Roofing and sofit question

[Mick Leek]

Ok,

Roofer and any other interested people,

Here is what i DO NOT want to achieve with my roofing project

Note the ridge is all over the place and just look at the quality of the tiling and just look at the facia and sofit line near the drain pipe

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/niceroof.jpg
www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/niceroof2.jpg
www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/flashing.jpg

the more i look at the pictures the more faults i find... Lets have a spot the crap workmanship competition

 

[mnb]

mick,1. yes, for the abutment flashing use a 9" angle grinder and cut a straight cut for the cover flashing 1.5m x 75mm upstand and soakers with 75mm upstand and 100mm flat min.
2. why not construct a built- in double porch?
3 use copper nails on lead sheet and in the lead valley, set a double row of cu. nails at the top of each length , they will be concealed by the overlap.
4. British Lead Mills and Cooksons have lead literature.
5. dont use secret gutterings or close valleys they store up future problems. Make sure that your valley flashing comes down into your guttering ie not like on the photos you show of bad work.
666. dont burn any treated timber it's poisonous.
7. is there a WC in the extn?
8. the upper vent bit of the stack can be cut and replaced with plastic.
this option would allow you to make good the existing roof breakthrough by goose-necking aroung the eaves. Whatever, flashing a CI stack at extn roof is roughly the same as flashing it at the main roof - have a look.
Flashband can be used to seal around the CI pipe as a cover flashing.
9. check the condition of the gable gutterings and gable roof tiles before tiling the extn. If you move the RWP then make the gutter(s) to new falls to the new outlet(s).
10. do any reqd. painting or maintenance now before tiling.
11. if you move the stairwell window do it now. BCO should allow you to chase in the flashing just below that window cill rather than raise the frame.
13. as a temporary weatherproofing why not spread visqueen on the rafters and set it with a few battens.

I'd be interested in seeing a plan view of your extn and why the over-build of the rafters? Also is that a solid block wall? Could you detail how you've spent £6000 so far on mats?
For what it's worth, do not start work on a conservatory or anything else before totally finishing this extn ie. to decoration and a couple of weeks in-use at least. If you've got a partner discuss the new work before starting,they might be fed up of building work and i've seen a number of couple difficulties due to diy/building work traumas. I noticed that you originally snapped at stan, could be a sign of diy fatigue and frustration - dont discount it.

 

[masona]

3 use copper nails on lead sheet and in the lead valley, set a double row of cu. nails at the top of each length , they will be concealed by the overlap.

I didn't think you could use nails on lead to allow for expansion?

 

[Mick Leek]

mnb

Thank you VERY much for all the info.

The 6k to date has been everything as in planning permision fees, building reg's fees, Inspection fees, Hiring man and digger and carting away 116 tonnes of earth from site. We had 6 x 20 tonne tipper visits to move excess earth... the surounding gardens were just short of a meter higher than the rest so it was a lot of work to level up everything.

price also includes all materials, concrete for footings and slab, all new underground drains, timber and all tiles for roof... only thing i havent purchased as yet is the roof membrane, and the soffit and eves plastics along with the new gutters.

The 6 k also includes all the materials ready for the conservatory dwarf walls Bricks, blocks etc. conservatory is going to be a big one 26 feet by 18..

why you interested in the cost ? do you think it is too much ??? Yes i did snap a bit at stan not a sign of fatigue with the work on the house just help wanted and i had a bad day.. nothing to do with house just one of those days..

Cheers,
Mick
PS what is a SOAKER ?

 

[Nige F]

3 use copper nails on lead sheet and in the lead valley, set a double row of cu. nails at the top of each length , they will be concealed by the overlap.

I didn't think you could use nails on lead to allow for expansion?

Hi, Masona, `tis correct.......just @ the top of the sheet to secure it in this application..pehaps you`ve seen (like I have) nails popping out of sheets over small bay windows etc.....There are correct ways of holding edges down Ps. Copper is used to minimise the risk of electrolytic action between the 2 metals.......while I`m here.a soaker is a small piece of lead bent to 90 degrees that weathers in with the tiles when they abut a vertical wall/chimney.or possibly on hips when slated......

 

[mnb]

mick,
still some questions left from original post and some new if you want to answer.
1. whats the purpose of the extn?
2. do the floor levels match up - extn and main house? Are you blocking ventilation to the main sub-area?
3. is there a knock-thro?
5. how are you going to insulate and ventilate the extn. roof?
6. as suggested your lead work is best done by a professional.

Glad that i was wrong about the work fatigue business. I get quite a bit wrong. These other guys have some excellent in-put. i notice and learn from them.
The costs seem fine, just curious.Like people have said your job is great.

 

[Mick Leek]

mnb

We sold the house in January 2005 and were planning to move. We then looked around for an house with a little more room... I wasnt prepared to pay £220,000 for an house with half the gardens we already had so we decided to extend. Kids growing up now and we needed a bit more room. We had planned to do a 2 storey extension but our plans were objected by the next door neighbour. she objected on the grounds that she is disabled and can only sit outside her kitchen door, (situated directly opposite the new extension to the side) The new extension would have cast a shadow from 10.00am in the morning till 7.30 in the evening and there fore she would not be able to sit in the sun..

And YES beleive it or not, her objections were upheld and our plans were rejected. We then decided to still do something, hence the single storey. We are making the new front room 11feet by 18 into an entertainment/ chillout room for the kids. plasma screen and all that kind of stuff. The rear smaller part 10x10 will be the utility room. It has meant we can move all the washer and dryer out of the kitchen to make more room. As well as doing the extension, we have totally modernised the entire house right down to knocking the plaster to bare brick, new kitchen and so on. ALL the work and i do mean ALL has been done by myself and the wife. plastering, fitting new ceilings, kitchen, all done by ourselves.

Take a look

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/house.php

The floor levels are spot on. I made sure of this. Last thing i wanted was to step either up or down.

There is a knock through. If you look at the kitchen picture you can see new door way there into utility room (boarded up at moment). There will be another into the new room once it is secure, as in has windows, roof and so on.

breathable membrane along with soffit vent for ventilation. insulated with 150mm of glass woll between rafters then another 100mm laid cross ways to give the 10" requirement.

cant give up now and let someone do the lead work.... I will have a go and see how i go... hoping to start this saturday if the weather is ok going for the lead now and then i will fit the soffits and so on ...


Thanks all,

Mick

 

[Nige F]

mick,
still some questions

I get quite a bit wrong. These other guys have some excellent in-put. i notice and learn from them.
.

I taught my son all I know and he still knows nothing

 

[SstammeringStanTheRoofer]

Stammering stan, I have fitted the soffit returns today and squared up the hips so they no longer stick below the soffit line. I was planning to do this before you mentioned it just getting time. Did you have a good time the other night ?

yeh, sound, had a couple for you, finished off with a couple of large Jamesons, mmmmmmmmm,

 

[Mick Leek]

Yipee,

Hi stan,

I thought you had fallen out with me.... You couldnt imagine the flack i have received when i lost my rag with you.... I think there may even be a STAN THE MAN fan club now


Mick...

 

[Nige F]

Sssure is a fffffffing fffan club

 

[SstammeringStanTheRoofer]

I thought you had fallen out with me.... You couldnt imagine the flack i have received when i lost my rag with you.... I think there may even be a STAN THE MAN fan club now.

aarrree shucks man......I'm ffff....filling uu...p

I jj..just wondered how yy....you cut the tt..top bevelled cuts on tt...the jj..jacks?

me, I jj....just mm...mark the pp...plumb cut on ss..side of jack - set ss...skil saw to 45deg' and away yy...you go!

Good ll..luck for the rr...remainder of ppp....project

 

[empip]

Looking good Mick !

Just a little thing, is there any relevance in this :-
http://www.buildingtalk.com/news/cav/cav111.html
More here
http://www.lpg-portable-heaters.co.uk/conservatory/cavity_tray.htm

Good luck.

 

[Mick Leek]

empip

Dont worry that is the next job doing this weekend... i was unsure how to judge where the tray wanted to go so i waited till i had done the roof timbers. I am planning to remove 3 bricks at a time then leave three and so on. do job in two days "fingers crossed" install lead rather than plastic one.

I have decided not to simply cut into the render.. I want to ensure once it is done, then that will be it for ever. Last thing i want is to have to start messing around later to fix problems that should have been done at start.

 

[mnb]

mick,
Dont use lead to bridge the cavity ,it will slump in time and defeat the purose. Use the correct custom items. it can be tricky doing stepped trays.
The cutting advice is to cut approx. 15 - 22mm into the brickwork not just the render. If you go your route then use a small angle grinder to neatly undercut along the beds - dont go overboard knocking off render.
Behind the S&V stack use the flashing as a back gutter - like at the roof
stack or chimney.
Remember to work from low to high with flashing.