Replacing existing 30 year old double glazing - worth it?

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Afternoon All,

Recently moved into a house which needs a bit of work. Property has existing double glazing which is around 30 years old, and seems in reasonable condition ie no drafts, no condensation, although there are some cosmetic signs of age, yellowing and some stiff mechanisms. We are thinking to replace these however, as we don’t want to have to replace them in 5 years once the house is all decorated etc.

Is it worth replacing these completely, and would we likely see a bit improvement in energy performance of the house?
 
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No, chances are you will see no improvement unless there are any real problems with your existing.
Handles are easily replaced if needed and any blown panels can be replaced by a glazier, most will come out a bit over £100, a lot cheaper than the thousands new units will cost.
 
I had a similar situation, replaced with new A+ units and the difference is tremendous however somewhat limited thanks to the nanny state enforced bloody stupid trickle vents. That said the critical factor is the gap between the glass units, in my case I should say over doubled and the heat retention coating on the glass. Even if you accept the naysayers who say the gas (Argon) will leak out in a few years that's still a substantial improvement. I am surprised you have not detected drafts, in my case not only were the windows/frames warped but the gaskets had also hardened so they no longer effectively sealed.

Now someone will say I only think there good because I spent the money, you cannot win here!!
 
Changing a window won't improve energy or do anything to the EPC rating.

There are tons of other stuff you can change/improve to achieve a better energy rating overall.
 
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savings would be minimal
iff the energy loss for the house is to keep it simple is £500 and say 8% is through the windows that£40 now any savings you could achieve would only be from that amount so even iff you think you can save 10% thats only£4 as 10% off 40
now even iff your heating costs are double so savings double thats only £8 a year

actual amounts can be wildly different but iff they are not draughty then definitely not worth replacing untill every other item has been updated
 
I wouldnt change them...if they are fine then leave well alone.
 
Why would that be an issue?
Safety - fitting glazing into frames above ground level is easier, doesn't require scaffolding or off of ladders when doing that on the inside. I've even seen the fitters installing complete new frames from the inside.

Security - when glazed from the outside the retaining beading which is clipped in place, not bonded is on the outside so 'naire-do-wells' can easily and quietly remove a glazed panel to gain entry to your house.

(It was a question my contents insurance company asked - is the house double glazed? Yes; is it glazed from the outside or inside? Glazed from the out side was a % on the premium. )
 
"Security - when glazed from the outside the retaining beading which is clipped in place, not bonded is on the outside so 'naire-do-wells' can easily and quietly remove a glazed panel to gain entry to your house."
Possibly true in some very old systems, but most external glazing bars are extremely difficult (and noisy) to remove unless the internal rubber seal is removed first.
Another suggestion was that UPVC windows can be removed by partly melting the plastic frame, I suspect a myth put about by aluminum frame makers! ;)
 
Changing a window won't improve energy or do anything to the EPC rating.

There are tons of other stuff you can change/improve to achieve a better energy rating overall.
Who said anything about EPC rating, everybody should know they have little to do with heat loss and are mostly green political objectives like have you got solar panels, heat pump, underfloor heating, oil boiler, water tank thermostat, energy saving lightbulbs etc etc
 
Surely the trickle vents can be closed can't they? They can on the raft of new windows I had installed just a few months ago.
Unfortunately all the carefully crafted multiple chambers in the frame have been compromised by the bloody great slot cut through the lot and that slot is only closed off by some flimsy bit of plastic with a U value of nowt! So your expensive windows are b*ggered by the state! I would love to see the energy rating of the same window with/without this stupid rubbish BUT they are only tested without.
 
I moved into a house with Everest 1980s aluminium (with hardwood surround) double glazing. It didn't look great, as the aluminium had gone from silver to patchy silver and white. But I saw no reason to replace at first.

After a couple of winters, they were replaced. They were not draughty, and I even tried painting the inside of the frames on a couple. The major problem was that the frames were always cold, which meant they would stream with condensation. Constant puddles on the frames, with it pooling down to the hardwood surround and window cills.

Got sick of wet-vac-ing every morning, so replaced with typical modern UPVC frames. Used a small local firm, so they did what I wanted - no trickle vents. Whilst the house is not noticeably warmer or less draughty, the lack of water running down the insides is life-changing!

Cost a lot of money, though. If it wasn't for the running water, I wouldn't have done it.
 
Unfortunately all the carefully crafted multiple chambers in the frame have been compromised by the bloody great slot cut through the lot and that slot is only closed off by some flimsy bit of plastic
What happens if some expanding foam accidentally finds its way into there and then the flimsy bit of plastic is refitted?
 

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