No, and I wouldnt. And I'm just a keen DIYer. Anything "Made in China" cant be as good as that made in France, Germany or UK, expecially when its half the price.Thats real quality stuff mate.
Have you used it?
replacement CU
- Thread starter ajrobb
- Start date
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I hvaen't installed one and wouldn't touch it with a pair of sterilised surgical tweezers.
I have had the displeasure to do some work inside one. Nasty, cheap floppy box. No proper space for cabling.
Can say about the quality of the components. They will have been tested to comply with the necessary standard (but then so will those Wylex CBs )
I have had the displeasure to do some work inside one. Nasty, cheap floppy box. No proper space for cabling.
Can say about the quality of the components. They will have been tested to comply with the necessary standard (but then so will those Wylex CBs
)I think I've read that Wylex are good but apparently not the cheapest.Thats real quality stuff mate.
And?
Whats this obsession with the cheapest **** you can find?Sponsored Links
yes, that is usually the case especially with stuff like clothes, tools, etc.
Surely products such as consumer units have to be manufactured to meet a set of standards. And this product says it meets IEC60439-3, EN60439-3 of which there are BS equivalents.
I'm guessing the major difference will be longevity/durability (e.g. on cheaper ones the case may become brittle over time with uv exposure, or the main switch will wear out quicker if for some wild reason you switch it on and off all the time.)
That's not to say it isn't suitable, and it will *probably* last until the natural time comes to replace it again (which won't be long considering the number of times I hear of a recommendation to replace a consumer unit which is wholly unnecessary.
Like yourself, I have not used this brand, but I have heard of others using them and not having any significant problems.
To be honest, it looks identical to a Clipsal board made by GET, so it's probably an OEM jobbie.
Surely products such as consumer units have to be manufactured to meet a set of standards. And this product says it meets IEC60439-3, EN60439-3 of which there are BS equivalents.
I'm guessing the major difference will be longevity/durability (e.g. on cheaper ones the case may become brittle over time with uv exposure, or the main switch will wear out quicker if for some wild reason you switch it on and off all the time.)
That's not to say it isn't suitable, and it will *probably* last until the natural time comes to replace it again (which won't be long considering the number of times I hear of a recommendation to replace a consumer unit which is wholly unnecessary.
Like yourself, I have not used this brand, but I have heard of others using them and not having any significant problems.
To be honest, it looks identical to a Clipsal board made by GET, so it's probably an OEM jobbie.
Only 'cos I am paying for it.And?
I stumped up for the Wylex kit in time for the electricity board hopefully to leave me suitable length tails when they fit the isolator today.I've got the first fit inspection on Wednesday. All of the circuits are broken apart from the 10mm² cooker point radial. The broken circuits are all either 2.5 or 1.5mm². Can I just terminate the broken circuits cables in some terminal block inside the CU until I am ready to connect them? In fact, if I secure the terminal block and have only one wire per terminal, can I make it a permanent fixture in case the cables are too short to reach the RCBOs?
Only 'cos I am paying for it.
I've got the first fit inspection on Wednesday. All of the circuits are broken apart from the 10mm² cooker point radial. The broken circuits are all either 2.5 or 1.5mm². Can I just terminate the broken circuits cables in some terminal block inside the CU until I am ready to connect them? In fact, if I secure the terminal block and have only one wire per terminal, can I make it a permanent fixture in case the cables are too short to reach the RCBOs?
The DNO will not provide you with meter tails or an earth connection. That is your responsibility.
Are the bonding conductors the right size for your supply type?
Re using terminal block inside a CU. You can, but personally I think it looks poo. If the conductor must be extended I prefer to use crimps and a proper crimp tool.
Crimp, or put an enclosure with a DIN rail above the CU, use through-terminals mounted on the rail to extend the cables.
If circuits have been disconnected you don't need to put choc-block on the ends of the cables, just pull them out of the CU and tuck them out of the way.
If circuits have been disconnected you don't need to put choc-block on the ends of the cables, just pull them out of the CU and tuck them out of the way.
Thats real quality stuff mate.
Have you used it?
I have & they are ok.
Really??
I once had the mis fortune to install one which was supplied by a customer.
I certainly would never buy kit like that, and I will also now refuse to fit it for any customer who wants to supply that sort of $h1te.
I once had the mis fortune to install one which was supplied by a customer.
I certainly would never buy kit like that, and I will also now refuse to fit it for any customer who wants to supply that sort of $h1te.
You are right, no new tails, he simply cut new ends to fit in the isolator switch.
The earth bonding from the distribution board is 6mm². Originally, the 6mm² earth/bond was taken to the SS kitchen sink to guarantee instant heart failure if you touched live at the sink. The bonding/earth conductor in the original 2.5mm² 2C+E is less than 1.5mm².
I am talking about the bonding conductors that connect to your incomng water, gas, oil etc.
What is your supply type?
What is your supply type?
Thats real quality stuff mate.
Have you used it?
Yes, I have quite a few for temporary installations. We had to provide 80 radials for a DSSO rated at 16A each for a hairdressing competition and purchased 18 of them. The CU's are cheap and cheerful and a bit too flimsey for my liking but being fairly soft are not too brittle. At the price we have no problem bining them when they get broken and they are not cramped. The MCB's, RCD's & RCBO's are ok, I think they are the same as GET but the range is limited.
For the average domestic install they are ok but not as nice as a good one.
I didnt realise there was a 2nd page when I posted.
I am changing accessible water pipes to plastic and the heating pipes will be plastic to avoid bonding. The water supply pipe is already plastic. The 6mm² bonding conductor for the original SS sink runs behind where the boiler will be, so the gas fitters can use it if they want to bond the gas pipe when they install the boiler. The Baxi Duo-Tec 24HE boiler might be less than 0.6m from the sink but won't include a built-in timer (that makes a difference in a bathroom).
With Wylex type C RCBOs on all circuits, will I need to bond the new SS sink (on plastic pipes)? I gather that circuit lengths are important for RCBO types. I'll measure the total ring length after I have finished adding sockets (I am adding 3 and moving 2). However, I am removing the ring socket from 0.7m near the sink; the nearest one will be about 2m away. That only leaves short (<15m) radial circuits 0.7m from the sink. The electric cooker or gas igniter, cooker hood, washing machine and boiler will all be on these radial circuits.
Should I run a bonding conductor from the CU to the adjacent gas meter cupboard for the gas fitters to bond the meter and gas pipes?
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