Replacing immersion switch with extra wires

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Now just need someone to tell the op which wires go where ...
Already done.

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Yes.

Yes, of course.

The Neutral in the same cable as L IN is N IN and in the same cable as L OUT is N OUT.


Yes, of course.

Apart from the red bit, there are only the normal, expected wires.
Does it matter which N goes where? ChatGPT says:

No, it doesn't matter which blue (neutral) wire you connect to N IN and N OUT as long as:

  • One blue wire is connected to the neutral supply (mains) at N IN.
  • The other blue wire is connected to the neutral going to the load (appliance or light) at N OUT.
Since neutral wires are not polarized (unlike live wires), the important thing is to ensure continuity of the neutral connection between the mains supply and the load. Both blue wires are part of the same circuit path, so it doesn't matter which goes to N IN and which goes to N OUT.

It's done quite a good job identifying which is which btw! But I wouldn't couldn't on it ::D
 
Does it matter which N goes where? ChatGPT says:
Yes it matters. It has a double-pole switch.

When off the Ns are not connected so any clock, neons etc. would not work when any back-up method runs out.


Were there no instructions with the new switch.


I realise that the old switch was confusing but once disconnected there is nothing out of the ordinary with the wring.
 
ChatGPT says:
That and others like it just recycle whatever information was fed into it, right or wrong.

Nothing from those can be used without proper scrutiny of the results, which means it's quicker to just find the answers from a reputable source yourself.
 
That and others like it just recycle whatever information was fed into it, right or wrong.

Nothing from those can be used without proper scrutiny of the results, which means it's quicker to just find the answers from a reputable source yourself.
Of course, it was just me trying to see whether ChatGPT would work feeding it some pictures. Turns out it has an answer. A wrong one.
 
Update: All done, replaced 1 to 1, wires labeled with electrical tape, unit seems to be working fine.
 

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