Router

[Paul-man]

I'm surprised there is no off the shelf solution


-What is a planted stop?

No of the shelf solution,well there are quite a few solutiones
1 fix a standard door liner flush with the opening side and plaster the reveales
2 fix a standard door liner flush with the opening side and fit a wooden reveals finished of witharchitraves on the other side
3fit a slimmer liner either side of the opening a wooden panel bridges the two doubling up as door stop,georgian style would be panelled
4the method you have chosen
planted door stop is usually1 1/4x9/16 finish,applied to the door liner after the door is hung,as a door stop ,
3" door hinges could be a bit small ,it all depends on the patern and weight of the door
Guiding the router in nearly all occasiones the router travels from left to right ,I would suggest using the router with the switch in the right hand,cord over your shoulder tokeep it out of the way,
sockets for the hinges ,in a MDF frame the use of a router with a straight fluted cutter is essential,due to the difficulty chiseling ,make the sockets for the hinge pre construction of frame for the obvous reason's
Depth of socket,measurment across the hinge flap's while parallel minus thickness of a two pence piece,divided by two
jig's for hinges,no need just free hand and finish off with sharp chisel,trial and error on scrap would be prudent

Thanks again.

Regarding the alternatives- I have already tried solution 1 - the door is hanging there right now on a Wickes liner, but I'm unhappy with the look of it. I have used some plasterboard (temporarily to stop draughts in the cavity) in the reveals and it looks pretty bad as the lip between the plasterboard and the liner is so small.

I'll take some befores and afters in case anyone is interested in how it turns out!

One other quick question. I'm having a 15mm Engineered Oak floor laid, probably on top of some Low Tog underlay. (normally about 5mm) Should I leave 20-22 mm gap under the legs of the door liner and tuck the flooring under it, or take the door liner to the floor and lay the floor around it? The same flooring will be laid both sides of the doorway, but with a threshold strip for expansion or in case we change one room in the future.

 

[big-all]

cutting on the outside off a circle its anticlockwise inside off a circle is clockwise
or in other words work in front off you rout left to right on the edge facing you right to left along the back edge
the cutters rotate clockwise and "hook" into the wood
if you try and router the wrong way the router can "run away" from you

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

One other quick question. I'm having a 15mm Engineered Oak floor laid, probably on top of some Low Tog underlay. (normally about 5mm) Should I leave 20-22 mm gap under the legs of the door liner and tuck the flooring under it, or take the door liner to the floor and lay the floor around it? The same flooring will be laid both sides of the doorway, but with a threshold strip for expansion or in case we change one room in the future.[/quote]

The threshold option makes for good finish and cancels a miriad of unseen problems leave a gap under the frame it also saves on later problems but if you don't its not the end of the world.

 

[pinenot]

If you look at this nomenclature link - http://autonopedia.org/buildings_and_shelter/Rural_Building/Door_and_Window_Frames.html

it might help you.

the advice you've been given so far should also help

good luck