Scanny 9752 and belle bell box

[chaindaisy]

Hi,

You've done really well, I still haven't had a chance to look at your diagram - I'll have a glance later. Well, the current consumption appears to be within range, Your panel current, does that include trickle charge ? You should be able to get away with that, I am not in any way knocking you but I feel that the total current should be somewhere in the region of say 750 milliamps for both the psu and panel respectively - but that is just the way I prefer it, others would disagree no doubt. I think if you retain the existing setup, you should ensure that the standby batteries are always at their peak - but I reckon you've already thought of that. I'll look at your diagram later - looking forward to it.

Well done.

 

[unclebob1]

The numbers are from manuals, rather then actual measurements, So not sure about the trickle charge, but i would assume that scantronic's would have included that in their values (maybe wrong!?)

Tried to balance it as much as possible, whilst still ensuring that the main unit would work completely if the psu was taken out - hence the sirens are all on the psu, with just the single bell on the main panel. If i need to remove the psu, ill stick the second bell in SCB and wire it onto the panel, and take out the twin alerts.

Like wise if i need to add further power consuming items, i can set the second bell to SCB and run power from psu.

The main control panel battery is new with the panel - about 2 -3 months, and the psu battery came out of my old 9448 - panel was about 9 years old, but battery was replaced jan just gone - so about 10 months old.

 

[chaindaisy]

Hi,

I'm wondering if you need a seperate relay. I appreciate that there are relays on board the panel, but these, although cold contact, are nonetheless using a negative trip for all sounders (I believe !) . I could be wrong since I still haven't looked at your diagram and the panel specs.

 

[TheAlarmMan]

Your current values are too near the limit for my liking, 950ma + from a 1A supply is pushing your luck. Your maximum draw should be no more than 75% of the available supply. Remember the current values from the spec are bench values, real values should be taken, long runs of cable will increase the current load, by only a few ma here and there soon add up.

As chaindaisy has suggested, drawing that amount of current through the panel relay will sooner or later make it fail, use the on board relay to trigger an external relay module, if the external one fails it's a cheap replacement.

Also I'd uprate your battery capacities the one you had in the 9448 was that a 2.1aH? 7aH is the minimum.

 

[chaindaisy]

Yes, I think we are both agreed on that, Alarm man. I pointed out in an earlier post that we would prefer to be nearer the 750 milliamp mark if not less. I was just getting back to Uncle Bill after finally looking at his diagram and saw your post. The three outputs are rated in total at 500 milliamps, and that's provided we have 500 milliamps spare. I can't see categorically that the psu is actually powering the sounders when activated. It appears that each is tripped by the panel. As mentioned previously, and I'm sure you would agree, the use of a seperate relay and possibly putting one or two on SCB rather than SAB would go a distance toward resolving the problem. Specs indicate 500 mA available for AUX and 500 mA available for OP's 1,2 and three, which, as we both know is the total amperage of the panel anyway... and that's without anything else. We'll see what Uncle Bob has to say.

Take Care

 

[Europlex]

Why do people come here, ask for advise then argue about it.

I really can't get my head around all this playing with a few ma here and a few ma there.

I've always worked on 500ma, or less, all ok, any more than 500ma, additional PSU required, I very rarely have problems with power.

Ok so some bright spark is going to ask, what about 510ma - Already Answered

If in the situation of say the 510ma as mentioned, and any other where an additional PSU is required I also rewire to split the load more evenly between the PSUs / PSU / Panel.

Coupled with up to date PMVs and Batts religiously replaced at 5yrs or before if required, including replacing if the next PMV is after the date specified on the battery.

unclebob1

I'd suggest by looking at your "The main panel is powering: " post, that you require 2xPSUs and to split everything correctly.

But there again who am I to tell you what to do?

See above.

 

[chaindaisy]

Ideally, Europlex, your 2 psu's is the obvious answer to the problem. Your benchmark of 500 milliamps max is ideal as far as I'm concerned. Uncle bob would still require separate relays other than those on board, as explained by myself earlier, you are obviously aware of this. Perhaps the main point I am not really getting has nothing to do with current at all. It is simply, why is there a need for so many sounders ?

Take Care

 

[unclebob1]

Apologies for the delay in response!

The layout and soundproofing in the house makes it difficult or impossible to hear either the external sirens or keypad sounders in some of the rooms, and given the fire alarm also runs off the system I would rather have the extra sounders inside to ensure occupants are aware should the worst happen.

Externally, similar problem, shape of the house means sounder can only be heard in small areas, having two means its most likely to be heard in a greater region, and more importantly, to be heard by my partially deaf neighbor who would be ringing me or the police should something suspicious be going on - as was the case when i was broken into back in Feb.

I'll change the second Bell to SCB, which should knock off approx 480mA off the psu, and then re-balance between the two boxes. ( I am aware that it will still draw power to charge the battery etc)

This would give me approx 650mA on both the control panel and another 650mA on the PSU. Little more then the 500, but less then the 750mA

 

[TheAlarmMan]

Sounds good to me.

 

[chaindaisy]

Is there an updated diagram that we can have a look at ?

 

[unclebob1]

Is there an updated diagram that we can have a look at ?

Not as yet, the diagram from above wont change much, only thing will be to add a relay in before the blue wires. Changing to SCB from SAB will be just a jumper change in the bell box itself.

The diagram above doesn't show the PIR's etc, it was just for me to get my head around the wiring of the four devices.

 

[chaindaisy]

You obviously know this but, if you are using two sounders from the same output with one as scb and the other as sab then the tamper must loop through both.

 

[unclebob1]

You obviously know this but, if you are using two sounders from the same output with one as scb and the other as sab then the tamper must loop through both.

Using two sounders should have tamper loop through both anyway should it not? (Regardless of SAB/SCB settings on both). Thats how its been wired at present (see diagram!)

My understanding is that SAB uses power from the control panel to power the siren and strobe, SCB uses the internal battery to power the siren and strobe...

If this is incorrect let me know!

 

[chaindaisy]

You've done well Uncle Bob. Obviously know what you're talking about.