scratch then top coat day after

[Mick Leek]

Hi JB,

I used the plastic bell cast Never again, i found it VERY difficult to get on straight. I wish i would have used galvanised now...

I will go out right now and do it I dont think it runs up as much as it looks... it more because i have missed a bit of the scratch on the right so it looks ****ed. Or at least i think so .. Sod it going now to sort before it goes too dark

Cheers JB... i have heard of acid cleaner for bricks but doesnt that attack the cement in the motor as well ? I will have a surf around and see if i can find something

Mick

Edit:::

that better

 

[jbonding]

a lot

 

[Mick Leek]

Good,

While your here, a quick question. I did the scratch mix as follows

5 parts sand
1 part hydrated lime
1 part cement
with water proofer added

Now i know the top coat should be a weaker mix, do i make it 6 sand ?

Thanks JB,

If we ever meet, i will buy you a keg of beer

 

[jbonding]

yep you will be sound with 6-1-1 maybe an extra shovel of cement at the end of each mix

 

[Mick Leek]

Cheers JB,

an extra shovel of cement at the end of each mix... You mean the old northern saying "One for the pot"

 

[jbonding]

or good luck

 

[Mick Leek]

Hi JB

Just an update for you. I didnt do the top coat on Sunday. The weather looked like it was going to throw it down, but later in the morning it was VERY sunny Then again maybe the sun would have dried it out too quickly.

Anyway, I followed the JB rules on how to prepare, mix and apply lime render and here is the result... Please dont laugh, i know it probably isnt up to your standards, but i decided on a smooth finish so rubbed up instead of dashing..

What you think ???

I think it will look ok once i clean the bricks and slap a bit of paint on ...

I have decided that i will do the rest of the house in a smooth finish also.. Did you say i dont need to scratch the exsisting render has it is roughcast ? think that is the name.. Looks like stones mixed in the cement then thrown on... deffinatly isnt just stones thrown on. Something has been added ..

Thanks again JB

Mick.

 

[jbonding]

looks like a nice job mick even go as far as saying it looks spot on i would scratch the render this will reduce cracking and even out the suction for the top coat maybe scratch 4-1-1 and throw in one for good luck

 

[jbonding]

have you thought of tyrolean?

 

[Mick Leek]

Yes had thought of tyrolean. BUT i heard it was very difficult to apply and also VERY VERY messy....

So you WOULD apply a scratch coat over the originall render then a top coat ? I was hoping i would get away with just putting on a thickish topcoat.. Oh well looks like ill order a bit more sand then...

Tell you what JB, My plastering and brick laying skills are getting better. Had lots of practice recently with doing my sister in laws house as well as my own

Here just look at this.....

There WAS a door way there 3 days ago all gone now... There is a lovely shene on that wall now and all thanks to your guidence... The orange bit you can see on the top picture is the colour the walls WERE painted

Cheers mate....

 

[Uk Robert]

Been looking at this site for a couple of days now and it has been very interesting source of info.
That rendering looks to be the finish I hope to get! In the past I`ve been quite successful at plastering, not perfect, but reasonably good for my own bungalow. However I`m now attempting to render and I`m quite impressed with your results Mick!
I`ve got a couple of qustions though:

1) I was going to use 3-1 mix for the top coat with no lime. What does the lime do?

2) I`ve put my angle beads on using both dry-wall adhesive and bonding plaster and they have set rock-hard now. I have bought lots of metal lathe to put against the smooth concrete exterior blockwork but I`m having difficulty attaching it to the blocks. Galvanised staples were either crumbling the block or bending. Masonry nails do not have a big enough head to nip-up over the mesh, so do I bond that to the blockwork as well?
What would you do?!

 

[Mick Leek]

UK,

I feel quite chuffed that you are asking ME how to do it

The lime makes the render more flexible once hardned. This reduces the risk of cracks due to expansion and contraction... its a must that you add lime...

I used Plastic bellcast beeds BUT galvanised corners... Mainly due to the fact that they didnt have plastic ones in stock... I have to say though that i found the plastic ones a nightmare to attach to the wall and keep level...

I used plastic raw plugs, and stainless steel screws and washers... I know OTT but its my own house... The corner beeds i ALSO attached with a few spots of drywall adhesive... Not sure if your meant to on the exterior but it is only a few spots

I didnt use Lathe, just rendered straight to the concrete blocks...

DONT forget the waterproofer ....

EDIT:::

Just read the bit about the 3 to 1 mix for top coat .... Deffinate NO NO way too strong... your top coat should be weaker than your scratch coat.. I used 6 sand, 1 cement, and 1 lime

 

[Uk Robert]

So, 6-1 top coat mix with lime added, is that not a bit weak?. Some of my friends say not to use waterproofer in the top coat and some people say in scratch coat only.....I`m getting confused!!
I`m looking to start rendering one evening during this week but getting info out of the local builders merchant is like getting hold of top-secret information!

 

[Mick Leek]

UK,

I also had the problems with differing people saying differing things. In the end, i decided to listen to one guy (J Bonding)

He has been VERY helpful with me.. The topcoat was done yesterday, i checked this morning and it is has hard as nails. (6.1.1 mix)

If you make it too strong i beleive you run risk of the topcoat pulling off the base coat and also cracks...

If you think about it, the waterproofer needs to be in the top coat to avoid the risk of water entering the top coat and then freezing on a cold night,
I can only assume that if that should happen then the render will be blown... but i am not 100% on that... I'm sure JB will correct me if i'm wrong.

I put waterproofer in both scratch and top coat, but because i rubbed it up, it leaves the top surface slightly porus..

I'm VERY happy with the results i have got but i suppose only time will tell if i have done it correctly... I have given it the old knock test, and it sounds very solid, i havent come across an hollow sounding bit's yet so im an happy chappy...

Good luck mate i hope you achieve what you are looking for.... if i can help any more, please ask...

Regards,

Mick

 

[keyplayer]

Looking great in and out Mick Leek. Have you bought a pair of stilts?