Replacing main water pipe Anglia water. what to use. Help

[Jonny Vee]

About 140mm according to the specs, it's basically a plastic shroud to contain the polystyrene insulation, with the pipework inside. Your choice, but I find them a superior option to breaking out an internal floor and making good the DPM again, after you've got the duct in for the new pipe.

You are completely right. This option reduce a lot of mess. I will make a cardboard box to see how look like and if when walking will get into it.

 

[Jonny Vee]

Can someone help me to source the rest of material.

I understand I have to put a stop tap inside. Any help on spec and if anything else is needed.

Thanks

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

BES (www.bes.co.uk) will have everything you need, Screwfix will have the pipe and fittings but they dont stock the Insuduct. Plastic or brass stoptap will be fine internally.

 

[cdbe]

Don't forget - drain cock for internal stoptap, no lead allowed on your side before first potable tap, capping off/maintaining neighbours supply if it's a CSP, mechanical stopend at boundary (not the little cap that comes with the pipe). If you are running in 4" soil pipe and you have bends then consider- 2 x 45's instead of 90's - possibly cheaper than rest bend and consider feeding the pipe through the sections before you connect them all together if access is tight.
When I've done them they've inspected- trench (with tape measure) but have accepted that it can be 750mm from the future finished floor level, eg if you're having a driveway on top of what's there, they like the sand in the trench, insulation in ducting - they'll check both ends, caps on ducting - have them in place but not fitted so they can see the insulation. Stop tap, drain cock and pipework to first tap, arrangements for capping any CSP, temporary stopend at boundary. They may ask about backfilling trench (they'll want to hear that you're backfilling with xyz and compacting every 150mm).
The ones I've done they've inspected then raised the connection job (normally done within 6 weeks in my area).

 

[Jonny Vee]

BES (www.bes.co.uk) will have everything you need, Screwfix will have the pipe and fittings but they dont stock the Insuduct. Plastic or brass stoptap will be fine internally.

Thanks, I think will go for normal trench through foundation as the box come out of the wall and every time you walk on the narrow walkway can jump on it. better to avoid. Test it is a cardboard box

 

[Jonny Vee]

Don't forget - drain cock for internal stoptap, no lead allowed on your side before first potable tap, capping off/maintaining neighbours supply if it's a CSP, mechanical stopend at boundary (not the little cap that comes with the pipe). If you are running in 4" soil pipe and you have bends then consider- 2 x 45's instead of 90's - possibly cheaper than rest bend and consider feeding the pipe through the sections before you connect them all together if access is tight.
When I've done them they've inspected- trench (with tape measure) but have accepted that it can be 750mm from the future finished floor level, eg if you're having a driveway on top of what's there, they like the sand in the trench, insulation in ducting - they'll check both ends, caps on ducting - have them in place but not fitted so they can see the insulation. Stop tap, drain cock and pipework to first tap, arrangements for capping any CSP, temporary stopend at boundary. They may ask about backfilling trench (they'll want to hear that you're backfilling with xyz and compacting every 150mm).
The ones I've done they've inspected then raised the connection job (normally done within 6 weeks in my area).

HI, House is in full refurb. Going to provide stop tap and drain cock on top. Hopefully is enough.

Insulation on the pipe. I have only found 22mmx19mm wall thickness. There is no spec on the guide. Would this be enough or need a 25mm wall thickness? I will back fill with builders sand. is okay? I was thinking to put pipe into a duct and reduce trench to 300/400mm. Lady on the phone said that`s fine but not sure when someone will turn out if would be of the same opinion or will need to start again. made the cur on the concrete and weekend will try to dig to 750 and see how goes. Hopefully rain will stay away.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

750mm is the old 3ft, for frost protection, trying to get away with less and they might refuse to connect it, be warned. Dont believe anything they tell you on the phone!

You only need to bed the pipe, then cover it with enough depth of sand to protect the pipe from sharp stones and damage. Leave a bit of slack in the pipe too to allow for movement.

Can stuff the duct (if using that method) with fibreglass or similar.

 

[Jonny Vee]

750mm is the old 3ft, for frost protection, trying to get away with less and they might refuse to connect it, be warned. Dont bel;ieve anything they tell you on the phone!

You only need to bed the pipe, then cover it with enough depth of sand to protect the pipe from sharp stones and damage. Leave a bit of slack in the pipe too to allow for movement.

Can stuff the duct (if using that method) with fibreglass or similar.

That's what I said. I don't trust the lady and Will dig deep just in case. 100mm sand top and bottom is enough than will put back the soil coming from the excavation?

 

[cdbe]

I think the 19mm bylaw stuff from Wickes (not the economy stuff) will be fine. As above, I wouldn't risk less than 750mm. It's been a few years since I did mine but I recall there was mention of possible charges for reinspection following a failed inspection so not worth chancing it.

 

[Jonny Vee]

otherwise, can place an order for this one https://www.bes.co.uk/class-o-insulation-tube-7-8in-x-25-mm-x-2-m-19671/

Any Good?

 

[Luckyphil]

Have you thought about having the new Pipe moled in ??

I’m doing a refurb , the pressure on the old Lead was crap , I knew the majority of the ground under about 12” was clay and horrible to dig it out , so I got a Team in , they are registered with United Utilities our local supplier , they come out dig out about a metre square & deep at the Stop tap area & at the House entry point , install Pipe to the utility where I wanted the Pipe to come from the subfloor , fitted stop tap & drain off and connected up to the new Stop Tap that UU had fitted prior , then issued a Certificate and register it with UU all for £500

Worth considering imo

Phil

 

[Jonny Vee]

Have you thought about having the new Pipe moled in ??

I’m doing a refurb , the pressure on the old Lead was crap , I knew the majority of the ground under about 12” was clay and horrible to dig it out , so I got a Team in , they are registered with United Utilities our local supplier , they come out dig out about a metre square & deep at the Stop tap area & at the House entry point , install Pipe to the utility where I wanted the Pipe to come from the subfloor , fitted stop tap & drain off and connected up to the new Stop Tap that UU had fitted prior , then issued a Certificate and register it with UU all for £500

Worth considering imo

Phil

Mad price over here. let`s dig out

 

[Jonny Vee]

technical chap at BES advised on buying the rigid insulation with 35mm wall

https://www.bes.co.uk/shalloduct-wa..._ns6vD96ABR4WacXKqf_hQfecCcbKb3UaAvuREALw_wcB

Any idea how you bend and stick through the 90 degree rest bend?

 

[Jonny Vee]

Quick update. Anglia water only accept this insulation https://www.pipelagging.com/brands/...-waterproof-pipe-insulation-armaflex-tuffcoat

Now my question is. has any of you used it in the past. they only do 22 and 28mm. What would be best for my 25mm pipe? can I used the 28mm at least should slot in easily

Thanks

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I'd say it would have to be the 28mm, this will encase the pipe. 22mm will be stretched, and may leave a gap open down the length of the insulation as it's too tight to completely wrap the pipe.