Replace block wall with stud wall

Poe

Joined
2 Dec 2014
Messages
103
Reaction score
3
Country
United Kingdom
Could I replace the block wall in the photo with a load bearing stud wall.
The blocks in the existing wall are some kind of light weight block and can easily be gouged with a screwdriver blade.
The wall is poorly constructed and the mortar is crumbling under the roof joists.
It is tied into the cavity walls and don't want to loose stability.
I would look to build the stud wall using 2x4 C24 with double header plate and studs under each joist before removing the block wall.
Would this seem ok, any advice would be great.
Thanks
IMG_20250328_125947.jpg
IMG_20250328_125947.jpg
IMG_20250328_125825.jpg
IMG_20250328_125724.jpg
 
Would probably work in principle if the loadings worked but the wall might also be providing lateral support to the side walls it’s joined to.
 
Thanks blup,
It's more this that I'm unsure of with regards to lateral support.
Is there a way of deducing if this is the case?
 
It won't be providing any lateral support

You may need to fit timber board - ply or OSB to at least one side to provide racking resistance. Or some more elaborate diagonal bracing within the frame. It depends on the loads
 
Thanks blup,
It's more this that I'm unsure of with regards to lateral support.
Is there a way of deducing if this is the case?

The block wall is obviously designed to provide some lateral support, to the inner cavity, on the left, because it is keyed in to it, so that support needs to be maintained.
 
Last edited:
The block wall is obviously designed to provide some lateral support, to the inner cavity, on the left, because it is keyed in to it, so that support needs to be maintained.

Or it's keyed in to provide lateral support to the block wall itself. Ive done the same swap in my house - failed due to only tied in above the door frame at the other end - the door action literally shook the wall to bits.
 
Thanks guys,
Slightly differing opinions.
Is there any way the add lateral with a stud wall in addition to lining the faces with ply?

cdbe my wall is only tied into the one wall the other end (above the door) isn't tied as you can see they have used two blocks day on their ends.

The plasterboard passes over the top of the wall so it's sandwiches between the wall and the ceiling joist which I think normally indicates its not load bearing.

It's now more the lateral support that could be an issue, I don't mind "over engineering" the new stud wall for peace of mind.
 
Mine was just the same, a single plasterboard in an
"L" shape around the door on each side made mine sufficiently rigid but you could put ply or OSB on first.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top