Replacement alarm control panel.

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My current alarm control panel is due for replacement as it is breaking up and does not isolate certain zones.
It is at least 15 years old and my question is , is replacement within the capabilities of someone who has a basic knowledge of electrics.
ie I have replaced light switches and fitted new spurs etc.
In addition what type of panel will be compatible with the existing panel.


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Yes it's within capabilities if you're fairly savvy, they're not that difficult judging by my DIY experience of changing mine. Remember fitting a DIY system probably won't be recognised by your insurance company tho, if this is a consideration.

Inside the control panel there'll be a 240v power feed, and probably a battery back-up. There'll be a pair of wires going to each zone, some wires going to your keypad (assuming you have one, I don't "know" panels and it won't let me enlarge your picture), output wires for your internal speaker/horn, and for your external siren/strobe, and it might also be connected to your phone line if your panel has that function. You might choose to connect your new system to your phone line?

AFAIK most systems work on 12 volt DC, and the only parts which need to be compatible are the control panel and the keypad. All the other existing sensors/siren etc can be programmed into your new system. It's really a case of noting down (and understanding) where the old wires come off, and where to fit them on the new panel. Therefore I reckon any panel/keypad combo you buy will be compatible with your existing system. I went for a new panel from the same manufacturer as my old one tho, maybe it made it easier, maybe it saved me some time messing about with tamper resistors etc, maybe not?

Some (maybe most?) alarms have a siren which will sound when tampered with. They work by being constantly fed a "hold off" power feed. If yours is like this then at some point during your disconnection your siren will sound until you remove it from the wall and figure out how to reset it, or until it's own internal back-up battery has drained, (or maybe you could somehow feed it a temporary hold off?). It might be an idea to start here - figure out how to silence it.

Regarding choosing a new panel I have found that some systems have a speech/text dialler in-built so it calls/texts out if the alarm is triggered. Beware that some of the more professional units are really geared towards contacting an Alarm Receiving Centre (ARC) like ADT etc for a monthly fee. Others, however, are more geared towards phoning/texting you, the owner. Do a bit of homework and get a panel which does everything you want it to.

Hope this limited info is of some use :)
 
Not all systems use two wires. Some use six wires per sensor.

1 supply positive
2 supply negative 12 volt supply to power the sensor, not all sensors require power, PIRs do, simple door contacts do not.

3
4 alarm loop, the sensor links these when there is no activity and opens when motion, door open, glass shattered etc etc
5
6 tamper loop. if the cable is cut the breaking of this loop indicates a tamper.

Some systems combine tamper and alarm into one loop but use resistors to differenciate between alarm and tamper conditions.
 
to replace this panel your best bet is a texecom veritas 8 not compact it will cover the space of the old optima panel, you could go for the new version of the optima G4, but I think you will find the veritas better to program.
 
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Thanks everybody for your advice, however its just occurred to me that I should have included a pic of its innards as this may help .
I have also just had a quote for a new battery , £39 from Maplins !!!

 
Thanks everybody for your advice, however its just occurred to me that I should have included a pic of its innards as this may help .
I have also just had a quote for a new battery , £39 from Maplins !!!

Allowing us to view the piccie enlarged would help more.
 
Thanks everybody for your advice, however its just occurred to me that I should have included a pic of its innards as this may help .
I have also just had a quote for a new battery , £39 from Maplins !!!

Allowing us to view the piccie enlarged would help more.

It enlarges if you double click on my computer.
On the other hand I don't know what else to do so you can enlarge it, any tips advice etc.?
 
the message for the rest of us says


An Error Has Occurred
You do not have permission to view this file.


expect there is a view-permit or privacy setting on your album or profile.
 
the message for the rest of us says


An Error Has Occurred
You do not have permission to view this file.


expect there is a view-permit or privacy setting on your album or profile.

Apologies, you were correct, hopefully this is ok now. :oops: :oops:
 
I have also just had a quote for a new battery , £39 from Maplins !!!

Try ebay. I'd guess maybe less than half that price? The important things are written on your existing battery, just make sure you match it. A cheap make probably won't last as long as a good make - at half the price you might need to replace it after 5 years instead of 7 or something. Remember the battery for your potential new system might need to be a different physical size too.

Also bear in mind I'm not an alarm expert, just a fairly competent DIYer who's picked up a bit of info on a lot of subjects over the years.
 
search for "Yuasa SLA" batteries, I've found them very good. They are widely sold, and yes, also on ebay.
 
Not all systems use two wires. Some use six wires per sensor.

I apologise, my system actually has two pairs of wires per sensor - a pair for the power feed and a pair for the sensor, which also cover the tamper circuit using resistors. Sorry for being misleading.
 
bigger battery the better , that's why I would recommend not fitting a compact as you are limited to the 2.1 ah battery you can pick up 7.0ah yuasa for sub £20
 
remembering that the charger and fuse in your panel may not be sized for a significantly bigger battery than designed for
 

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