Replacing Bearings... (Tricity Bendix WDR1020)

[johndo78]

New tub seal it is then. Where can I get one?

Interestingly, it's in exceptionally good condition. Not twisted or perished anywhere and still filling the whole gap of the tub rim. But I agree, that the cost of a new seal is better than ruining everything when it fails.

The shaft isn't damaged at all, the inner race of the bearing wasn't rusted on. It was more the awkwardness of being able to get some decent leverage to get it off that was the problem. It would go further down the shaft no problem, and in the end I managed to get it to go up the way! Bronze bush is totally fine too, no damage at all.

 

[breezer]

let me ask this then

if nothing is damaged how come the bearings went?

they are usualy dmaged by overloading the m/c which cause slight oscilation in the rotaion of the shaft which then wears the seal and lets water in

when ever we did a bearing change always chenge the spider (drum support)

 

[johndo78]

No idea.

As you might have gathered from the rest of this thread, I am no expert in repairing washing machnies. I simply came here for some advice on how to progress my repair which I helpfully received. The shaft may well be damaged, but to my eye I cannot see anything obviously wrong with it.

I am naturally an optimist when it comes to fixing things and all I'm really looking for here is 6-10 months more use from the machine (dead horse!)

 

[breezer]

on the contrary i applaud you for what you are trying to achieve, i just think that you are wasting money

 

[Sleepyhead]

OK, the shaft looks fine so I'd risk using it again, based on the knowledge that you're not looking for permanent repair.
Trust me on the seal. I've done literally hundreds of these machines, two I didn't get a tub seal for and both leaked. One blew the motor and module, the other I was luckier. I didn't put the motor back in till I'd leak tested it. Mind you, had to pull them apart again to fit a new seal.
If you've pressed the new bearings in and fitted the bearing seal give the bearing seal a wipe with some silicon grease, same with the spider shaft.
Good luck with the cement block, no idea how that's going to work out, have thought about it but haven't come up with any better ideas on it.

 

[hornchurchmale]

cracked concrete( type) weights are best and easily fixed using car body repair kit eg plastic padding. mixed as a two pack and spread evenly over one surface and squeezed together. hold in place for 20 min's then its as new. fairly cheap too.
tub middle seal are often reused but any leaks will cause motor failure and other issues meaning even more expensive fix or a new machine.
do as the experts do and apply a sealer such as bathroom/silicon sealant. murder to try an split drums once applied but if you have renewed bearings once already..most machines are not really up to a second set ! in most case as everything else will need replacing by then. hence experts do it.

 

[captaincaveman1]

hornchurchmale I carnt believe your post as im sure most contributors on this site wont . An expert would never even consider to silicone round the exsisting tub seal they would simply replace it with a new seal and do the job properly and im sorry but car body filler will not bond a cement counterweight together let alone too withstand the vibration of a machine on spin .

 

[zipper]

Yep I totally agree CC1.....really silly amateur advice (+ the post is 5 years old anyhow ).

 

[hornchurchmale]

well sorry then sad that I have watched such 'experts' do video fix's as this on U-tube etc. and even advertise doing it and their company. still since you know best. a as to body filler not being up to it . i suggest you try it! it is after highly recommended for cars body work ( vibration on panels etc) and even engine blocks ( high strength) but what do I know? sorry for trying top be a help but only following so called experts advise on other site.. obviuosly this site has the other sites expert beaten.

 

[captaincaveman1]

Body filler is as you have just said in your last post "highly recommended for car bodys" certainly not concrete and I can only think you must of been watching a company such as "Bodge it n scarper " at work on you tube .