Riello RDB burning dirty
- Thread starter BenTens
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Tony, when a person knows what he is doing, a good look is all that is needed to effect a repair. It is not for the first time I have rescued a boiler from a skip to give it new lease of life. One does not need to see it working.
You, and to an extent I, can do that with boilers!
But I would not recommend that to a non boiler engineer.
Very often things being sold second hand on Ebay etc. are there because there is a reason. Often because of an obscure or serious fault.
A couple of weeks ago I saw an Icos beside a skip.
Although I removed the hanging loose mains filter because it is a good quality one, the rest of the boiler I left there!
But I would not recommend that to a non boiler engineer.
Very often things being sold second hand on Ebay etc. are there because there is a reason. Often because of an obscure or serious fault.
A couple of weeks ago I saw an Icos beside a skip.
Although I removed the hanging loose mains filter because it is a good quality one, the rest of the boiler I left there!
Still waiting for a reply about the flue configuration. If it is balanced flue, as most of the options seem to be, with a second hand boiler, the chances of getting a serviceable flue assembly are very low. A leak of the products of combustion into the combustion air duct will give you the same symptoms you have. Have you tried running the burner with the air tube removed?
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It is a balanced flue running horizontal right through the wall next to the boiler. Yes removing the air tube was one of the first things I tried, and it made no difference.
The restricter plates I am talking about are in the air box, which also made no difference, so I put them back in.
Thank you for replying.
If you run it without the air box on, just the fan open to the air, do you still get the same problem? If the blast tube is the problem, then you will still have high CO2. You may need to shield the intake with your hand to start the burner.
I half tried that. I took the airbox off, but the burner would not fire because of too much air, so I covered half of the hole left to the fan with my hand, and it fired up, but unfortunately I did not do a CO2 test after. I shut down the burner, because I was worried about damaging it.
So if it was still burning dirty with the air box off is it definitely the blast tube, or could there still be another fault?
If it burns clean with the air box of that would make me think it was the air box, but I have already replaced it, and it made no difference.
I am glad you have given me a way to test the blast tube now. Thank you.
How does the length of the blast tube effect the flame, or KW if the burner if you don't mind me asking? Thanks
The configuration of the blast tube alters the way in which the flame gets its primary and secondary air. The primary air is fed through the diffuser in the centre of the blast tube and is affected by its position frim the faceof the nozzle, and the secondary is delivered through channels around the edge. If there is too much restriction from the diffuser then you get incomplete combustion, and if there is insufficient air around the outside of the flame then it has a similar effect. On smaller burners, these values are fixed because of the narrowness of the effective appliance band. As an example, the Riello G% burner had a range of 3 fixed combustion heads which gave a range from 40,000 to 155,000 Bthu. It was also available with an adjustable blast tube which enabled the same burner to support an appliance of 250,000 Bthu.
By checking the specification with the appliance manufacturer or burner manufacturer. An experienced oil technician would be able to tell by looking.
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I have never seen a "Rhino" on my travels. Who makes them ??
If it has a snorkel, pierce it and insert probe and check for vitiated air.
If it has a snorkel, pierce it and insert probe and check for vitiated air.
I've never seen a Rhino, but have seen sales blurb. O.P has already run it without the snorkel and it is still smoking.
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