Replacing Outer Skin of Bricks - Extension

[John Smith Esq.]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for advice please.

My bungalow includes a hideous early 70s extension. They used metric bricks instead of imperial, a non matching colour, a nasty cheap looking brick and the mortar joints are terrible. A lot of it is virtually sand that disintegrates if you run your finger along it.

Now, I could get the whole thing repointed. It'll still look rather ugly though. I could get it rendered although that has shortcomings as well. Rendering would technically need planning permission and even building certificate if more than 25% of the outer walls of the house, and this would be close. In any case, people will always wonder what is behind the render and I have concerns about the long term stability of such badly constructed walls.

Other option: replace the outer brick walls with new matching imperial bricks. A builder intrust has said he can do it for about £4K and it would take a week. Render would cost near 2K so could be worth it. The rubbish cavity insulation fluff can be replaced with proper insulation and the horrible fascia above the door can be replaced by bricks sat on a lintel. He would build up from just below the ground surface unless the existing bricks down there are in bad condition, in which case those would be replaced with concrete block. Existing wall ties will be used or new screw ones added. The flat roof will need to be propped as it partly rests on the outer bricks.

Is this feasible and worthwhile given proposed cost? I attach a photo - the long side of the extension goes back to the white gutter. It might not be obvious but close up the masonry is ****. Also, are Building Control going to be a pain?

https://i.ibb.co/x6q3bKC/20230414-191200.jpg

 

[jj4091]

If you decide to go down the render route then K-rend can be supplied in various colours and applied with different designs etched into it and might help you to decide.

 

[cdbe]

You might become liable for building control on the insulation aspect - a wider cavity would be required.

 

[John Smith Esq.]

You might become liable for building control on the insulation aspect - a wider cavity would be required.

I think it would be 50mm, would that call for a wider cavity?

This would mean it isn't worth doing as the walls would have to be pushed out, affecting the roof above for a start, and possibly needing planning. So might as well stick with poor insulation and substandard construction.

 

[aveatry]

It doesn't look that bad to me. But isf you start doing things like that would BC make you replace the flat roof with a pitch.

 

[Deluks]

Looks alright in the picture, the patio lets it down, spend your 4k there instead.

 

[Dereekoo]

If you are going down that line I would look into external insulating cladding, no idea of costs though.

 

[John Smith Esq.]

It is horrible closer up believe me. Doesn't match the house. Mortar is very sandy. Bricks are like a sponge when they get wet on them. Areas where bricks are wonky or courses of bricks seem to be at an angle and have big fat mortar beds. The brick layers must've been drunk and short on cement. Also, as stated, this presents an opportunity to improve insulation as well as appearance and structural soundness. It is a bad build and known by neighbours as a job that wasn't done well. I won't to make it better.

Exterior cladding introduces the problem of both planning and building control and is just covering up ****.

Here some close ups...

https://i.ibb.co/Nn3kMtH/20241012-163454.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6R06yKw/20241012-163451.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/44ppRQz/20241012-163421.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ygJhcwb/20241012-163416.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6R56vDB/20241012-163404.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/swSNG7R/20241012-163437.jpg

 

[^woody^]

What are your expectations? Can you really rely on your builder to meet them and do a better job?

And doing it in a week and for £4k is pushing it.

There will be a lot of preliminary work once the leaf is removed. Supporting the frames and damage to internal plaster included. And additional ties.

Building regulations would be required for the structure, damp prevention and insulation.

 

[John Smith Esq.]

What are your expectations? Can you really rely on your builder to meet them and do a better job?

And doing it in a week and for £4k is pushing it.

There will be a lot of preliminary work once the leaf is removed. Supporting the frames and damage to internal plaster included. And additional ties.

Building regulations would be required for the structure, damp prevention and insulation.

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

The builder is an experienced brick layer and general all rounder who has been in the business for 30 years. I think with better matching bricks and a professional build by him, it will look much better and be a more sound structure afterwards. Better insulated as well so a warmer room. Bricks above the patio door instead of the ugly plastic bodge currently there. Tied into the original house better. I think it will be 4K well spent compared to say 1800 on render that eventually needs replacing and doesn't provide much other improvement - also while technically need planning permission which would be another 300 quid down the drain.

In terms of the price and time. The extension has one long side and the other two sides don't have much wall to them. One dominated by the door and the other is only 1.3m long including a window.

I am concerned about the plasterwork inside. He says the roof would be propped up from the inside using acros and timbers. On at least one side the roof rests on the outer skin but could be propped up from outside as it is short. We have yet to find out if it is supported by the inner block work on the long side. If the roof is propped up internally I fail to see how the plasterboard (ceiling was overboarded) and plaster finish wouldn't be crushed under all the weight of the joists etc. He seems to think it will be ok based on having done it previously when removing walls etc.

I daydream sometimes about destroying the whole extension and starting again, that is how much I hate what a cheapo rubbish job it was. That said, it is still standing after 50 years and it is now a nice room inside. As I say, rendering seems a cover up job and potentially a pain. Cladding will look stupid. Repointing the whole thing and then coating the lot in storm guard would help with the appearance and waterproof it a bit, maybe even darken the bricks a little. Although I wouldn't trust the sandy mortar behind the repointed harder stuff (is this likely to course problems?) That would end up costing the best part of a grand though and it'd still look basically ****e.

 

[^woody^]

Flat roofs typically rest on the inner leaf, not the outer. However, propping does not crush or crack plaster, the roof is not that heavy.

You can get render that should be maintenence and painting free for 20 years or so. You can also get brick-effect render (not brick slips) and this could potentially be better matched to the existing walls.

 

[John Smith Esq.]

Flat roofs typically rest on the inner leaf, not the outer. However, propping does not crush or crack plaster, the roof is not that heavy.

You can get render that should be maintenence and painting free for 20 years or so. You can also get brick-effect render (not brick slips) and this could potentially be better matched to the existing walls.

Brick effect render would potentially get around the need for planning permission - if the appearance is similar. I'll have to look into that, sounds weird. Is it like wallpaper?

Do you know if repointing the outer 20mm with proper mortar cooling cause any issues if the inner mortar is weak, sandy garbage? Like making it all unbalanced somehow?

Thanks for feedback

 

[John Smith Esq.]

Builder has said we can fill the cavity with insulation batons. As the cavity is likely only 50mm (maybe even less), the insulation would fill the cavity but has a waterproof outer face. I don't like the idea of going from a cavity to a solid wall. How much can you depend on this form of insulation not to act as a moisture bridge? Is the waterproof face resistant to being torn?

 

[^woody^]

Full-fill batts are standard with no issues. The insulation has a water repellent in the fibre, not a waterproof face.

 

[John Smith Esq.]

Full-fill batts are standard with no issues. The insulation has a water repellent in the fibre, not a waterproof face.

How about breathability for humidity inside the building making its way out? Is there a brand of this stuff you can recommend and I could always give them a call. Building Control have also said a certain U value will need to be achieved, 55 of some unit of measurement. So I need to find out whether that will be achievable with 40mm or whatever of insulation...