restoring old boiler, suitable sealant for heat exchange ?

In this case the heat exchanger is neither a gas carrying part nor a safety device and is therefore the least dangerous part for a DIYer to work on.

Tony

You got that wrong Tony Big Time

If the sections are not sealed, products of combustion can escape into the room
 
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I dont know who Mod 10 is as he does not identify himself!

Mod 10 is moderator 10, a site moderator who keeps the site safe for avid diyers, perhaps got carried away with deletions on reading a bit about rubber washers joining the halves together (above, now deleted) and just generally deleted bits and pieces that might be thought of as verging on the more challenging :) diy.

mark
 
I am fully in favour of not giving DIY advice on gas related matters. Its usually me who criticises others about this.

However, others give advice on renewing gas valves and safety devices. Some have even suggested bridging out overheat stats. The potential dangers of gas leaks and subsequent explosions are quite severe.

Any action by this MOD 10, who refuses to identify himself, should be totally consistent.

If MOD 10 is making judgements on safety matters then he should be qualified to do so, i.e. CORGI registered.

I do hope that he posts his reply before I access the forum tomorrow.

Since this DIYer seemed hell bent on doing his own repair its perhaps better that he has some appreciation on what might be involved.

The way this boiler is designed the flue draught would suck air in through the joints between the two halves !

Tony
 
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I was the one who posted advising the o/p about the difference between the flueway & waterway seals which is totally factual as anyone who has worked on these boilers would know. I do not consider the information I gave to be inappropiate but Mod10 obviously did as was his/her perogative. It would have been nice to have an explanation as to why then, perhaps, we could all be a little wiser.

A later post mentions asbestos rope and black boiler mastic (in strips) regretfully written by someone who has not worked on these boilers. That post is still being displayed.

In Tony's short lived post I do not recall seeing anything untoward.

It is a shame that other recent threads have not received the same inspection as this one as, in my mind, there are a few that should have been cut short very quickly but are still running.
 
I was the one who posted advising the o/p about the difference between the flueway & waterway seals which is totally factual as anyone who has worked on these boilers would know. I do not consider the information I gave to be inappropiate but Mod10 obviously did as was his/her perogative. It would have been nice to have an explanation as to why then, perhaps, we could all be a little wiser.

A later post mentions asbestos rope and black boiler mastic (in strips) regretfully written by someone who has not worked on these boilers. That post is still being displayed.

In Tony's short lived post I do not recall seeing anything untoward.

It is a shame that other recent threads have not received the same inspection as this one as, in my mind, there are a few that should have been cut short very quickly but are still running.

I have never had the pleasure of taken the sections to bits on an concorde WCF, and doubt very much if it would be cost affective labour wise anyway.

However, for what its worth I have worked on hundreds of the things, The collector hood is sealed with a bag of black boiler putty, manufactures part number 076350, B models 076356.
The cleaning cover is sealed with rope 13mm dia x 580 part number 052247, B models 052247.

Get your facts right before you try to blag it
 
I would welcome a stricter site policy of not giving ANY advice on gas carrying parts or safety devices and only general advice on fans, flues and combustion chambers.

However, in this case whilst the part concerned was part of the gas train its not a gas carrying part or a safety device.

Some comment has been made on rubber "O" ring and washer seals on HEs. Those who have done that are presumably not aware that most boilers use rubber seals on waterways on c.i. HEs. The Potty Suprima as a common example.

Anyone who understands this boiler's operation will know that the flue draught would suck air in through the combustion seals so its not such a critical component in this case. Of course as always any work on the gas train should only be done by a CORGI or a totally competent person working on the boiler in his own house.

I consider this deletion is totally inconsistent with other postings advising DIY work on gas pipes, gas valves and safety devices which are potentially able to cause gas explosions.

Since MOD 10 is unable to explain his actions in this case, I am asking Admin to comment on his site policy and why its not being applied consistently. I hope he decides to be stricter in future!

Tony
 
All fine words Tony, if the collector hood is not sealed then POC can enter the room/space, that to me is an safety issue.

AS for giving advice, that is what the forum is for.
DIYers will diy with or without your help, however you must appreciate that help and advice, even on gas related parts make them that much safer and more aware of any problems.

Until the law says they cannot do it, I shall continue to help where possible, If Admin or the mods decide to delete it afterwards then those posters will go elsewhere for information, I can be found on 4-5 other forums and I can also be contacted via my email, either way I will continue to give help and advice where necessary.
 
I agree John, but even if the collector hood is not fully seated then under normal operating conditions the flue draught will still suck POC up the flue.

I also agree that if an OP is hell bent on doing something himself then its better he does it from an informed standpoint which is why I made some general points.

However, neither of us have mentioned the most critical aspect in this case! He would need to do a flue flow and spillage test after reassembling the boiler and he probably has not got the skills to do that safely.

Thats the reason why I dont think that sites like this should be giving advice on repairs on gas or combustion related parts to the unqualified.

Tony
 
But the WCF could be an balanced flue or open vented.

Good or bad there was none of this complicated testing kit when they were made
 
The balanced flue version would make a hood seal less critical.

But it would then introduce boielr case seals as a critical factor to be checked and tested when the boiler is recommissioned.

Yet another aspect that the OP is probably not skilled to do properly.

Further reason not to encourage this type of DIY repair!

Tony
 
offers hand to shake emoticon to Doitall

Not a problem.

Excepted :cool:

Part of an boiler I normally work on, will show the assembled boiler when I find the pic.

boiler001.jpg


boiler.jpg
 

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