I have to replace a GGL 606 glazing unit. Velux no longer do replacement glass for this window, nor do they longer do conversion kits for this. My local Glass shop have been able to supply me with a unit the correct size ( although the old unit is 3-9-3, I now have a 4-8-4 unit. I'm guessing that 1mm wont make any difference.. The guy in the shop advised that when they fit new glazing units to Velux they seal up with Silicon and don't use the Velux Butyl Seal as he said they've never had any issues just using LM/ Neutral cure Silicon. The Velux Butyl kit is upwards of £25. However, I have a good few rolls of Butyl tape (10mm x 3 mm) left over from a garage roofing replacement. If I double this Up to give 6mm thickness seal on Frame would this be ok ? The Velux supplied stuff comes in 2 thickness's 6.5mm and 4mm for the bottom cover. Any thoughts on this ??
Replacing Velux Glazing Unit
- Thread starter Mark 9002
- Start date
From memory I don't think there is any butyl tape on the frame side only the glass, only torx screws hold the folded aluminium down
1mm won't make any difference. I thought you meant you were going to pack the aluminium section up off the timber using butyl tape to make up the discrepancy in unit thickness?
When you buy the kit from velux they supply additional screws which are slightly longer than the ones you will remove to make sure you get a good connection when refitting the aluminium profiles.
Hello all
Remember me?. Its been a while but the Glazing replacement sealing kit arrived and there is a spell of good weather for a few days so decided to have a go at this today. However, I though before it took the window out I would see if the screws that hold the Aluminium strip down would give any problems. I only tried 2 screws and they snapped without hardly any pressure. I was only using a hand screw driver and attached picture is the result. Put the Job on hold just now cos I reckon all the screws are going the same way, and will have to come up with a contingency plan. Considering all screws are going to go the same way, and I wont be able to use the old Holes in the Aluminium fixing frame, I guess I am going to drill new holes close to the originals. I note that the frame holes are kinda shaped to take Bugle headed / countersunk screws. I was planning to fit Pan or button headed stainless steel screws in the newly drilled holes that I make so as to get a flat sealing face, instead of using counter sunk screws. Then either use Silicon or small hole punched pieces of flash band stuck over the old screw holes to seal them up.
Has anybody come across this screw breaking problem before ? Are there any better ways of getting round this. I'm pretty sure all screws are going to break
Remember me?. Its been a while but the Glazing replacement sealing kit arrived and there is a spell of good weather for a few days so decided to have a go at this today. However, I though before it took the window out I would see if the screws that hold the Aluminium strip down would give any problems. I only tried 2 screws and they snapped without hardly any pressure. I was only using a hand screw driver and attached picture is the result. Put the Job on hold just now cos I reckon all the screws are going the same way, and will have to come up with a contingency plan. Considering all screws are going to go the same way, and I wont be able to use the old Holes in the Aluminium fixing frame, I guess I am going to drill new holes close to the originals. I note that the frame holes are kinda shaped to take Bugle headed / countersunk screws. I was planning to fit Pan or button headed stainless steel screws in the newly drilled holes that I make so as to get a flat sealing face, instead of using counter sunk screws. Then either use Silicon or small hole punched pieces of flash band stuck over the old screw holes to seal them up.
Has anybody come across this screw breaking problem before ? Are there any better ways of getting round this. I'm pretty sure all screws are going to break
Attachments
Clean out the slot in the screw head first, then insert a red hot screwdriver, into the screw head, leave it long enough to transfer the heat, then maybe a squirt of releasing fluid, before tackling undoing with another driver.
The heat, will be even more effective in timber, than it would be in metal, because timber is much less of a heat conductor. Worth trying, to see if it works, and would save you a great deal of extra effort.
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