Roof Valley Issue

[Sonic70]

Hi All,

Had a leak from one of the valleys on our bungalow. Took a load of tiles off and couldn't see any water marks or wet apart from the batten which the grp Valley sits on was wet. I think the water is getting in through one of the nail holes here which penetrate the membrane below. It looks to me as if the roofer has cut the Valley tiles either side too short and so the cement under the tiles has no gap behind it for water that gets by to escape. I'm thinking of doing the repair myself, does anyone have any advice guidance on doing this. Do I need to put new grp valleys in? Plus the tiles either side will have to be redone to narrow the channel down the centre of the Valley.

 

[ree]

OP,
Why not post pics of the valley as it now is?
Pics of any other valleys wouldn't go amiss either?
Pics of the internal water damage would also help?

 

[Sonic70]

Ree because I'm not going back up to take pics in the dark lol I would of done pics earlier bit didn't think of posting on here till later. Will post pics in next few days. One of the rafters running down to meet the valley was wet underneath the edge of valley if that makes sense.

 

[Sonic70]

Water damage inside has dried out but it was a damp patch down the wall.

 

[noseall]

Hi All,

Had a leak from one of the valleys on our bungalow. Took a load of tiles off and couldn't see any water marks or wet apart from the batten which the grp Valley sits on was wet. I think the water is getting in through one of the nail holes here which penetrate the membrane below. It looks to me as if the roofer has cut the Valley tiles either side too short and so the cement under the tiles has no gap behind it for water that gets by to escape. I'm thinking of doing the repair myself, does anyone have any advice guidance on doing this. Do I need to put new grp valleys in? Plus the tiles either side will have to be redone to narrow the channel down the centre of the Valley.

Re-fit GRP dry valleys. You won't regret it.

 

[Sonic70]

 

[Sonic70]

All the pics I can manage at moment as roof still a bit slippy

 

[ree]

OP,
Is this the original valley you mentioned?
The edge pointing is failing but its hard to see it clearly? Plus a missing cut tile.
Otherwise it appears to be a well constructed valley with well cut tiles.
All the moss needs to be removed - it needs to be done manually.

Do you actually have a lead valley - if you clean off the moss & debris for 300mm from the valley pointing, & post a pic then things might be a little more clear?
No need to go on the roof - work at the bottom of the valley near the eaves..

Pics showing the valley & the wet jack rafter from below - & pics of the dried up water damage would help?

 

[Sonic70]

Noseall, I just want to get it through the winter at the moment, will look into dry valley in the summer. How easy are they to fit? Is there any change to the batten spacing below?

 

[Sonic70]

Ree this is the same valley mentioned at the beginning of this thread. Its defo a grp one. There is a cracked tile below lead, I just put that on temporarily until I fit a new one. Will post a pic of damage in loft tomorrow. Can't get to eaves as next doors lean to with a perspex roof is in the way. When I pulled some of the tiles off you could see that the mortar under the valley did not have a gap behind for water to get by, it was spilling over the edge of the grp.

 

[Sonic70]

There is definitely too wide a gap between the tiles down each side . If you zoom in too the tile with the lead you can see that the mortar and tile are back from the rib if the grp.

 

[ree]

OP,
My bad, I misread the early posts, & came away with the impression that you claimed to have a lead valley.
My monitor is v. poor on zooming detail but I think that I understand what you are saying - so when you next feel comfortable getting on the roof then remove some valley cuts & take a pic of what's exposed.

Dry valleys are the best option but without knowing how your valley rafter, valley boards & tile battens were originally fixed there's no hardly anyway of knowing if a dry valley will be almost a straight swap or a re-build of the valley boards & battens?