was the starter motor. ( I bought an ebay one)

C.

 

[Burnerman]

With rear disc systems, I have to recommend that they are stripped for cleaning every 12 months......it keeps the hand brake sweeter too.
Its rare that I replace rear pads due to normal wear - they are either well corroded or unevenly worn due to the disc rust lip or sticking in the caliper.
Curiously enough, one vehicle manufacturer that seems to be above the rest in this area is the Kia, but I've no idea why......certainly the caliper retaining brackets remain largely rust free. Try that on a VW!
John

 

[camerart]

I was talking to a mechanic who said that he changes loads of Master rear discs. I wonder why such an advanced vehicle has problems, that didn't use to happen as much?

As for stripping each year, perhaps a wiper of some sort, that skimmed the surface of the disc would work or perhaps just run with the rear handbrake rubbing for a while. Obviously, only for use low mileage people.

C.

 

[Burnerman]

A more abrasive pad material would help......so long as the discs weren't destroyed in a few thousand miles!
Its the pads sticking in the caliper thats the main issue - after all they'll only move a millimetre or so every 10k miles so its partly expected. More often than not I have to knock them free with a hammer and chisel.
John