It looks as if (as suggested by Robin earlier), if it can be confirmed by tests that the cable downstream of the red switch {which looks like 2.5mm²} gets adequate fault protection from the 32A MCB (or if that MCB is changed to a 20A one), all that probably needs to be done is to change the white socket to a cooker outlet plate - which would be a simple job.
Good point. I noticed that when I looked at the photo and then forgot about it. It would certainly be good to know where that other cable goes (not the least so it can be confirmed that it's safe) - there might even be a cooker outlet already hidden away somewhere!
As I said before, the main thing you couldn't do yourself would be the tests to confirm that the fault protection was satisfactory - so you would be 'gambling' if you undertook the work yourself. There is now also this extra question, as raised by EFLI, as to where that third cable from the red switch goes - do you have any idea? That really ought to be looked into, to make sure that it is safe.
True - although, as you say, if it ever was a potential problem/hazard, it still will be! However, far from being a problem, this might be a 'positive' for you. If that third wire goes to some currently hidden cooker output plate, there may be no work to be done at all, other than connect your new cooker to that plate.
The risk of what? - not confirming the adequacy of fault protection or not finding out where that third cable goes?
If it transpired that fault protection was inadequate, if a fault ever arose which resulted in the casing of your cooker becoming 'live' (hence obviously representing a potential risk to life and limb), the breaker in your consumer unit may not disconnect the electricity (to protect life/limb) as rapidly as the regulations require (or, in the worst case, at all).
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